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Old 03-24-2012, 04:03 PM   #41
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Thanks for the info, Karl. I stand...er...sit corrected.

What I'm really interested in is how you route the wire.
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Old 03-24-2012, 08:25 PM   #42
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And that will be the key. Have to finish the bedroom TV installation, then I may run the wire, I'll take lots of notes, I'm certain it's doable by soldering, taping and heat shrinking, then removing everything in the ceiling that you can, and pull, push and make up new words that the kids can't repeat
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Old 03-24-2012, 08:44 PM   #43
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I am camping now enjoy the light heat from my heat strip.
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Old 03-24-2012, 10:53 PM   #44
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Not sure what I am more jealous of, the heat strip or you're camping now?
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Old 03-24-2012, 11:07 PM   #45
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Not sure what I am more jealous of, the heat strip or you're camping now?
x2 LOL
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Old 03-24-2012, 11:20 PM   #46
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...I'm certain it's doable by soldering, taping and heat shrinking, then removing everything in the ceiling that you can, and pull, push and make up new words that the kids can't repeat
I was thinking along the same lines. The splice is going to be the tricky part since it will make the cable inflexible at that point. Make the inflexible part too long and it may not make the turn into the wall. I have been thinking of pulling from the opening in the wall but I wonder now if it might be easer to pull from the ceiling opening and push up from the hole in the wall. Also, it might be easier if you had someone pushing up on the cable while you are pulling. Slipping a piece of fairly rigid tubing over the cable long enough to reach the ceiling and stick out the hole a bit might make pushing the cable up a bit easier (it would essentially stiffen the cable). Once the new cable has been pulled, the tube can be "slud" back off the cable.

I don't have any kids at home anymore so I don't have to worry about any colorful language as long as I keep the volume down. I still remember having to be creative so the little two legged parrots wouldn't repeat anything that would be too embarrassing when (not if) they repeated it. It became a habit that still persists (somewhat).
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Old 03-25-2012, 03:05 AM   #47
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Yes you can get the element for the 15k AC ducted system. You can also install the digital t-stat that you switch to electric heat to run the system. I learned this recently from another forum from a guy who got the model numbers from the manufacturer. I don't know why I was told it wasn't avaible when I inquired about it before. Just happy that I can get it.
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Old 03-25-2012, 08:13 AM   #48
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The thermostat wire consists of the wires encased in a plastic sheathing. I thought about taking the original wires and stripping about a foot of sheathing then cutting the wires at varying lengths, solder the new leads to the original, tape it up and try to fish it through. Doing it this way will minimize the inflexible portion of the splice and it will also keep the spliced area from being too thick to go through any holes.
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Old 03-25-2012, 10:12 AM   #49
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Not sure what I am more jealous of, the heat strip or you're camping now?



Quote:
Originally Posted by dmax_83 View Post
x2 LOL

Sorry I posted it...well not really sorry. I am very happy I am camping. Going home today. Work tomorrow...........
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2010 Jayco 17Z Ex-Port
2004 Ford Explorer V8 with the tow package
2010 Camping Stats
Nights Camping 132 - Nights Camping in My Z 102
2011 Camping Stats
Nights Camping 107
2012 Camping Stats
Nights camping 133 - Nights camping in my Z 128
2013 Camping Stats
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Old 01-15-2013, 09:09 PM   #50
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This is correct. If you look at this Coleman pdf: http://www.coastdistribution.com/PDF...uct%20Page.pdf
...it shows ALL models available with a heat strip whether ducted or not. The difference is the control box in the upper unit and a different ADB (Air Distribution Box). I converted 4 Coleman Polar Cubs and 1 Coleman Mach III to have heat strips completely by the book. For most models of Coleman 13.5 units, you need an 8330B735 (65192) kit which is an ADB, Control Box and Heat Strip and runs roughly $160. For your thermostat you have a few options.

For all options, you will need another single wire run from your thermostat to your upper unit along with the other thermostat wires:

1) If your thermostat doesn't have a Heat setting on it, you need to purchase one that does.

2) You can purchase a thermostat that can control a furnace AND has an electric heat option.

3) If your thermostat already controls a furnace and you want it to continue to do so, you can add a second thermostat (like a cheap heat-only one from Home Depot) just to run the heat strip. I personally don't recommend this method as it will require some creative wiring in the upper unit so that the second thermostat will always run the blower.

4) If your thermostat already controls a furnace and you want to be able to switch between the heat strip and furnace, run your white heat wire from your thermostat through an on-off-on toggle switch with the thermostat wire going to the center pole, and your furnace and heat strip wires going to the opposing poles. I recommend this method as there can't be any conflict in the outgoing signal from the thermostat....it will run one or the other or nothing based on the toggle switch position.

I understand that running that extra wire can be an issue for some and don't really have any sound advice in that department. I was lucky in-that my thermostat wires running to my upper unit were not "attached" to anything along the way through the wall and ceiling. I was able to attach a strong string to my wires in the upper unit, pull the wires back through to the thermostat, attach the new white heat wire and re-pull it all back through with the string.
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