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Old 06-22-2022, 03:22 PM   #41
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The built in transfer switch is cleaner....but if the switch goes out....probably have to replace the whole inverter.... I know I made my circuit breaker panel...2 sided....so when I am on shore power or generator it feeds the whole panel, both sides....fridge, A/C units, power converter, water heater. When I am on the inverter it only feeds half the panel...the outlets around the rig including the kitchen and microwave. So I don't get a loop where the inverter is powering the converter. I don't know if that helps you much.
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Old 06-22-2022, 03:54 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by Go-red-car View Post
...
On a slightly different topic... I was going to add a Renogy 200W panel in parallel. I pretty much have to use a parallel configuration with the PWM controller so I will lose a little due to the slight mismatch in panels. The Renogy is 22.6v at 8.85a (which does add up to 200W, so I don't know how the GP marketing department does math). It would be ideal to add another GP Overlander panel but the cost is 3x as much as Renogy. I would have already had this installed by now but the Renogy panel was damaged on delivery). So my question is... are the panels close enough to combine?
I gave this further thought and in the configuration you have and all "should" work well with paralleling the panels at a slightly different voltage, and pwm. I used the word "should" though as there is a caution to know and check into first.

Most solar panels have a "Blocking Diode" at the panel's connector, the primary purpose for the diode is to not allow backfeed most commonly seen if one panel is in the shade and the other is in the sun (one panel has much higher voltage than the other). With that in mind, not all solar panels have the diodes from the factory and I don't know if the GP Overlander panel would have one of not. If it doesn't, then the higher voltage panel could backfeed voltage into the lower voltage panel, and in this case would be a higher voltage than what the lower voltage panel is designed for. Would that damage the lower voltage panel? Maybe not, and someone with more solar panel experience may know, however I wouldn't parallel them anyway without diodes in place and if the Overlander panel doesn't already have a blocking diode then simply add a diode inline with the panel(s) (amazon sells them and they connect directly into the same connectors common with solar panels). With all this in mind, then all should work well for you and in a better protected configuration. ~CA
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Old 06-22-2022, 05:41 PM   #43
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If I'm repeating others, so be it. Your microwave is toast. I recently replaced mine because it was doing the same thing while being fed by a 3000 watt generator.

This is what I bought...straight replacement.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
There are other options for RV microwaves.

Works great.

BTW, what makes an RV microwave is the faceplate to keep it on the shelf. There's nothing special about them otherwise.

Buy a new microwave.
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Old 06-22-2022, 05:42 PM   #44
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Your microwave is toast.
No, his problem is no longer a problem.
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Old 06-22-2022, 05:50 PM   #45
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I know I made my circuit breaker panel...2 sided....so when I am on shore power or generator it feeds the whole panel, both sides....fridge, A/C units, power converter, water heater. When I am on the inverter it only feeds half the panel
Coming from the world of much larger RVs that is all that I have previously experienced. I have considered it for the 166 when I get it (appointment to pickup is Friday), but I don't know how difficult it would be to fish a heavier gauge romex from the panel to the inverter location. The 15 amp circuit that feeds the inverter circuits stock is marginal for the microwave, which is normally on a 20 amp circuit. First image below outlines it for those who might be following this but can't visualize what you and I are talking about, and the second image is one posted here by another member, where branch A is the current feed to the "inverter prep." First image assumes an inverter with transfer, and is actually a picture of the AIMS 2000 with transfer.
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Old 06-23-2022, 09:34 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by craigav View Post
I gave this further thought and in the configuration you have and all "should" work well with paralleling the panels at a slightly different voltage, and pwm. I used the word "should" though as there is a caution to know and check into first.

Most solar panels have a "Blocking Diode" at the panel's connector, the primary purpose for the diode is to not allow backfeed most commonly seen if one panel is in the shade and the other is in the sun (one panel has much higher voltage than the other). With that in mind, not all solar panels have the diodes from the factory and I don't know if the GP Overlander panel would have one of not. If it doesn't, then the higher voltage panel could backfeed voltage into the lower voltage panel, and in this case would be a higher voltage than what the lower voltage panel is designed for. Would that damage the lower voltage panel? Maybe not, and someone with more solar panel experience may know, however I wouldn't parallel them anyway without diodes in place and if the Overlander panel doesn't already have a blocking diode then simply add a diode inline with the panel(s) (amazon sells them and they connect directly into the same connectors common with solar panels). With all this in mind, then all should work well for you and in a better protected configuration. ~CA
Thanks for this CA... on my last trailer I had slightly mismatched panels and in parallel, it seemed to work fine. I had read that shade was more of an issue for series connections as it would drag down the entire array. From what I have read, adding a different panel simply penalizes you on cumulative power. So a 200 + 190 would not give you 390, but actually 380. I'll do some more reading on the use of diodes. Seems like a good precaution.
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Old 06-23-2022, 08:48 PM   #47
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Coming from the world of much larger RVs that is all that I have previously experienced. I have considered it for the 166 when I get it (appointment to pickup is Friday), but I don't know how difficult it would be to fish a heavier gauge romex from the panel to the inverter location. The 15 amp circuit that feeds the inverter circuits stock is marginal for the microwave, which is normally on a 20 amp circuit. First image below outlines it for those who might be following this but can't visualize what you and I are talking about, and the second image is one posted here by another member, where branch A is the current feed to the "inverter prep." First image assumes an inverter with transfer, and is actually a picture of the AIMS 2000 with transfer.
installing inverters on 50 Amp panels is a pain because of the split panels. Some folks will install a transfer switch to transfer power to the desired side, some install two inverters and power both sides and the latest best solution from Victron is their MultiPlus 2 Inverter Charger designed to work with 50 Amp panels. I installed one on my RSTS and love it.. It also has a Power Assist feature that will take some of the inverter load to start AC units when using smaller generators. I have a 4000 Watt Generator and able to get both AC's started without the Easy Starts. In fact i can start and run one AC off the inverter for a few hours if i needed too. The price tag is a little steep but there are a lot of features in the package that makes it worthwhile to look at.. Battleborn has them on sale, and i heard through the grapevine they will drop to $1,300 for Independence Day Sale.

https://battlebornbatteries.com/prod...us-ii-2x-120v/
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