Time for Some 2015 185RB Baja Repairs & Upgrades

[MrKABC]

Originally Posted by Bob K

The trip was successful! No water leaks from all of the changes. With the skirt in place and the other little changes I made, I had no concerns with freezing lines down into the high teens or low 20s. Remote thermometers in key places never dipped below 40°. The two Battleborn batteries had no problem powering the furnace--set at 60°--for a full 4 days without solar recharging. It looks like I used about half of the 30lb propane tank. Now to get out into a bit colder temps here in the West and see how things fare.

Some future desires:

• A battery monitor to watch battery usage and capacity
• Switching to a ventless propane heater (like a Buddy Heater) during the day to cut down on the furnace noise and use of the inefficient furnace
• Adding a quick connect for the ventless propane heater
• Getting the Honewell digital furnace thermostat to only cycle 1 or 2 times per hour (like I've set it) instead of every 10 minutes.

Following along your adventures! Wow - good tip on the breakaway switch.

I've been lazy about installing the box like yours (it's sitting on my workbench) and heading out to the desert tomorrow so getting it done isn't likely this time.

The LiPo batteries were a success even though you couldn't fully charge them?

[Bob K]

Originally Posted by MrKABC

Wow - good tip on the breakaway switch. The LiPo batteries were a success even though you couldn't fully charge them?

I made another boneheaded mistake by attaching a ground wire to the left turn/brake light stud in the junction box, which defeated some lights and the trailer brakes. Took me some time to fix that stupid mistake before I departed. Moral of the story for me? Slow down and be more precise.


I fully charged the batteries using the Victron charger before leaving on the trip. Had I been smart when I returned home, I would have left the trailer's charge controller unplugged and just used the Victron charger to recharge the batteries so that I could have seen how many amp-hours I needed to put back into the batteries. Next time!

[Bob K]

Originally Posted by Bob K

Anyone know where to find the trim that goes around the edge of the metal frame? Mine, as you can see, is nasty, brown, and brittle.
Attachment 60957

I found the replacement trim. Looks to be pretty universal stuff and a quick fix for a better seal.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007HRN4N4

[Bob K]

I drain the hot water tank often when traveling in the cold season.

I discovered that my low point drains will also drain the hot water tank; however, I also wanted a convenient way to drain just the tank without needing to get tools out to remove the drain plug, so I installed a ball valve.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GWBK57V


"But Bob, that's an Atwood aluminum tank and you put in a stainless steel ball valve. Aren't you worried about galvanic corrosion?"

I'm going to take one for the team here and do a little experiment. SS316 and aluminum are only .5 volts apart on the anodic index, and this isn't salt water. Additionally, the aluminum tank is a huge anode as compared to the in-contact portion of the relatively tiny stainless steel valve (cathode). I'm going to check the tank, tank threads, and valve at regular intervals to see just how much galvanic corrosion is actually taking place. My hypothesis is that the tank and valve will long outlast the rest of the trailer. I'm ready for the little experiment to prove me right or wrong.

[Bob K]

I asked my father to weld some metal supports on the bumper so that I can carry a bike rack with more confidence.

They're across the seams from the frame to the bumper so the weld that's normally experiencing the torque (and prone to fail) is reinforced while the weld on the bottom is kept in compression.




A Curt heavy duty receiver holds the bike rack.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007M1ZGE

I followed behind my wife to observe how bouncy the back end is while traveling over common roads and thankfully I'm not seeing any more bounce or movement in the bike rack than I see when it's on the back of the car. The Kuat NV2 is a beast of a bike rack.

[Bob K]

Jayco builders left straps loose on the black tank and the grey tank. There are 4 total--2 across each tank--and 2 of them were essentially doing nothing.

I drilled new holes, tightened up the straps, and snipped off all the excess strap. Also took the opportunity to replace the rusty, stripped Phillips head screws with stainless hex head screws.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BP4G6DJ

Good chance to clean out 6 year's worth of dirt on top of the Coroplast, too.

[Bob K]

No matter what I do, I can't keep the propane lit on the refrigerator while underway, so I can't keep the fridge cold. That has become a big problem for multi-day trips where we might be driving 4-6 hours per day. To solve this problem, I installed a Victron DC to DC charger so that I can run the refrigerator AC circuit off of a small DC to AC inverter while keeping the batteries charged by the tow vehicle. Thankfully, my converter is on a different circuit than my fridge receptacle, so I can turn off the AC breaker for the converter (to stop the "charging loop") and just connect my DC to AC inverter directly to my shore power cord. That'll save me from having to do deeper electrical work to power just the fridge AC receptacle.

