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Old 12-18-2015, 09:29 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by TCNASHVILLE View Post
Bob, just a couple of things. Would it be possible for someone to put their thumb over the open end of the winterizing valve and see if it pumps up? [valve not totally sealing] Or it could be the fresh water valve which appears to be open but not totally open. This would cause hammering. Or it could be the fresh water line pickup in the tank is partially clogged, also causing hammer. There could be a hole in a line somewhere between the fresh tank and pump. If you've ever removed the lines from the pump, there's a 1/4" long, circular gasket that must be in there or she'll suck air/water. Lastly, the seals have dried out in your pump requiring replacement. All this assuming the water heater is on bypass.
All VERY good suggestions!

Thank you! The FIRST thing I did (still at the park immediately after my wife told me there was no water) was switch the valves over to "Winterization" mode and put my finger over the hose; no suction at all. And the pressure side of the pump had water because this was right after I disconnected from city water after using the trailer for 2 days.

Right now, it's working better than when it was new. The ONLY thing I have actually done is remove the particulate screen on the low-pressure side of the pump and clean it. It was not dirty enough to block flow from what I could tell, but as soon as I took it off, rinsed it out and put it back on, it picked up water. Could be coincidence.

Immediately after it started working again, the pump was hammering while I was testing it (standing there scratching my head). Then I decided to try to quiet things down some and put foam pipe insulation around some of the piping. When I was finishing up that project, my son fell out of the trailer down the stairs onto the concrete driveway (he's just fine, hardly noticed, just a little startled). That's the last I got to work on it. I ordered an accumulator tank on Amazon that night; that was Sunday.

Night before last, I was loading some things up, and needed to wash my hands. Pump worked like a champ. Relatively quiet, smooth, plenty of constant pressure, no hammering. Last night I ran the faucet for about 3 minutes just to see that it would continue on that way, and it has. My FW tank has been full since that first screen cleaning, and I wanted to drain some off so as not to carry a bunch of water I don't need this weekend.

So the frustrating part is that it seems to be intermittent. If I leave the trailer for a day, everything stays happy. No leaks, the pump comes right up, builds pressure, runs smooth. With time constraints, all I can do is think about this stuff. I won't get a chance to really put my hands on it and diagnose and work on it until next week.

Part of me wonders if it's the seals in the pump drying out in storage. That's why the question about putting a little AF in the pump during storage. I use air to winterize and drain ALL the water out every time I store it, so that pump is stored pretty much dry every time. I'm wondering if perhaps I need to change my routine a little?
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2014 Jay Flight 28 BHBE
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Blue Ox SwayPro (BXW 1503)

Upgraded from an REI internal frame backpack and a Eureka 1/2 dome tent!
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Old 12-18-2015, 11:19 AM   #12
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Unquestionably, a 'false prime' from the antifreeze pickup helps tremendously!


Fill the freshwater tank.
With the faucets closed, and the water heater still in winter mode, set the valves to draw from a gallon or so bottle using the bypass.


Run the pump to pressurize using the water in the bottle. A gallon should be enough. If not, turn off the pump before it draws air.


Change the valves to draw from the tank. Finish pressurizing if needed. Then include the water heater and finish purging the air.


Refill the fresh water tank.
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Old 12-18-2015, 11:24 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike837go View Post
Unquestionably, a 'false prime' from the antifreeze pickup helps tremendously!


Fill the freshwater tank.
With the faucets closed, and the water heater still in winter mode, set the valves to draw from a gallon or so bottle using the bypass.


Run the pump to pressurize using the water in the bottle. A gallon should be enough. If not, turn off the pump before it draws air.


Change the valves to draw from the tank. Finish pressurizing if needed. Then include the water heater and finish purging the air.


Refill the fresh water tank.
That may be my process with one small tweak. Since even from the winterization hose, I don't get suction, I would have to add water to that hose for the "false prime" with a funnel via gravity.

I'm still curious if I'm doing damage to the pump by storing it dry. Wondering if that's what's causing my issues.

Does any one else store with their pump dry?
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2014 Jay Flight 28 BHBE
2015 RAM 2500 6.4L HEMI, Tradesman 4x4, 3.73
Blue Ox SwayPro (BXW 1503)

Upgraded from an REI internal frame backpack and a Eureka 1/2 dome tent!
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Old 12-18-2015, 11:47 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Camper_bob View Post
That may be my process with one small tweak. Since even from the winterization hose, I don't get suction, I would have to add water to that hose for the "false prime" with a funnel via gravity.

I'm still curious if I'm doing damage to the pump by storing it dry. Wondering if that's what's causing my issues.

Does any one else store with their pump dry?
According to the manual, they can be run dry indefinitely. Until the battery runs out or the wobble plate wears at the bearing.

I've had the older pumps apart. The rubber bits do dry out over time. But since one side is ALWAYS exposed to room air, I would suspect that leaving the pump empty won't be a problem. However, if the pump has any clear water in it when it is exposed to below freezing temperatures, small internal bits of plastic, nylon or rubber will be damaged.

It's much better to fill the pump with anti-freeze than rely on a blow out. There are no drains on the pump.
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Old 12-21-2015, 09:45 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by mike837go View Post
According to the manual, they can be run dry indefinitely. Until the battery runs out or the wobble plate wears at the bearing.

I've had the older pumps apart. The rubber bits do dry out over time. But since one side is ALWAYS exposed to room air, I would suspect that leaving the pump empty won't be a problem. However, if the pump has any clear water in it when it is exposed to below freezing temperatures, small internal bits of plastic, nylon or rubber will be damaged.

It's much better to fill the pump with anti-freeze than rely on a blow out. There are no drains on the pump.
Good deal. Thanks Mike.

This weekend, it all worked flawlessly. I still have the accumulator tank in the box until I get some time to install it the way I want. I want to isolate it and the pump on a vibration dampening apparatus, and I'm still deciding exactly how I'm going to do that.

With the holidays upon us, I'm struggling to find time to get out there and tinker. I probably have a full day of work to do on the trailer including inspect and wash roof, wash/wax outside, detailed deep cleaning of inside, install another light in the front pass-thru storage, install and plumb accumulator tank, etc.

I think we have maybe one or two trips left before she goes to sleep for the Spring and then I won't have her back home until late April or May.
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2014 Jay Flight 28 BHBE
2015 RAM 2500 6.4L HEMI, Tradesman 4x4, 3.73
Blue Ox SwayPro (BXW 1503)

Upgraded from an REI internal frame backpack and a Eureka 1/2 dome tent!
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Old 01-21-2016, 08:24 AM   #16
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Update:

After storing the trailer for about a month, I brought it home for a trip that has since been scrubbed due to illness. Anyway, before we decided to scrub the trip, I wetted down the trailer as I always do. I connected city water to pressurize/fill all the water lines and the water heater. Then I filled the fresh tanks with ~35 gallons (my standard traveling complement of fresh water for "incidentals"). This is all my normal procedure; I do it EXACTLY the same EVERY TIME. I disconnected from city water source, and turned on the pump. I opened the kitchen faucet, and in about 45 seconds or less, the pump picked up prime and began pumping away like a champ! Which is great, right? But WHY did it work this time right away whereas before it took significant coaxing? I hate intermittent problems.
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2015 RAM 2500 6.4L HEMI, Tradesman 4x4, 3.73
Blue Ox SwayPro (BXW 1503)

Upgraded from an REI internal frame backpack and a Eureka 1/2 dome tent!
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