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Old 06-18-2022, 07:46 PM   #21
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I would check the circuit breaker panel and see if one is labeled "Power Converter", if so I would turn that one off anytime you are using the inverter. Regarding the trailer wiring, if I understand you correctly, that would be unrelated to your converter, however I would check it for a blown fuse. Are you talking about the trailer's wiring connector to the tow vehicle? Perhaps that power connection was disabled when the solar was installed. ~CA
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Old 06-19-2022, 10:37 AM   #22
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I would check the circuit breaker panel and see if one is labeled "Power Converter", if so I would turn that one off anytime you are using the inverter. Regarding the trailer wiring, if I understand you correctly, that would be unrelated to your converter, however I would check it for a blown fuse. Are you talking about the trailer's wiring connector to the tow vehicle? Perhaps that power connection was disabled when the solar was installed. ~CA
CA, sorry I guess I am not being clear. I now understand the lossy loop that can exist when you don't have the converter off. Battery to inverter to converter and back to battery - not good. Hope I didn't damage anything.

I am at this point starting to wonder if the 2KW inverter would have worked if I had the converter breaker off (I did find it) and also had the fridge on gas rather than auto.

Just to help me be clear... the converter only provides charging for the batteries? or does it supply the rest of the 12v systems as well (lights, fans, furnace)
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Old 06-19-2022, 03:06 PM   #23
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The answer is that it is a definite possibility that your 2k inverter would run the microwave with knowing earlier you could run the microwave for as long as 30 seconds with the more capable power cables installed. Originally I had thought that the microwave oven was the only load on the inverter during your testing, so knowing that wasn't the case certainly changes things.

While I am on this thought, do you have a clamp style AC/DC amperage and voltage meter? If not, that is something I recommend so you can determine more accurately the current loads and voltages and would be of great value to have during your RV adventures as well as for at home.
I suggest this one would be a good one, highly rated anyway but if you choose a different one (or have a different one already) then make sure it can measure both AC and DC current and is a True RMS meter (some just say RMS which is fine).
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z398YWF...lig_dp_it&th=1

In any case, I wouldn't put a lot of thought into it as either way you were very close to the upper limits of the 2000w inverter and while there are very high end $$$ inverters along with very low end inverters, most inverters (except for the best of inverters) are poorly designed to handle their full rated output for any extended period of time (such as many minutes of cooking something in a microwave). When an inverter runs very hot due to running at its higher rated limits, the reliability and longevity of the inverter suffers with time so even if the 2k inverter would power the microwave, the 3k inverter would still be a better choice overall as if your max load is 2000 watts sometimes, then a 3k inverter would be way more capable of staying cooler, being more efficient, and should be more reliable and last longer than a 2k inverter.

If you are still in your return window for the 3k inverter, you certainly may want to test everything again with the 2k inverter with the fridge and power converter turned off as even though the 3k inverter would be more reliable and a better choice overall, if you rarely microwave and happy otherwise with the 2k then certainly this would something to consider.

Just more rambling thoughts to share, originally you had asked "So my two main questions are:
- Why will the coffee maker run while the microwave won't as they are both 1500W
"

It would certainly seem like 1500 watts is 1500 watts, doesn't matter what the appliances are as both should consume the same amount of power, but as you saw, one would run and one would not. The answer is actually that they both could be accurately listed for their wattage with each at 1500w, but the deeper understanding is the coffee maker is a resistance load and the microwave isn't (at least those microwaves with a large transformer inside).

So how does this all fit together. Without going too deep, many resistance appliances (such as those designed to produce heat) are rated as example 1500w @ 125v. What that means however is not that it will use 1500w with your inverter as more information is needed and in particular the voltage you have available from the inverter. In this case you were testing with an inverter with a rated output voltage of 115v. So with this information, you have to square the ratio of the voltages and divide them, which would be 115v^2\125v^2 = .8464 (nearly 85%) and then take that result and multiply by the listed watts. So in this case 1500w X .8464 = 1269.6 So, assuming the ratings on your coffee makers are 1500w@125v, the coffee maker would only be pulling ~1270w @ 115v and not the 1500w that most of us would have suspected.

