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Old 04-05-2013, 10:36 AM   #31
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Exjay1 -- just a follow-up question. You informed us that the new gasket is thicker than the older one (which I would expect since the new gasket hasn't been compressed by the AC unit). What about the other supports on the rear-end of the unit? (ie, see the "yummy" pic that shows the footprint of two square and one cross-member rubber supports; see also the second pic in post #6) Should those be replaced, too, due to the new, thicker gasket? or does the unit sit firmly on those rear rubber supports once the unit has been tightened to the mounting bracket? Thanks.
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Old 04-05-2013, 10:47 AM   #32
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Good question and yes was a tiny bit higher than the old one. I cut up the old flat gasket and gorilla glued them to the orig ones to make up the diffrence.
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Old 07-09-2013, 11:28 PM   #33
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replacing a/c gasket

Hi there, read your article on replacing the a/c gasket. I was wondering about the roof of the trailer as far as how much weight can it support? Did you need help to remove the unit and so where you both on the roof. I have no idea of the structural strength of the roof. Knowing my luck I would probably cave it in or something.
Thanks for input
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:56 PM   #34
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What model do you have? Ours is a light weight 165 Jayfeather. I weigh in at a whopping 135lbs and had no probs with walking around on the roof. if your concerned, lay down a few small sheets of 3/8 plywood around the AC unit to walk around on. I did this all with no help from another person. Just remove/disconnect everything then lay unit over on its side onto a piece of plywwod/blanket while the seal area is preped/installed then reverse procedure. If you need help picking up the unit and still concerned about the roof weight limits, maybe have someone push up from inside while your removing or putting back into place.
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Old 07-15-2013, 12:56 PM   #35
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Thanks for the reply, I weigh 225 so I think ill take your advice and add some plywood. I too have a 165 jay feather sport, could you tell me where the by pass valve is to the water heater? I couldn't see it in back of the trailer where the heater is housed. I'm new to all this and am trying to familiarize myself with the camper. Also, I'm not sure how the low drain valve works? I tried to drain the fresh water holding tank but the valves kept turning never seeming to stop.
thanks
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Old 07-16-2013, 07:59 PM   #36
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No problem. If you have the same little black "T" handle valves for the low point drain they pull up to open, not turn. Our bypass valves are right on the back of the water heater (3 turn stye valves) under the bed. Our TT was previously owned so Im not sure if was installed at the factory or an aftermarket kit.
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:55 AM   #37
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Awesome!

Very good post! The pics are well done and the descriptions are right on. So was your gasket leaking or was this general maintainance?
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Old 09-05-2014, 11:11 PM   #39
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Exjay1, thank you for showing all those great pics for changing out that troublesome gasket that many RVers don't know about. Those picks are worth a few $1.000.00 dollars to all of us. Water can travel from that location in 4 directions and you would have no clue where it came from. Again thank you from all of us on this one.
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Old 09-22-2014, 11:12 AM   #40
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I am very interested in this pictures that go along with the post. can you please share them.

Thanks!
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