The Victron DC to DC charger will put up to 30 amps DC into my batteries. The fridge draws 1.8 amps AC which translates to 19.8 amps DC after the DC to AC conversion through the inverter. Here's the calculator I used: https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/tool...-inverter.html

I used abuncha new products for this install:
The Victron DC to DC charger: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZKG396Y

The portable inverter will be connected directly to the battery busbars via the "charging port" I installed on the basement wall. It'll get used for other small appliances like a coffee grinder, too: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086SSRRZ7


I ditched the fuses and went with circuit breakers for this install: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BHNQT28

• 30 amp for the original DC circuit up to the junction box on the front frame (matches the original fusing) which powers the DC side of the RV.
• 60 amp for each end of the DC to DC charger (as specified by the install instructions)
• 100 amp for the main battery cutoff switch. Why only 100 amps? The total theoretical simultaneous amperage that could be taken out of the batteries is only 76 amps for my setup (the RV's original 30 amp DC system plus the extra 46 amps max from my new 500W portable inverter). The theoretical simultaneous maximum that could be put into the batteries from all charging sources for my setup--existing onboard converter/charger, separate Victron lithium charger, solar panel, and Victron DC to DC charger--is only 80 amps. Only if I were forgetful would I have all of those charging sources connected at once, so total input amperage will be well below 100 amps during normal use.

Busbars: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C6483RC


4 AWG wire is good for 100 amps of critical voltage up to 10 feet, so 4 AWG wires make the parallel connections between the batteries. I also used 4 AWG for the main lines from the batteries through the Victron SmartShunt and main battery cutoff circuit breaker to the busbars. I was really impressed with the thickness of the copper lugs in this kit for use with my 4 AWG wires. 6 AWG covered the DC to DC charger circuit (as specified by the install instructions).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082QYW64M
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MY9QVRI
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0161Z7W4Y
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0856PHNLX


By the way, these truss head screws are da' bomb for attaching anything to the thin paneling (such as a backer board) or for replacing pulled staples. They're crazy sharp so they don't mushroom out the paneling as much as other screws, and the truss head pushes down any mushrooming while distributing the holding force across a wider area: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ZPF0I

The 6 AWG wire from the TV will go through Anderson style plugs and through one of the conduit holes in the front frame. From there it follows existing wire up through the floor next to the freshwater tank drain. As you can see, despite prepping and painting the front frame with Rustoleum Rust Reformer and topcoat last year, I'm really having a hard time with rust. I have some POR-15 on tap to do a brush-on job at some point in the future.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H4JPC6Z



This was a fun project and I'll take all the public feedback I can get! I think I got this all correct but if you see issues, please tell me. Last thing I want to do is fry something. Since some of the connections--such as the positive post on the left battery and the negative posts on the SmartShunt--are rather close together, I'm currently searching for battery post covers for all 4 battery posts and for the SmartShunt posts.


None of these links are "affiliate links" or anything similar. Amazon just happens to be where I got most of the stuff because I needed quick delivery and there's almost zero chance of getting most of this locally.

[Bob K]

I noticed that my bike rack and bicycles completely blocked the existing tail lights. Doh! The OEM Commander tail lights were getting rather hazy and wimpy anyway, so I decided to replace them with LEDs and install a couple of new tail lights higher up.


I checked first with fishing tape to make sure I could actually get new wires up to the new location before I drilled any new holes. Then I fished new wire up behind the aluminum siding and used stainless sheet metal screws for installation. I couldn't find stranded THHW (i.e. residential) wire for the life of me to match the existing wiring. Plus, most of the "automotive wiring" out there is cheap copper plated aluminum, so I used a silicone sheathed pure copper wire instead. The Partsam tail light screw hole pattern matches the existing Commander tail light pattern perfectly so they're an exact replacement for existing tail lights.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089CRKSNN
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0816FKS3D


As expected, they're crazy bright as compared to the original incandescent lights. I'm not experiencing any blinker or sensor problems on my 2017 Tacoma as a result of the decreased load. I'll be replacing the marker lights with Partsam LEDs as well at some point in the future.

[deepsea5]

Originally Posted by Bob K

I drain the hot water tank often when traveling in the cold season.

I discovered that my low point drains will also drain the hot water tank; however, I also wanted a convenient way to drain just the tank without needing to get tools out to remove the drain plug, so I installed a ball valve.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GWBK57V
Attachment 65331

"But Bob, that's an Atwood aluminum tank and you put in a stainless steel ball valve. Aren't you worried about galvanic corrosion?"

