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Old 12-01-2015, 08:12 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by gypsmjim View Post
Thanks to all for the suggestions. I got a black Furion Inlet for a good price on Ebay, plus the female plug end to do the conversion. I have no access to the backside of the wall, so I'll have to do the installation on the outside. I'll probably need to find a piece of white UHMW to make a plate to cover the existing hole, but that won't be a problem.

Sorry for the delay on the response, I could not find the bill of sale for the Furrion outlet, or the model number. I tried finding it on the internet, with no luck. May have discontinued that model.

What TT/RV are you modifying? What is on the back side of the exterior outlet?

Don
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Old 12-02-2015, 09:39 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Mustang65 View Post
I got tired of pulling and pushing in the cable. It kept getting tangled up and difficult to pull out so I converted it to a plug in type setup. I cut the 25' cable off at the TT wall and installed a female 30 Amp outlet on the trailer wall.

You would connect the inside cable directly to the newly installed receptacle. My setup is a little different as I wired my system to include my inverter.

Here are the parts that I used. Easy conversion! Easy to connect and disconnect shore power now.

Don

Jayco RV Owners Forum - Mustang65's Album: SHORE POWER CABLE CONVERSION USING EXISTING ENTRY POINT
Like your mod but am confused. Pics show inside female outets but pics also show male connector on the outside of the rv. Also one pic shows new exterior cover over the male connector port and another pic shows using the cut down oem port / cover with the small sliding tab where the cord passes thru.

Can you explain. Are the pics made from multi projects?
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Old 12-02-2015, 12:53 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Bassdogs View Post
Like your mod but am confused. Pics show inside female outets but pics also show male connector on the outside of the rv. Also one pic shows new exterior cover over the male connector port and another pic shows using the cut down oem port / cover with the small sliding tab where the cord passes thru.

Can you explain. Are the pics made from multi projects?
Ok, let’s see if I can take you step by step through the project/15 pictures.
Pictures:
#1 & 2 – Added parts needed for project, plus one 30 amp male plug, see picture #13
#3 & 4 – is the exterior 30 Amp Flanged Inlet with Power Smart LED (Camping World $38 Catalog Item # 69570 newer model)

#5 – is the 4x4 electrical box cover with 2” hole (I believe it is for dryer receptacles – Home Depot/Lowes) with the center hole. I drilled the 4 smaller holes to mount the exterior power replacement outlet.
#6 – I removed the inlet hinged cover from replacement outlet and laid it into the 4x4 electrical box cover. I then drilled 4 screw holes to mount the replacement outlet into the 4x4 cover (used self tapper screws)
#7 – Picture of the mounted replacement outlet in the 4x4 cover.
#8 – This is the existing cover plate assembly that was on the TT. Before removing it from the TT, on the inside of the TT, draw a line around the back of the cover plate that is on the inside of the trailer where the wall is. You will then cut the portion that sticks out into the TT off so that it is flush with the inside wall. I then removed the cover plate and cleaned off the old caulking.
#9 – Picture of the TT’s cover plate with the excess part removed. (I have to figure out how to rearrange them)
#10 – This picture should actually be picture #8. It is how the cover plate extends into the TT, before trimming it.

In between #10 & #11 – You need to cut the 30 Amp service cable leaving enough slack on the inside to connect the 30 Amp service cable from the TT’s AC control center to the back of the new outlet. You will want to leave about 1 foot of slack on the inside of the TT… just in case.

#11 – Picture of the completed install from the inside of the TT. Reinstall the cover plate on the outside of the TT. The new replacement outlet fits perfectly in the 4x4 electrical box cover. As I was mounting the 4x4 new outlet, I put caulking around the part that fits up against the TT’s exterior cover plate. I then screwed the 4x4 plate in with 4 self tapping screws. I then went to the outside and caulked around the inside of the exterior cover plate where it meets the newly installed outlet and around the lip of the cover plate where it gets mounted to the TT. I figured caulking it from both sides will insure no leaks. (So far no leaks)

Skip #12 for now

#13 – I then took the 30 Amp service cord that was cut off and put a new 30 Amp Male plug on it.

