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Old 04-27-2019, 03:07 PM   #1
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What Did You Do to Your Hummingbird Today?

This kind of thread is popular on auto forums, and makes for entertaining reading when your not searching for something in particular. So I'll try getting it started.

We just woke our 16FD from hibernation after the first years use. Here are a couple things I did:

1. Replaced the lumpy, saggy OEM mattress with a memory foam unit:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can spend big bucks, but after testing this $165 unit in my basement a couple weeks, I'm quite happy. I little tight getting it in, but it fits perfectly. Read the reviews for a few caveats.

2, Replaced the hard to turn on/off non temperature-setting thermostat with an inexpensive digital unit:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Replacing is easy if you have minimal electrical skills (disconnect battery if you feel better, but it's not necessary). Remove the cover and 2 screws mounting the old unit. Remove the two wires without touching them together.

Route the 2 wires through the baseplate of the new unit and attach the baseplate to the wall. Attach the Red wire to the RH terminal and the White wire to the W terminal. Insert the supplied AAA batteries (should last a long time, but keep a couple spares) and snap on the faceplate. Set the Heat On/Off switch to On (off to disable the furnace) and adjust to the desired temperature. Now that's a thermostat!
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Old 04-29-2019, 03:09 PM   #2
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What year 16RB is your rig?
Think this might work for my rig.
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Old 04-29-2019, 05:33 PM   #3
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I used this one which is very comfortable. Only problem is a very tight fit in my 2018 16FD after it expands.



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 04-29-2019, 05:35 PM   #4
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Thermostat is getting easier with time and seems to work OK.
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Old 05-05-2019, 08:05 AM   #5
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More Clothes Storage

16FD has zero clothes storage. I found these storage bins at Bed Bath & Beyond and the motorcycle net on Amazon. Bins hang from a few cup hooks, and rest on window valence slightly for support. Also needed a few cable ties to prevent them from shaking apart on bumpy roads, but they're not visible.

Kinda jury-rigged, but it's easy to remove, and it works for now. Anyone have a better solution?

Hope the attached pic works.......
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Old 05-08-2019, 12:25 PM   #6
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Entertainment Upgrade

Not much activity here, but I'll keep trying.

Do you love the Furrion DV3300 as much as I do? Sound quality, intuitive UI, handy remote - it has it all! Despite all its wonderful features, I decided to change to a double din car unit. Basically, it's pretty simple with a few minor gotchas. There's a forum topic and corresponding YouTube video that covers it pretty well:

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...ird-42639.html

One of the biggest problems in the 16FD is getting to the wiring area behind the DV3300. Unlike the forum example, there is no easy way to access the wiring from the cabinet. After removing the DV3300, I used a 2x4 and rubber mallet to knock the black trim panel backwards. It is stapled in place, but being gentle, I was able to break it loose. Though most of the staples pulled through the panel (and had to be pulled out of the cabinet with pliers) there was no damage to the black panel that precluded reusing it. If that doesn't work for you, it should be easy to cut a new panel from plywood and paint/stain. But for me, that was one less operation.

Once you have access to the wiring, just follow what the video shows. Each manufacturer's unit is slightly different, but not that much. You will almost certainly need a little circuit to defeat the parking break interlock. I purchased a Pioneer AVH-600EX and this device (which worked great):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Once the wiring is done and you verify operation, the real challenge begins - mounting the unit back in the cabinet!

Pioneer makes a wonderful install kit, that I think works with all of it NEX units. It really is a slick little kit that will mount in most any panel, has a trim ring to clean things up, and allows the unit to be removed easily after installation.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Using the kit's housing as a template, and being very careful, i was able to enlarge the original cutout to the proper size using a utility knife. But now, how the he** do I get it all attached back in the cabinet? There just not much room to work back there with the panel in place. I considered mounting it with decorative screws, but really didn't like that much.

I finally settled on doing just what Jayco did. I used a good quality contact cement on the back of the cabinet opening, and along the front edge of the panel. Then I fed the panel through the opening, lined things up very carefully and glued it in place. That stabilizes everything enough to work through the double din opening (without the mounting kit). Next I used a T50 staple gun and secured the panel with a dozen or so staples- same scheme as Jayco! It was tight, but not bad.

Slide the mounting bracket in the double din opening, connect all the wiring, slide in the head unit, and snap on the trim. Voila - a very clean install.

After about 2 hours of work, I'm happy with the results. Sound is much better, and the UI is a godsend. You'll notice in the pic that I also installed an external USB and Aux adapter, because the Pioneer only has rear inputs.
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Old 05-09-2019, 06:23 PM   #7
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Ordered one of these Victron battery protectors today - cheap battery insurance.