Now to confuse this a bit more, an inductive load doesn't behave this way, it will usually have a big pull during startup and pull close to the same watts over a range of voltages which means that as (if) the voltage drops, the amps will climb and the wattage stays somewhat consistent. This is the reason that running an inductive load at low voltage trips breakers and certainly can be irreparably damaging to the appliance. (especially for appliances such as your A/C)

lol, before I forget, back to your question, the converter provides power to all of the 12v items in the RV as well for as charging the batteries. When you are not on shore power (or generator) then all of your 12v lights and appliances receive their 12v power from the battery(s). Also, I suspect that your power converter would be close to having 45 amps output. So if you were using 10amps of 12v for lights and other things, then you would have about 35 amps of maximum charge current. ~CA
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Old 06-19-2022, 07:33 PM   #24
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I had a Renegy 2000 W Pure Sine Wave inverter. It ran the microwave but the microwave did to seem to heat very well I have ince switch over to a Victron 3000W Multiplus 2 Inverter/Charger and now the Microwave works as good as it was plugged into shore Power. I'm running the Victron Inverter on 6 100 Amp Battleborn Lithiums where I was running the Renegy inverter on 4.
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Old 06-20-2022, 12:03 PM   #25
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The answer is that it is a definite possibility that your 2k inverter would run the microwave with knowing earlier you could run the microwave for as long as 30 seconds with the more capable power cables installed. Originally I had thought that the microwave oven was the only load on the inverter during your testing, so knowing that wasn't the case certainly changes things.

While I am on this thought, do you have a clamp style AC/DC amperage and voltage meter? If not, that is something I recommend so you can determine more accurately the current loads and voltages and would be of great value to have during your RV adventures as well as for at home.
I suggest this one would be a good one, highly rated anyway but if you choose a different one (or have a different one already) then make sure it can measure both AC and DC current and is a True RMS meter (some just say RMS which is fine).
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z398YWF...lig_dp_it&th=1

In any case, I wouldn't put a lot of thought into it as either way you were very close to the upper limits of the 2000w inverter and while there are very high end $$$ inverters along with very low end inverters, most inverters (except for the best of inverters) are poorly designed to handle their full rated output for any extended period of time (such as many minutes of cooking something in a microwave). When an inverter runs very hot due to running at its higher rated limits, the reliability and longevity of the inverter suffers with time so even if the 2k inverter would power the microwave, the 3k inverter would still be a better choice overall as if your max load is 2000 watts sometimes, then a 3k inverter would be way more capable of staying cooler, being more efficient, and should be more reliable and last longer than a 2k inverter.

If you are still in your return window for the 3k inverter, you certainly may want to test everything again with the 2k inverter with the fridge and power converter turned off as even though the 3k inverter would be more reliable and a better choice overall, if you rarely microwave and happy otherwise with the 2k then certainly this would something to consider.

Just more rambling thoughts to share, originally you had asked "So my two main questions are:
- Why will the coffee maker run while the microwave won't as they are both 1500W
"

It would certainly seem like 1500 watts is 1500 watts, doesn't matter what the appliances are as both should consume the same amount of power, but as you saw, one would run and one would not. The answer is actually that they both could be accurately listed for their wattage with each at 1500w, but the deeper understanding is the coffee maker is a resistance load and the microwave isn't (at least those microwaves with a large transformer inside).

So how does this all fit together. Without going too deep, many resistance appliances (such as those designed to produce heat) are rated as example 1500w @ 125v. What that means however is not that it will use 1500w with your inverter as more information is needed and in particular the voltage you have available from the inverter. In this case you were testing with an inverter with a rated output voltage of 115v. So with this information, you have to square the ratio of the voltages and divide them, which would be 115v^2\125v^2 = .8464 (nearly 85%) and then take that result and multiply by the listed watts. So in this case 1500w X .8464 = 1269.6 So, assuming the ratings on your coffee makers are 1500w@125v, the coffee maker would only be pulling ~1270w @ 115v and not the 1500w that most of us would have suspected.

Now to confuse this a bit more, an inductive load doesn't behave this way, it will usually have a big pull during startup and pull close to the same watts over a range of voltages which means that as (if) the voltage drops, the amps will climb and the wattage stays somewhat consistent. This is the reason that running an inductive load at low voltage trips breakers and certainly can be irreparably damaging to the appliance. (especially for appliances such as your A/C)

lol, before I forget, back to your question, the converter provides power to all of the 12v items in the RV as well for as charging the batteries. When you are not on shore power (or generator) then all of your 12v lights and appliances receive their 12v power from the battery(s). Also, I suspect that your power converter would be close to having 45 amps output. So if you were using 10amps of 12v for lights and other things, then you would have about 35 amps of maximum charge current. ~CA
Thanks for these discussion points Craig. My son helped me to redo a bunch of connections that were marginal. There is a bunch of stuff that I don't understand as weird stuff was happening when I have the solar charge disconnected. The trouble with inheriting someone else's install is that I am not exactly sure how things are wired.