I'm going to take one for the team here and do a little experiment. SS316 and aluminum are only .5 volts apart on the anodic index, and this isn't salt water. Additionally, the aluminum tank is a huge anode as compared to the in-contact portion of the relatively tiny stainless steel valve (cathode). I'm going to check the tank, tank threads, and valve at regular intervals to see just how much galvanic corrosion is actually taking place. My hypothesis is that the tank and valve will long outlast the rest of the trailer. I'm ready for the little experiment to prove me right or wrong.

Bob K: thank you for posting this mod. I just installed the same valve on my water heater. Very easy install. Found it helpful to remove the valve petcock handle while installing.
FWIW: the Cessna 172 airplane (on Edo floats) I used to own had stainless steel screws and fasteners. The airframe was aluminum. I never had any problems with dissimilar metal corrosion. I assume that the Federal Aviation Administration would ban the use of those screws/fasteners if they were not compatible.

[Bob K]

After last year's drainage problems with the Danby side-mount air conditioner, I thought I was good to go. Unfortunately, this year it looks like the drain hole from the bottom of the A/C down into the drip tray got clogged. The A/C fan sloshed through the built-up water and made quite a racket.


I could use compressed air to blow out the excess water, but despite using compressed air, a flat blade tool, and water under pressure between the drip pan and the A/C, I couldn't unclog the drain. Water just built up again and wouldn't drain out via the drain pan. Danby was of no use. Said that unit doesn't have a drain hole and didn't respond to my follow-up questions.


I thought about uninstalling the entire A/C unit to clean out the drain hole, but that would ruin my Eternabond tape job and there was no guarantee I wouldn't run into the same problem: A clogged, very-difficult-to-reach drain hole. I decided instead to create new drain holes in the A/C box. I used a pencil grinder with a carbide burr to drill two holes--approx. 3/16". The refrigerant tubes are about 1/4" to 3/8" away from the A/C case on the inside, so careful grinding was paramount.


Both holes took about 5 minutes to create. Once I broke through, about 2 cups of water poured out of the little holes. The fan no longer sloshes through built-up water and the unit is a lot quieter. These exterior holes will be a lot easier to keep clean.

[Bob K]

Originally Posted by deepsea5

Bob K: thank you for posting this mod. I just installed the same valve on my water heater. Very easy install. Found it helpful to remove the valve petcock handle while installing.
FWIW: the Cessna 172 airplane (on Edo floats) I used to own had stainless steel screws and fasteners. The airframe was aluminum. I never had any problems with dissimilar metal corrosion. I assume that the Federal Aviation Administration would ban the use of those screws/fasteners if they were not compatible.

Nice to hear. Let me know if you experience any galvanic corrosion over time. I think I got lucky when I installed my valve: By making the handle parallel with the valve, I was able to avoid banging into anything.

It worked nicely for winterization this past year. It was quick to open it up while I was running compressed air through the system and then close it to keep bugs out of the tank during storage.

[deepsea5]

Originally Posted by Bob K

Nice to hear. Let me know if you experience any galvanic corrosion over time. I think I got lucky when I installed my valve: By making the handle parallel with the valve, I was able to avoid banging into anything.

It worked nice for winterization this past year. It was quick to open it up while I was running compressed air through the system and then close it to keep bugs out of the tank during storage.

Will do. However, I doubt corrosion will be an issue.
I intend to keep the tank empty, unless we are camping. Our camper mostly serves as a "guest bedroom" at our lake house. We use it occasionally to go camping for a change of scenery.
I also keep the drain closed after emptying the tank. Don't need to give the local wasps another place to build a nest.....

[Bob K]

When I first installed the LiFePO4 batteries, Battle Born told me that my existing WFCO 8735 charge controller, which is designed for lead acid batteries, would get the lithium batteries to somewhere around 80-90% SOC. That doesn't seem to be coming true so far. The operating voltages on the lithium batteries just seem to be too high to send the appropriate demand signal to the WFCO charge controller.

Over the course of two weeks on shore power (staying in trailer full-time), the 200 A-H battery bank SOC has slowly fallen from 65% and 13.16v.


I noticed on occasion, when most (or all) DC loads were off in the TT, the charge controller seemed to be putting a small float charge into the battery (.35a here). WFCO says the target float voltage is a nominal 13.6v and would remain there until load (i.e. demand current) reaches the charge controllers maximum output (which would normally occur with a discharged battery). I'm not sure yet why the lithium batteries aren't send a larger current demand to the charge controller.



For a test, I put a big load on the batteries for about 5 hours (-14.34A here) with the charge controller circuit breaker open (e.g. the charge controller can't see the batteries and isn't providing any output to the batts) to see what would happen.


The bank decreased to 31% SOC and 12.96v.