#14 & 15 – Finished install

OK, #12.. This is a little different than the normal conversion above. You are probably a little confused, and rightfully so. I wanted 110VAC on all the outlets in the TT when I am dry-camping and did not want to run extension cords from the inverter into the TT. So, I ran a 12AWG Romex cable from the Inverter (front storage compartment) to the rear storage compartment where I terminated it into a RV 30 Amp Service outlet (bottom electrical box). I then connected the newly installed 30 Amp external outlet (shore power) to the top electrical box. Next I connected a male 30 Amp plug (big black one) to the electrical cable that goes to the TT’s 110VAC control panel. So when I am dry camping or traveling* I plug the TT’s big black plug into the lower electrical box that connects directly to the inverter for my 110VAC service (all TT outlets), or if we have access to Shore power, I plug the TT’s big black cable to the top electrical box that supplies CG 11VAC shore power.

* While traveling we run the fridge on AC and I have the TT’s wireless Wi-Fi router running for the TT’s rear view camera, for monitoring battery voltage and solar output.

Sorry this is so long. Probably took me less time to do the actual work than typing up these instructions.
Any questions, just yell.
Don
Attached Thumbnails
ELECTRICAL Conversion - Electrical 4x4 cover plate.jpg   ELECTRICAL Conversion - Flanged inlet - Camping World info.jpg  
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Old 12-02-2015, 05:12 PM   #14
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Since I'm not going to do the inverter thing, wouldn't I just need the 30amp hinged input. Maybe can't do it that way because it uses a smaller hole in the TT. For now I think I'll just cut down the pigtail to 3' and install a male 30amp connector. Then add a female connector on the cord that I cut off and use it like you did for the extension cord to reach the power post.
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Old 12-02-2015, 06:46 PM   #15
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You can install one of these if you want. Automatic cut-over switch.
Don
Attached Thumbnails
INVERTERS - POWER MAX 30-50 AMP.jpg  
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2013 Jayco Eagle 284BHS
250Watt Grape Solar Panel, MorningStar MPPT 60 Charge Controller
1500 Watt Ramsond PSI, 2 Trojan T145 Batteries (260Ah)
2 - AirSight Wireless IP Cameras (used as rear view cameras)
EnGenius WI-FI extender, D-Link wireless (n) modem
MagicJack Internet Phone
2012 Ford F150XLT, EcoBoost w/3.73
157" Wheel base, HD Towing Package

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Old 12-02-2015, 07:47 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Mustang65 View Post
Sorry for the delay on the response, I could not find the bill of sale for the Furrion outlet, or the model number. I tried finding it on the internet, with no luck. May have discontinued that model.

What TT/RV are you modifying? What is on the back side of the exterior outlet?

Don
Its a 2015 195RB. The "compartment" that the cord goes into appears to be behind the converter box, just below the furnace. There is no access to that area from inside.

I'll just pull out the cord, cut it off, attach it to the back of the inlet, and then push the short cord back in while screwing the new Furion from the outside.

While you reused the original port and cover I'll use the complete new assembly.
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Old 12-02-2015, 08:27 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by gypsmjim View Post

While you reused the original port and cover I'll use the complete new assembly.
I used the original cover because the new cover mounting holes did no line up with it.
Don
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Old 12-03-2015, 08:44 AM   #18
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I used the original cover because the new cover mounting holes did no line up with it.
Don
My plan is to mount the new box to a piece of white UHMW, and then drill the new plate to match the existing holes.
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Old 12-03-2015, 08:36 PM   #19
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OK...last question.

All the parts came in today. Ready to go.

Now, when I pull out the cord, how do I know when its out all the way? Other than resistance.....duh!.

I have thoughts of pulling hard and having it break off at the other end...LOL. Is it secured to the frame so you can't pull the wires loose?
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Old 12-04-2015, 09:39 AM   #20
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When you remove the exterior cover plate, the hole will be about 2", and you will be able to see inside with a flash light.
Don
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