I switched out the 3K inverter and with the 2K installed, the converter breaker off, and the fridge on gas... the microwave works. For the amount of time that we use the microwave I think we will be OK with the 2K. Now I just need a relay to automatically shut off the converter when the inverter is on so I don't have to use the breaker as a switch

Thanks for the explanation on the difference between resistive loads and inductive loads. It jogs my memory of this theory from a long time ago LOL.

I do not have a clamp around meter so thanks for the link. It is really pretty inexpensive so I'll get one on order.

One final question. I have the new GoPower solar charge controller that has a charge profile for lithium. It gives me different reading for charge level compared to my Renogy battery monitor. Yesterday The monitor was reading 10A of change while the charge controller was reading 6.7A. I'd be more inclined to believe the monitor as it is communicating directly with the BCMs.
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Old 06-20-2022, 12:30 PM   #26
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I had a Renegy 2000 W Pure Sine Wave inverter. It ran the microwave but the microwave did to seem to heat very well I have ince switch over to a Victron 3000W Multiplus 2 Inverter/Charger and now the Microwave works as good as it was plugged into shore Power. I'm running the Victron Inverter on 6 100 Amp Battleborn Lithiums where I was running the Renegy inverter on 4.
Thanks for the description of your setup. I am guessing that you also have a big solar array. The Victron has a great name but also a gold-plated price tag. The Battleborns are also very expensive and are double the price of the Renogy. I had a hard enough time convincing my wife that Renogy Lithium cells were worth the money. The way I figured it, the lithiums would give me double the capacity of lead-acid or AGM and you can run them below 50%
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Old 06-20-2022, 01:25 PM   #27
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Thanks for these discussion points Craig. My son helped me to redo a bunch of connections that were marginal. There is a bunch of stuff that I don't understand as weird stuff was happening when I have the solar charge disconnected. The trouble with inheriting someone else's install is that I am not exactly sure how things are wired.

I switched out the 3K inverter and with the 2K installed, the converter breaker off, and the fridge on gas... the microwave works. For the amount of time that we use the microwave I think we will be OK with the 2K. Now I just need a relay to automatically shut off the converter when the inverter is on so I don't have to use the breaker as a switch

Thanks for the explanation on the difference between resistive loads and inductive loads. It jogs my memory of this theory from a long time ago LOL.

I do not have a clamp around meter so thanks for the link. It is really pretty inexpensive so I'll get one on order.

One final question. I have the new GoPower solar charge controller that has a charge profile for lithium. It gives me different reading for charge level compared to my Renogy battery monitor. Yesterday The monitor was reading 10A of change while the charge controller was reading 6.7A. I'd be more inclined to believe the monitor as it is communicating directly with the BCMs.
Once you get your voltage\amp meter then you will be better able to know the charge current. I suspect that you may still have some power going to something else, so 10a out of the solar, 6.7a into the battery(s), and 3.2 to ??? somewhere else. Having a meter will be very helpful in determining these things. ~CA
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Old 06-20-2022, 01:52 PM   #28
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RE inverter hookup sparks

Get a 12v taillight bulb or similar, not LED, put it inline and make your initial connection to charge your inverter's capacitors for a few seconds. No huge sparks, and easier to source than a resistor.
When trying to connect my Sensata 2400 watt low frequency inverter it kept overloading my lithium battery's 100A BMS which would disconnect it nearly instantly. Those huge capacitors are thirsty for electrons!
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Old 06-20-2022, 02:06 PM   #29
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Get a 12v taillight bulb or similar, not LED, put it inline and make your initial connection to charge your inverter's capacitors for a few seconds. No huge sparks, and easier to source than a resistor.
When trying to connect my Sensata 2400 watt low frequency inverter it kept overloading my lithium battery's 100A BMS which would disconnect it nearly instantly. Those huge capacitors are thirsty for electrons!
Just an FYI, resistors are not hard to source now days, you can find them in almost all auto parts stores where the taillight bulbs are sold as they are commonly used for purchasers of LED tailight bulbs to prevent issues with certain vehicles that don't work well with LED tailights. Also, you don't need a light bulb socket and pigtail with wires when you have a resistor, but for sure a bulb would work just fine.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...esistor&pos=20
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Old 06-22-2022, 08:23 AM   #30
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Thanks for the description of your setup. I am guessing that you also have a big solar array. The Victron has a great name but also a gold-plated price tag. The Battleborns are also very expensive and are double the price of the Renogy. I had a hard enough time convincing my wife that Renogy Lithium cells were worth the money. The way I figured it, the lithiums would give me double the capacity of lead-acid or AGM and you can run them below 50%