However, when I closed the charge controller circuit breaker (and removed most/all DC loads), the most the charge controller would output to the batteries was about 3-4 amps (perhaps Absorption mode from the charge controller?).


I let it run like this overnight. By late the next morning, the charge controller had increased the SOC to only 35% and 13.14v before dropping back to a very low charge current (.12A here), likely back in Float mode.


I have more testing to make sure this is normal behavior for a lead acid charge controller working on lithium batteries with their own onboard BMS. I had hoped that the WFCO 8735 would get them closer to the predicted 80-90% SOC, but it looks like I'm only going to get about 35%. In the meantime, the Victron BlueSmart charger does a fine job of charging the batteries up to full power when I need it. I plug it into an inside receptacle while I'm on shore power and connect it to the port I installed on the basement wall next to the batteries.

[Charles in WV]

Originally Posted by Bob K

This may seem like a piddly improvement, but this'll make on-road repairs a lot easier.

I needed to clean the pilot tube and Mr. Sparky on my refrigerator. Good grief, the phillips head screws were clearly put in with an some type of automatic screwdriver while the refrigerator was out of the RV. I struggled with getting any type of screwdriver in there and getting enough pressure on them to break them loose.
Attachment 59296
Attachment 59297

I replaced the phillips screws with hex head sheet metal screws. Removal with a ratchet will be effortless for future maintenance.
Attachment 59299

Bob, I have a 2014 184bh. I have been chasing fridge problems. Was the fiberglass on sides of your fridge factory or your addon? I am also gonna seal mine better at top and install fan.
Charles

[Charles in WV]

Bob,
Also check your gas pressure and make sure you actually have 11" WC at the fridge. Low pressure could cause the blowouts on the road. Ours stays on fine. I just gotta reseal back tape and insulate sides and put in fan set.

[Bob K]

Originally Posted by Charles in WV

Bob, I have a 2014 184bh. I have been chasing fridge problems. Was the fiberglass on sides of your fridge factory or your addon? I am also gonna seal mine better at top and install fan.
Charles

I'm not sure. I'm a 2nd owner. My fridge is completely open on top behind that angled sheet metal deflector and I couldn't tell you how much insulation there might be around the sides. Something to think about if I dig deeper.

[Charles in WV]

I insulated mine on the sides today and put another baffle just at top of lower grill. Also made baffle that is at the top more sturdy. Now NO AIR at all can get up sides and across top. And 2 hrs after restarting it I had 10° in freezer and 54° in fridge. It was 89° in camper and 81° outside here today.
Gonna go out at midnight and recheck it.
I will post some pictures over the weekend. Got the method from watching the guy on MyRVWorks.com. he has some very good videos and explains with good detail.
Charles

[Bob K]

Originally Posted by Charles in WV

I insulated mine on the sides today and put another baffle just at top of lower grill. Also made baffle that is at the top more sturdy. Now NO AIR at all can get up sides and across top. And 2 hrs after restarting it I had 10° in freezer and 54° in fridge. It was 89° in camper and 81° outside here today.
Gonna go out at midnight and recheck it.
I will post some pictures over the weekend. Got the method from watching the guy on MyRVWorks.com. he has some very good videos and explains with good detail.

Please post your detailed pictures and the links to that other content. I'm very interested in this solution. Trying to keep my fridge stable has been miserable.

[Bob K]

Originally Posted by Charles in WV

I am also gonna seal mine better at top and install fan.

I'm not sure yet how much good the fans are doing. These absorption fridges rely on sufficient heat for them to work. I'm not sure if my fans are taking away too much heat or if it's just too hot (or my fridge too poorly insulated) for the fans to do any good.

[Charles in WV]

Bob,
Got some info for you. I fell asleep and didn't get the midnight check done. This is all this morning at 0630.
Outside ambient temp 65°
Inside camper ambient temp 63°
Fridge 2nd shelf center 27°
Freezer center -10°
Top of counter 76° except directly above boiler and chimney stack. There it was 80°.
Both sides of cabinet cool to touch.
All at setting on dial of 4, not 5 like I usually had set for.
You can now feel warm air flowing out from top wall vent all the way across, not just on right of vent in front of boiler and heat stack like it used. And this is with NO FAN YET. Think I will smoke it both bottom and top during heat of day to see how good the air movement is.
Attached are some pictures. Sorry if not the best.
Next will be to solve the suction inside from the wall AC. There is a top vent like is used above a refrigerator above it. So I thing if I seal the area around the facing inside on the cabinet it will draw air from top vent for the condenser. Air will always pull in from area of least resistance if it has a choice.
Charles