wall mount A/C unit removal

[ranchosinvacas]

Spring is just around the corner here in AZ.
I want to remove and service the wall mount AC unit in my 145rb
Swift SLX.
I have asked this question previously but only got partial responses to the above question.
There is a metal trim strip at top of AC unit held in by one screw. The trim piece can be removed by taking out the screw.
But...the unit itself will still not move forward in the cabinet. It has been previously suggested that I remove the "two bottom screws" also. There are no bottom screws to be seen...Unless they are hidden under the bottom of the decor trim panel stapled on to the bottom of the cabinet itself that is housing the AC unit. It should be obvious as how to proceed...but what am I overlooking? The bottom decor panel will not remove without major damage due to all the staples holding it in place. But this seems to be the only way to locate any other retaining screws.

[RogerR]

I have a wall mounted AC on my SLX and wondered how to do it.

I found this old post
How do you remove the wall air conditioner from a 2011 Jayco

which describes getting one out 3 years ago.

I think calling the factory and asking for advice might be the best route.
Please post when you get a solution with pictures because sooner or later a lot of will want to replace these cheapo ACs with a quieter model.

Good Luck !

[ranchosinvacas]

RogerR thanks much for posting the above link. It basically describes the situation as I found it to be in my 145rb. I "think" as mentioned in the above link, there must be additional retainers in place where they can't be seen. And yes, I would need to bend (destroy) the front (interior side) of the drip tray to assist in removing the unit. I suspect there are additional retainers (screws) under the decor trim panel beneath the cabinet holding everything in place. And yes I should contact Jayco for more Info.
Thanks for the above link

[James Starcraft 18BHS]

Hey,

Did you ever succeed in removing your AC unit? I'm at exactly the same stage as the person in the link (all trim removed, but still it won't budge).

Thanks!

[Jefsemperfi]

Just found out the hard way on this. Currently 2am but its fixed.

Had leak coming from AC at front right corner.

1. Unplug the AC. Very important.
2. Remove the big screw on the INSIDE of camper that holds the AC in place. You cant miss it.
3. Go to the OUTSIDE of the camper and remove all the screws around the AC.
4. Begin removing that outside cover. It's a bear towards the bottom. I ended up breaking mine. The sealant they use is no joke.
5. Use a blade at least 3" long to cut the sealent between the camper edge and the AC. Also cut the drain pan of sealent to. The AC itself fits into a metal piece at the bottom that is three sided. That is the drain pan.
6. With sealent cut, wiggle side to side while pushing forward. AC should start to move into the cabin with relative ease.
7. Once you move it a good 3", go into the cabin and pull that sucker out.

My issue was the two holes in the AC that lead to the drain pan were clogged. Cleaned em out, reinstalled.

BONUS STEP: if you break your cover like I did, you can use a can of spray foam to seal it back. Just be sure to not clogged the lip of the drain pan so it can drain as intended.

BONUS ADVICE: I always keep a can of spray foam in the rig. Its helped me in some pretty tight spots.

[ranchosinvacas]

I started this thread several; years ago. Eventually I was successful in removing the unit.
Basically I used the method described above by Jefsemperfi. I did not break the exterior frame/grille. But the adhesive used to secure the screening in the exterior frame came apart. To repair the screen in the frame I used pop rivets after drilling rivet holes in the frame. I am still dis-satisfied with the amount of exterior air that enters the TT during cold weather by way of the opening for the AC unit. I have used closed cell foam pieces to block winter air flow into the TT.

[andy2cor12nine]

Thank goodness! Technology has finally caught up for us! GE AKQ06LZ is 6000 btu unit sold at your local big box store that fits the cutout opening with zero modifications required! Just put mine in - looking forward to trying out the increased cooling capacity and a real thermostatically controlled unit

[santafekurt]

I have been trying to get my wall mounted AC unit for a long time to route solar wires through the AC roof vent. I could only get it to wiggle a bit in the past, but My AC unit went out and today I was motivated.

There is no need to remove the outside panel! After removing the trim around the unit I hooked the base of the AC unit with a metal crank (hook) from the hitch jack and pulled hard at each side. It’s just jammed in there. I got it 3”-4”’s out and routed the plug out the hole. Then it all came out! It shouldn’t be this stuck, but it didn’t rattle.

Originally Posted by ranchosinvacas

Spring is just around the corner here in AZ.
I want to remove and service the wall mount AC unit in my 145rb
Swift SLX.
I have asked this question previously but only got partial responses to the above question.
There is a metal trim strip at top of AC unit held in by one screw. The trim piece can be removed by taking out the screw.
But...the unit itself will still not move forward in the cabinet. It has been previously suggested that I remove the "two bottom screws" also. There are no bottom screws to be seen...Unless they are hidden under the bottom of the decor trim panel stapled on to the bottom of the cabinet itself that is housing the AC unit. It should be obvious as how to proceed...but what am I overlooking? The bottom decor panel will not remove without major damage due to all the staples holding it in place. But this seems to be the only way to locate any other retaining screws.

[Rv jeff]

I just ran into this problem after buying a hail damaged trailer. Thank you for the forum and pointers . Mine had one square head screw just above the ac unit . I had to lever the unit up and slide flat scrapers to allow the metal trim piece to clear the front lip of the drain pan. I was then able to pry the ac unit out using an automotive seal pry bar. It is really jammed in there.

[ranchosinvacas]

An addition to this thread...The grill on the exterior has fairly large gaps which originally allowed bees to pass thru into the TT interior. During the above described process, I also added 1/4 inch screening to the original grill on the unit which prevented the entry of insects such as bees and wasps.

[Rv jeff]

Great idea. I am also going to change the aluminum mesh for steel as the hail ruined the cooling fins thru the aluminum grill. I am still looking for a replacement ac unit if anyone has any ideas. The unit mentioned previously seems to perhaps have a filter removal interference with the forward cabinets

[RogerR]

When I went up on the roof to replace all my Dicor with Etearnabond I did the intake vent for the side AC. it had 1/2 inch metal mesh. i covered it with screen wire as I had been getting a lot of mosquitos and other flying bugs coming in. After that I opened up the interior access to the front of the AC and sealed some cracks and used automotive self stick sound deadener. Did not notice any noise reduction so I think it was a waste.

[Bradsalmon91]

Does anyone know where to get a replacement AC vent cover with the metal screen? I had to take the siding off to replace some rotten wood and also going to tyveck the entire camper, and put a new roof on it. I broke the AC cover and can not find one online anywhere.

[RogerR]

Your Jayco dealer can probably order one from Jayco but I would call ETrailer first as they may know where to get them.