The Renegy 100 Amp Lithiums are actually a pretty good battery and priced pretty good as well. i got my Battleborn 100 amp batteries on sale when they were marked at $675 w/free shipping.. Looks like those days are gone. The Victron MultiPlus 2 is made for RV's with 50 Amp panels. It has an Auto switch over, circuit protection, Battery Charger and Power assist. I can pretty much run everything in the RV with exception to both AC's at the same time with this Inverter. When you factor in everything you get with the MulitPlus 2, its really not a bad deal @ the $1400 sale price. I have 1200 Watts of Solar panels and 6 100 Amp of Lithiums. I can run pretty much run all day just off the Solar and through the night off the batteries. You are correct the Lithiums can be run below 50%. I have my system set to disconnect if the Lithiums get to 14% to avoid running them completely dead, something you don't want to do with Lithiums. You can actually destroy a Lithium battery running them to zero percent. Another bonus factory is the weight, they are about half of what a lead acid battery is. The next time your wife pulls out the hair dryer when you are not connected to shore power, remind her that the Lithiums did their job,, she'll be happy. :-)
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Old 06-22-2022, 09:03 AM   #31
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Once you get your voltage\amp meter then you will be better able to know the charge current. I suspect that you may still have some power going to something else, so 10a out of the solar, 6.7a into the battery(s), and 3.2 to ??? somewhere else. Having a meter will be very helpful in determining these things. ~CA
Maybe I'm wrong, but I read the post you were replying to in the opposite direction. 6.7A from solar, 10A into the batteries, which would indicate (I'm guessing) the converter was supplying 3.3A of charge.
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Old 06-22-2022, 09:30 AM   #32
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The Renegy 100 Amp Lithiums are actually a pretty good battery and priced pretty good as well. i got my Battleborn 100 amp batteries on sale when they were marked at $675 w/free shipping.. Looks like those days are gone. The Victron MultiPlus 2 is made for RV's with 50 Amp panels. It has an Auto switch over, circuit protection, Battery Charger and Power assist. I can pretty much run everything in the RV with exception to both AC's at the same time with this Inverter. When you factor in everything you get with the MulitPlus 2, its really not a bad deal @ the $1400 sale price. I have 1200 Watts of Solar panels and 6 100 Amp of Lithiums. I can run pretty much run all day just off the Solar and through the night off the batteries. You are correct the Lithiums can be run below 50%. I have my system set to disconnect if the Lithiums get to 14% to avoid running them completely dead, something you don't want to do with Lithiums. You can actually destroy a Lithium battery running them to zero percent. Another bonus factory is the weight, they are about half of what a lead acid battery is. The next time your wife pulls out the hair dryer when you are not connected to shore power, remind her that the Lithiums did their job,, she'll be happy. :-)

Just a thought to share that may provide a bit more comfort with LifePo4 batteries. It is certainly true that running the individual LifePo4 battery cells down to zero percent (zero volts) will damage and\or destroy them, but it is important to keep in mind that almost all (if not all) LifePo4 packaged batteries such as those from Renogy, BattleBorn, etc, have a battery management system (BMS) in place that will disconnect the 4 internal battery cells at around 2.5v~2.6v per cell (x4=10v~10.4v for 12v batteries), and when that happens the battery is at zero percent for the battery user, but the 4 internal battery cells will remain at a safe voltage level which prevents the internal battery cells from being damaged or destroyed.

