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Old 11-19-2015, 06:08 PM   #11
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Smacdonald; As this seems to be an operator error and pulling with the TT brakes locked for 2 miles (3.5 KM), this creates a lot of heat in the brake drum and also around the bearings.
It seems the dealer went a bit overboard but nevertheless you have to take the drum assembly apart. If the drum is still in good shape re-use it. Also the bearings you have to check for blushing/heat spots and when they are OK, just remove the old grease wash them and re-pack with grease. Check the brake shoe linings for thickness and separation. Parts are all available at a local automotive supply.
So operator get familiar with your TT and know what to do in emergency. Sounds like it didn't settle on the ball properly, so always check and be sure. Good to carry a spare emergency brake assembly as kids can remove for a prank the pin also. Also use a lock on your hitch when travelling. Nobody is perfect. Safe travelling!
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Old 11-19-2015, 08:33 PM   #12
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I always wondered why I see so many Sicards tire covers on traded in trailers on other dealers lots . Now I think I know why !
We travel to Niagra area on a regular basis as my daughter is there for school and we check out some of the dealers that direction.
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Old 11-19-2015, 08:52 PM   #13
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I wonder if it was a "CYA" quote to ensure that they (the dealership) don't face any litigation down the line for not repairing something that "could have been compromised" from your adventure. If they recommend a repair, but you don't authorize it, they have an out if you come back at them later on.

We actually bought our trailer (26BH) from them and picked it up right after Labour Day (that is Labor Day for those of you in the States ). I personally found them to be extremely easy to deal and negotiate with, and their pricing was nearly $1,500 less than my local dealer in Oshawa (who we had bought our Jayco 1007 PUP from a few years earlier) and was actually close to RVDirect pricing out of Buffalo after considering the exchange rate and import fees.

Our PDI was thorough and not rushed. Trailer was in immaculate condition and other than the curse of the noisy water pump which I think everyone deals with, we have had no issues with 15 nights spent over 3 separate trips and 5 CG's. I have found that the coupler is sometimes difficult to get down over the ball, but have attributed it to both the ball and trailer being so new. I usually have to raise/lower the trailer a few times while rocking the truck to make sure they are lined up perfectly.

Glad to hear that it didn't turn into a bigger mess for you (or others) and that nobody was hurt.
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Old 11-22-2015, 06:42 AM   #14
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Smacdonald: Sorry to hear about your bad luck. However, living in the Cincinnati area I can certainly understand your reluctance to stopping in the horrible I-75 traffic. When you were on the north side of Cincinnati at I-75 and I-275 you were within about 10 miles of a very good Jayco dealership where I purchased my White Hawk. Driving from Cincinnati to Canada without any trailer brakes sounds pretty scary - even at slower speeds - unless you have a very large tow vehicle. Good luck with the repairs!
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Old 11-22-2015, 12:19 PM   #15
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I would replace brakes and drums, drums likely got real hot and I wouldn't trust them. If you're bearings made it home, they are probably ok. Jack up a wheel and see if there is any wobble to it. I'd still do a repack on them.

Springs? What are they smoking? Did you at least ask them what was wrong with the springs? Something tells me it would have been pretty funny.

While there are always people that would do things different, it seems like you made reasonable choices and kept things safe. Everything else can be fixed! Being on a freeway not moving isn't fun and not all that safe. You were right to get off it!
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Old 11-22-2015, 12:36 PM   #16
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Sorry to hear about trailer uncoupling, I did that with my tent trailer when I had it except that I was coming down a steep hill at the time. thank goodness that I crossed the chains. My pup did have brakes and I was pulling it with my truck so stopping it not an issue, all I did was gentle apply the brakes and bring it to a gradual stop. No damage to my truck but the jack wheel disintegrated. With our TT I use a weight distributing hitch and that provides additional protection to hold the coupler to the hitch due to the way the WDH chains hook to the frame of my TT.
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Old 11-22-2015, 12:45 PM   #17
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I would ask to see why they are recommending the springs. Everything else is very likely. I am sure you cooked your brake shoes, drums and bearings. If the heat was hot enough that heat could have been transmitted through to the spindles (which are integral with the axles). Now with the brakes being applied full force (remember your brakes are now receiving full voltage from your trailer batteries) there is significant load being put on the tires, rims, drums, brakes, bearings, spindles, springs, spring hangers. All your braking (in your case dragging) forces are transmitted through these components. Now by dragging your trailer like you did for 2 miles you have exerted excessive load for an excessive amount of time. Damage will be done.

I wouldnt take my trailer to an RV dealership for this work. I would take it to a spring/suspension shop. There probly are several in your area. These would be commercial shops that repair suspension and driveline on big trucks, buses, motorhomes and so on. Parts will be considerably cheaper than an RV store.

Also you mentioned that you could see your tires in the mirrors and didn't see any wobble. Rims, too, could have been damaged by the heat. Also it only takes 0.060" (sixty thousands of an inch) to be out of round - which you would not have seen in your mirrors driving down the road. Also you could have caused excessive tread wear, tread seperation, side wall damage.
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Old 11-26-2015, 03:47 PM   #18
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ok, here is the latest from the stealership. Total price for them to replace brakes $2,500. According to them, the brakes on my particular model are 1.75"wide, (that was for the 2014 Swift SLX 184bh, this year Jayco upgraded their 2016 Swift SLX 184bh to the standard size of 2 1/4"). according to them they need to order new assemblies for each side @ $400 per, plus shipping, border fees etc, blah, blah, blah. also new bearings and all new hubs and drums, with labour it totals $2,500. So, I spoke to another dealer, told them the story and the price quoted. They can order standard Dexter 2 1/4" brake self adjusting assemblies, hubs and drums already with bearings and a new axel with spindles for near $500. plus their labour about $300. All the parts are industry standard Dexter components and I will end up with better brakes. Can you believe these thieves? Why not be a good service tech and suggest to the customer, "hey, we can install better brakes for less - because we value your patronage" - but no can do! They'd rather aggravate the customer and grossly overcharge them, so that they will never come back. Stay away from Sicards in Smithville Ontario. Jayco Corp. if you are reading this, you need to look into this dealer, somethings not right there, unless this is standard Jayco procedures, in which case, will never see another purchase from me again in my lifetime. Oh, by the way, you know who makes the brakes for the Jayco trailer I have? Dexter!

And, tires, rims and springs are just fine. (as I suspected all along) Arrrrgh!
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Old 11-26-2015, 04:00 PM   #19
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Search online for a Canadian shop like Princess auto, you get a whole new Axle & Spring assembly for CAD$ 400
You might also find a Dexter assembly online in Canada
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Old 11-26-2015, 04:16 PM   #20
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I am confused...how many times have they physically inspected it? Was it the same person giving both quotes? I was under the impression that you were done with them after the first quote, Sounds like two very different diagnoses, albeit two very expensive ones.

And usually, aggravating the customer so they don't come back isn't a very sound business plan. I am trying to filter through the emotions side of this story to figure out if I should deal with them if/when I have an issue with my unit.
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