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Old 05-10-2019, 02:47 PM   #8
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Never seen those before. Nice idea. I bet this starts some comments:

The discharge chart attached seems to be the most pertinent for RV batteries. The non-programmable Victron model has the fixed trigger points shown. What voltage do you plan to use? 12V or maybe 11.8V?

And how in the world do you insert in-line images? The Insert Image icon with its [IMG]URL[IMG] scheme never works for me. Help please!
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Old 05-10-2019, 03:30 PM   #9
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I'm going for 11.8V. I just copied and pasted the image (on my macbook) from their website.
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Old 05-14-2019, 01:37 PM   #10
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Exclamation

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paulo19 View Post
Looks like this could not be used to protect the battery from low voltages with the typical inverter/charger system. It could not tolerate the reverse direction current flow when charging. Victron needs to make this clear on their website.
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Old 05-14-2019, 10:41 PM   #11
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Hitched up our new Hummingbird 17mbs

Hitched up our new 17mbs on to our 1947 Chevrolet show car today! Dialed in the hitch, anti-sway cams, and trailer brakes and went for a blast out on US 395 in a 20-25 mph cross wind! The hotrod inline6 and 5spd transmission handled it very well! Ready to burn rubber to the next car show in style!
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Old 05-15-2019, 08:13 PM   #12
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Not clear what you found, can you explain a little more? I just use a 12V cigarette lighter voltmeter to measure charge and discharge voltages.
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Old 05-17-2019, 06:47 PM   #13
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That is sweet! Would look good on Rt66!
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Old 05-21-2019, 07:20 AM   #14
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Handy 12V Outlet and USB

What's with the 16FD USB outlets near the floor by the bed? And the 12V Outlet upside down by the TV? With this setup I can easily charge a couple phones and see a voltage monitor plugged into the 12 V outlet.

Not hard to do, but it is best to run the wire behind the fuse box and grab an unused fuse.
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Old 05-21-2019, 07:52 AM   #15
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Another great idea, thanks - I plug a voltmeter into the 12V socket above the TV but that pulls the small panel down from the cabinet real quick.
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Old 05-25-2019, 07:17 AM   #16
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Bike Rack

Many Jayco's come with the Jack-It bike rack on the front tongue. The racks are serviceable, if not particularly convenient. But there's a problem. There's no way to transport the bikes once you get to your destination.

I bought a $25 adjustable ball mount (Harbor Freight 95991). Just drill a 5/8" hole in the lower vertical Jack-It tube (two if you want), and secure with the hitch pin(s). Two bikes now easily fit on the vehicle. Typical of hitch racks, they shake around a bit but are otherwise quite secure.

Now for the bad news. I was quite proud of this mod and used it on a couple long trips. But I recently measured the tongue weight with bikes mounted on my 16FD trailer - nearly 500# !!!!! That's too much for my setup, and probably many others. And moving weight around ain't gonna fix it.

Still, not a bad scheme for bigger rigs?
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Old 05-26-2019, 03:08 PM   #17
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Added 6 new, battery-powered USB ports and a 12 VDC outlet.



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 05-27-2019, 08:54 AM   #18
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Nice. Now you're really gonna need that bigger battery!

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Old 05-27-2019, 10:43 AM   #19
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Think I will get by - running macbook from 12VDC using this dc-dc converter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 instead of a small inverter. Buddy heater solved furnace blower load problem. My group 24 DCLA battery should get me through this year - might go with Duracell Group 31M replacement later https://www.batteriesplus.com/battery/marine-and-boat/deep-cycle/bci-group-31m . Know anything about it?
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Old 06-05-2019, 02:41 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glhalcomb View Post

2, Replaced the hard to turn on/off non temperature-setting thermostat with an inexpensive digital unit:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Replacing is easy if you have minimal electrical skills (disconnect battery if you feel better, but it's not necessary). Remove the cover and 2 screws mounting the old unit. Remove the two wires without touching them together.

Route the 2 wires through the baseplate of the new unit and attach the baseplate to the wall. Attach the Red wire to the RH terminal and the White wire to the W terminal. Insert the supplied AAA batteries (should last a long time, but keep a couple spares) and snap on the faceplate. Set the Heat On/Off switch to On (off to disable the furnace) and adjust to the desired temperature. Now that's a thermostat!
I need to do this. Why is that lever so damn hard to move? It hurts my fingers!
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