2017 Eagle 321rsts solar prep

[Cricket59]

I have a 2017 Eagle 321rsts fifth wheel with the Go Power Solar prep.
I’m trying to connect solar panels to the factory installed roof gland.
I found the positive lead near the battery cutoff and the negative connected to the chassis which I will connect to the solar controller.
I was trying to run a continuity check from the roof down to the battery compartment and found that my positive lead is open. My negative works great.
I’ve removed the closet back panel in the bedroom to look for the wires and found them.
We pulled on both the black and the red and did not see any movement on the roof, I have the gland removed.
Any ideas as to why the positive is open? Could they have crushed it during installing or does it not go directly from the gland to the battery compartment?
I guess I’m running new wires.

[ARoamer]

From what I have heard on this forum, there seems to be no "normal" factory wiring for solar. IF you have a interior wall sticker / label stating solar ready or similar, your wiring might be behind that label. Or not.
On my 2020 pinnacle, both wires to the roof connectors were behind the sticker next to the BMPRO control panel, both were labeled, positive was cut and capped, likely because that's where they wanted the go power controller located. I found the positive in the basement and mounted my controller there closer to the battery, but never found the negative in my basement, I'm assuming it's terminated to a ground elsewhere. Hopefully someone else with your model has been through it and will reply with more relevant info. Happy hunting, and good luck!

[Cricket59]

Thanks ARoamer
I’ve never seen a sticker like some trailers have on the wall saying it‘s Solar ready and I’ve removed all the access panels I can find, even behind the toilet and haven’t found the wires.
I’ve ordered new wire and plan on re running the”factory Solar prep” but I’ll keep looking while I wait for the wire

[Cricket59]

Found my problem.
The wires were behind the wall in the hallway and the positive wire was cut and capped. Idiots
Why not let the customer cut the wires. Not everyone want the charge controller mounted inside on a wall.
Thanks everyone for the help

[Jayco321RSTS]

Thanks to you all who have posted this thread. Ours was not labeled and were cut with wire nuts behind the wall panel. Really sucks to have to pull the wall panel off but better than cutting a hole and not finding them!!

Thanks again for the generous advice on this forum.

Dan

[Bill Johnson]

My solar controller is by my door and I like it inside. I glance at it all the time. It shows the charge of my batteries and the voltage

[billcf7]

Originally Posted by Bill Johnson

My solar controller is by my door and I like it inside. I glance at it all the time. It shows the charge of my batteries and the voltage

Your solar controller should be as close to the batteries as possible
• The charge controller should always be mounted close to the battery since precise measurement of the battery voltage is an important part of the functions of a solar charge controller. quote from Renogy

[Bill Johnson]

That's where Thor put them

[Hbrand]

My Solar Prep wires are where the house batteries are.
I found 2 wires and set of 4 wires. Please look at the picture.
Thought 2 of the wires would have voltage, nope.
Only the white wire is ground.
The + wire ends at a wire block.
Why is the + wire not connected to the battery ?

Looks like 4 wires going to the roof connector.
Thanks, harold

[Bill Johnson]

Originally Posted by Hbrand

My Solar Prep wires are where the house batteries are.
I found 2 wires and set of 4 wires. Please look at the picture.
Thought 2 of the wires would have voltage, nope.
Only the white wire is ground.
The + wire ends at a wire block.
Why is the + wire not connected to the battery ?

Looks like 4 wires going to the roof connector.
Thanks, harold

On mine everything was connected and the wires were shorted together because the manufacturer never installed the solar controller and all the bare wires were touching. I called the manufacturer and they sent me a controller and I installed it. I had to replace a fuse that was out.

[Hbrand]

Ok, I figured it out with a good voltmeter:
2 wires going to the front chassis battery
2 wires are going up on the roof for solar panels
2 more wires: 1 wire is ground, 1 wires connects to a 40A fuse and then to + battery

Hope that helps others.

[Bill Johnson]

Originally Posted by Hbrand

Ok, I figured it out with a good voltmeter:
2 wires going to the front chassis battery
2 wires are going up on the roof for solar panels
2 more wires: 1 wire is ground, 1 wires connects to a 40A fuse and then to + battery

Hope that helps others.

Just wondering everyone on Jayco says, Jayco solar doesn't charge the chassis battery like my Thor does

[Hbrand]

One could use solar to charge the front cassis battery using the 2 wires in my battery compartment.
Using a Solar charge controller.
I just installed a battery switch for the chassis battery and will just turn off if parked for longer.
The solar will be used for the house batteries.