None of the above means that I would do anything different than you are doing though with stopping at ~14%, especially if I had 600ah of LifepPo4, as stopping sooner (14% vs 0%) will provide for more cycles and increased longevity overall. ~CA
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Old 06-22-2022, 09:39 AM   #33
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Maybe I'm wrong, but I read the post you were replying to in the opposite direction. 6.7A from solar, 10A into the batteries, which would indicate (I'm guessing) the converter was supplying 3.3A of charge.
Interesting, yes I misread what the OP stated, as in my mind that wouldn't occur which played in part why I misread this, (with understanding that you can't have 6.7a from 12v solar and then have that provide for a 10a @ 12v charge current to the batteries)... but if the voltage of the solar setup is higher say ~24v @ 6.7 amps and then reduced in voltage by the controller and by half (24v to 12v), then that would provide for more amperage at the battery(s), double the amperage in fact minus the conversion loss. ~CA

Updated comment: as I think about it, my 12v solar panels output 18v, so at 18v and discounting any conversion loss, 6.7a@18v would be right at ~10a@12v (when using a MPPT solar controller) as a third more voltage at the source would result with a third more amps at a third less voltage (12v vs 18v)... which makes the amperage readings that the OP stated right on target.
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Old 06-22-2022, 10:38 AM   #34
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So you are saying it is not possible to have both the Solar and the converter providing charge at the same time? That the Solar would override any output from the converter? I realize this would likely be true (with a non-lithium-compatible controller) once the charge got high enough, but until then I would think amperage would come from both sources.
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Old 06-22-2022, 11:01 AM   #35
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The Renegy 100 Amp Lithiums are actually a pretty good battery and priced pretty good as well. i got my Battleborn 100 amp batteries on sale when they were marked at $675 w/free shipping.. Looks like those days are gone. The Victron MultiPlus 2 is made for RV's with 50 Amp panels. It has an Auto switch over, circuit protection, Battery Charger and Power assist. I can pretty much run everything in the RV with exception to both AC's at the same time with this Inverter. When you factor in everything you get with the MulitPlus 2, its really not a bad deal @ the $1400 sale price. I have 1200 Watts of Solar panels and 6 100 Amp of Lithiums. I can run pretty much run all day just off the Solar and through the night off the batteries. You are correct the Lithiums can be run below 50%. I have my system set to disconnect if the Lithiums get to 14% to avoid running them completely dead, something you don't want to do with Lithiums. You can actually destroy a Lithium battery running them to zero percent. Another bonus factory is the weight, they are about half of what a lead acid battery is. The next time your wife pulls out the hair dryer when you are not connected to shore power, remind her that the Lithiums did their job,, she'll be happy. :-)
That is a great price on the Battleborns... they are way more expensive now than the Renogy. Slightly different lithium technology, but very similar. That is a huge solar array... your whole roof must be covered LOL. I just gave one 190W panel and was going to add one more and it arrived shattered so it's on its way back.

So I had read that it was no problem to take lithiums down to zero. I've already done that once without intending to, and it is still a mystery to me why overnight they depleted themselves.
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Old 06-22-2022, 11:28 AM   #36
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Interesting, yes I misread what the OP stated, as in my mind that wouldn't occur which played in part why I misread this, (with understanding that you can't have 6.7a from 12v solar and then have that provide for a 10a @ 12v charge current to the batteries)... but if the voltage of the solar setup is higher say ~24v @ 6.7 amps and then reduced in voltage by the controller and by half (24v to 12v), then that would provide for more amperage at the battery(s), double the amperage in fact minus the conversion loss. ~CA

Updated comment: as I think about it, my 12v solar panels output 18v, so at 18v and discounting any conversion loss, 6.7a@18v would be right at ~10a@12v (when using a MPPT solar controller) as a third more voltage at the source would result with a third more amps at a third less voltage (12v vs 18v)... which makes the amperage readings that the OP stated right on target.
Humm... I'm not sure that the controller (GoPower PWM-30-UL) would be capable of pre-conversion (to 12v) current display. The Overlander panel is 19.1v at 9.3a, which doesn't equal 190W. In any event, the current at 12v should be around 14a not factoring in efficiency. I would guess that the controller would interact with the batteries to charge them and sense current flow (6.7a in this case). So the only possible explanation for the Renogy smart monitor to read 10a change would be if the 3.3a was coming from the converter (I was plugged into shore power). The charge controller would not be aware of the converter contribution, but the smart monitor in communication with the BCM would.

