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06-10-2017, 08:32 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Racine
Posts: 28
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Any reason to NOT run Norcold 3-way fridge on DC while plugged into shore power
New Jay Series pop-up owner. My fridge runs on propane and DC fine. I don't seem to get any cooling when on AC. I ran it on DC while connected to shore power during my initial shake down testing. Then I discovered a dusty faded label in the fridge control area that said Do Not Run Refrigerator on DC While Plugged into Shore Power.
I could not find that warning in the owners manual, Norcold website or the forums. What's the down side?
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__________________
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Eric & Susan
2009 Jay Series 1007
2015 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited
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06-10-2017, 09:03 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 9,773
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Have you checked the 120 volt circuit breaker? The frig should also be connected to a gfi outlet chain. Wit that said does you outside outlet work?
If that does not fix the issue, pull the outside service panel, and you should find a small fuse check it.
The issue probably is, you need to replace the electric heating element. That is harder to troubleshoot to ensure that is the issue. But a freind had to replies last fall. 2 way frig, worked on gas not electric. New electric element and it worked great.
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06-10-2017, 10:22 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Racine
Posts: 28
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Any reason to NOT run Norcold 3-way fridge on DC while plugged into shore power
All the 120 outlets work, including the one the fridge plugs into. GCFI tests and resets good. Fuses looked good. I wasn't getting power to the 120 spade connectors in the outside service panel. So, I'm guessing it's the element. Which does look like a bigger repair job.
In the mean time, what would be the problem with running on DC while plugged into shore power? Bad for battery or converter?
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Eric & Susan
2009 Jay Series 1007
2015 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited
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06-15-2017, 10:13 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Fortuna Foothills
Posts: 1,862
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagiven
Have you checked the 120 volt circuit breaker? The frig should also be connected to a gfi outlet chain. Wit that said does you outside outlet work?
If that does not fix the issue, pull the outside service panel, and you should find a small fuse check it.
The issue probably is, you need to replace the electric heating element. That is harder to troubleshoot to ensure that is the issue. But a freind had to replies last fall. 2 way frig, worked on gas not electric. New electric element and it worked great.
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Refrigerators in RV's are not required by the NEC (section 551.41C) to be wired to GFCI's and industry standards are to not wire a refrigerator on a GFCI circuit because the GFCI can trip and you may incur spoiled food.
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06-15-2017, 12:58 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Saskatoon Sask Canada
Posts: 10,726
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I'm not sure but I think that is a pretty high amp output for the converter on a constant basis.. I'd flip it over to gas and be done with it.. They don't use that much propane and the propane seems to cool the fridge better than power..
__________________
Seann
2004 Chev Silverado Duramax optioned past the max. 2009 Jayco Eagle 308 RLS 900watts of solar, Lithium batteries (400amp hour), 2000 watt (4000 surge) whole house inverter.
145days /2023 2022/151 2021[/COLOR]
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06-19-2017, 04:24 AM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Racine
Posts: 28
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Thanks for the input. I think I'm going to go with DC and propane for now. Investigating the 120 element replacement will be later project.
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__________________
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Eric & Susan
2009 Jay Series 1007
2015 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited
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06-28-2017, 07:51 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Kingman AZ and where our Seneca is today.
Posts: 3,118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seann45
I'm not sure but I think that is a pretty high amp output for the converter on a constant basis.. I'd flip it over to gas and be done with it.. They don't use that much propane and the propane seems to cool the fridge better than power..
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On our prior motorhome... we had to replace the 110v heater element a couple of times (used a LOT). Ours was a 3-way 110/12/LP fridge and when it was broken on 110, we found that it worked best on Gas as an alternative. and the worst on 12v. it takes a lot of power from your converter to run it on 12v, and gas was way more efficient.
Read up on Google and some of the YouTube sites - replacing the 110v heater is not as hard as you might think, it took me about two hours on my first try. Take good pictures of the wiring on the unit before you take it apart... and MAKE SURE the AC power is OFF from the RV!
oh... and another lesson learned - test the heater element you buy - BEFORE you start to install it... make sure it is the correct wattage and is not "Open" when you test the terminals.
__________________
Steve & Stacy with Jasper (Australian Cattle dog)
2015 Seneca 36FK
Custom 27' flatbed trailer hauling:
07 Toyota FJC & Yamaha Kodiak 400 ATV
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06-28-2017, 10:39 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 1,855
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seann45
I'm not sure but I think that is a pretty high amp output for the converter on a constant basis.. I'd flip it over to gas and be done with it.. They don't use that much propane and the propane seems to cool the fridge better than power..
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For a small Norcold 2.7 cu. ft. unit it's listed as 12amps when using 12vdc. A 4.5 cu. ft unit is over 14amps. We tend to run ours on propane most of the time as it does cool better than on 120vac.
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06-28-2017, 10:43 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Racine
Posts: 28
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Any reason to NOT run Norcold 3-way fridge on DC while plugged into shore power
Thanks for all the input. Since the 12v and gas work I'm not in a crunch to replace the 120 element. But good to know that it's doable in the driveway[emoji41]
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__________________
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Eric & Susan
2009 Jay Series 1007
2015 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited
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