On a slightly different topic... I was going to add a Renogy 200W panel in parallel. I pretty much have to use a parallel configuration with the PWM controller so I will lose a little due to the slight mismatch in panels. The Renogy is 22.6v at 8.85a (which does add up to 200W, so I don't know how the GP marketing department does math). It would be ideal to add another GP Overlander panel but the cost is 3x as much as Renogy. I would have already had this installed by now but the Renogy panel was damaged on delivery). So my question is... are the panels close enough to combine?
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Old 06-22-2022, 11:52 AM   #37
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Humm... I'm not sure that the controller (GoPower PWM-30-UL) would be capable of pre-conversion (to 12v) current display. The Overlander panel is 19.1v at 9.3a, which doesn't equal 190W. In any event, the current at 12v should be around 14a not factoring in efficiency. I would guess that the controller would interact with the batteries to charge them and sense current flow (6.7a in this case). So the only possible explanation for the Renogy smart monitor to read 10a change would be if the 3.3a was coming from the converter (I was plugged into shore power). The charge controller would not be aware of the converter contribution, but the smart monitor in communication with the BCM would.

On a slightly different topic... I was going to add a Renogy 200W panel in parallel. I pretty much have to use a parallel configuration with the PWM controller so I will lose a little due to the slight mismatch in panels. The Renogy is 22.6v at 8.85a (which does add up to 200W, so I don't know how the GP marketing department does math). It would be ideal to add another GP Overlander panel but the cost is 3x as much as Renogy. I would have already had this installed by now but the Renogy panel was damaged on delivery). So my question is... are the panels close enough to combine?
I apologize as I have been multi-tasking more than usual for me today and I have been sidetracked quite a bit. With that in mind, I didn't take the time to re-read the thread in order to realize the controller you are using is a pwm, along with my math and comments were particular to mppt controllers as the same statements I made are not true with a pwm controller such as what you have.

In any case, the converter cannot output any current if it is turned off (breaker off) (which is where I left off in reading the thread earlier on) so certainly the gain of 3.3a from the converter added to the 6.7a from the solar would absolutely make sense with the shore power and converter powered on.

Regarding the solar panels, let me review the specs you shared later in the day for what you are considering purchasing. While I have solar panels of my own, I haven't spent a lot of time researching all of the concerns with mixing different solar panels. In any case, it would be best to make sure that the different wattage panels had the same voltage output and wired in parallel which would be fine, along with verifying that your PWM controller can support the higher amperage. I would be concerned with having Solar Panels at different voltages in parallel, but I need to give that more thought in regards to small voltage differences (ie: ~3.5v) ~CA
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Old 06-22-2022, 12:37 PM   #38
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2000 Watt Inverter

I just wanted to toss out that I do run my microwave on a 2K inverter. It is a Xantrex Freedom X 2000 True Sine Wave Power Inverter. I am using 2/0 AWG cables... 5 feet in length. The microwave runs without problems... however it really takes down my batteries pretty fast. If I am doing anything for more than a minute or 2 in the microwave, I just fire up the generator. The inverter was relatively inexpensive.... Under $600 including the optional remote panel with cable. I have used it for about a year with no problems. It has a built in transfer switch.
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Old 06-22-2022, 12:58 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by Jab55 View Post
I just wanted to toss out that I do run my microwave on a 2K inverter. It is a Xantrex Freedom X 2000 True Sine Wave Power Inverter. I am using 2/0 AWG cables... 5 feet in length. The microwave runs without problems... however it really takes down my batteries pretty fast. If I am doing anything for more than a minute or 2 in the microwave, I just fire up the generator. The inverter was relatively inexpensive.... Under $600 including the optional remote panel with cable. I have used it for about a year with no problems. It has a built in transfer switch.
Thanks James... I was finally able to get the 2K inverter working. User error and cables were too small before. I used the double-run 4AWG cable that came with the inverter. It would run the micro for 5 sec before shutdown. Switched to 4/0 cable and got to 30 seconds. I upgraded to a 3K inverter (it struggled) and then discovered that my fridge was in Auto so that presented an additional load to the inverter. And lack of knowledge on my part... I had the converter on as well. So that presents a parasitic loop to the inverter, not good. With the fridge on gas and the converter breaker off, I switched back to the 2K unit and it worked.

I'm not crazy about using the breaker as a switch and will put in a relay when I get some time so that it automatically switches. I hear you on the heavy drain. Micro on for 2 min results in a 2% reduction on my SOC indicator.

I like that your inverter has a built-in transfer switch. I have an external GoPower 30amp transfer switch.
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Old 06-22-2022, 01:37 PM   #40
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Can you try a diffent 1500w microwave to eliminate that being the problem?
Others posted they run microwaves on 2k watt inverters.
Or try lower wattage like 1100wor 1200w microwave. A lower wattage microwave is alot cheaper than batteries and inverters
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