Jayco RV Owners Forum
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 02-24-2013, 03:55 PM   #11
Moderator Emeritus
 
Doug's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 4,761
Wil,
Wasn't there a section where once it goes into lock-out mode you have to go through a procedure to clear that?

Doug
__________________

__________________

Southwest, Ohio
2016 Toyota Tundra SR5, 5.7 V8
2017 Jayco 24RBS
Doug is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2013, 04:56 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
tinlizzie23's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Luray, VA (central Shenandoah Valley of VA)
Posts: 1,416
I had the same problem with my Atwood DSI WH. Replaced the ECO/Thermostat assembly, and that cured the problem. ECO stands for energy cut off, and both it and the new thermostat comes in a replacement kit that requires about 15 minutes to replace. I got mine on ebay for around $15 or so. You just need to know your Atwood model # to be sure you get the correct kit.
__________________

__________________
2003 Ford F-350 V-10 Crew Cab 4WD Long Bed
2004 Jayco Designer Medallion 29 RLTS 5th wheel
Bill, Gayle, and Mindi (dachshund)
Retired at last !

Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.
tinlizzie23 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2013, 04:58 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
RVhiker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,253
I believe to get it out of lock out mode all you have to do is to turn the refrigerator off and then back on.

I had this exact issue recently. In my case, the end of the spark igniter was not in the flame enough. I bent it deeper into the flame by pressing gently on the sparker holder frame. Don't press on the sparker itself as it can easily break. If the end of your sparker is getting red hot (which mine was not) you could just try out a new sparker igniter and see if that fixes it.
__________________
There's lots of advice and information in forums... sometimes it is correct. For example, all of my posts are made by a political appointee who got the job as a reward for contributions to my diesel bill.

2011 Jayco 28.5RLS; 2008 Chevy Duramax; Pullrite Superglide Hitch

RVhiker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2013, 05:33 PM   #14
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 48
In the owner's manual it says, "If heater fails to operate due to high water temperature, a lockout condition occurs (indicator light on). After water cools, reset switch in OFF position for at least 30 seconds, then turn to ON position."

Otherwise, you just cycle the switch for another go at it.

When I switch it on, the lockout light is lit. All good there. Then the spark begins and the burner lights. While the burner is going, the lockout light is out. When the spark and burner quit, the lockout light comes back on.

I can hear the solenoid open for the initial start and then I hear it close when it quits. Not sure what a dual solenoid valve is supposed to do but you would think one part opens first for the initial start and then the second part is activated by the flame sensor. Funny thing is there are two hot wires to feed this dual solenoid gas valve but both wires originate at the same terminal on the ECO. switch. If one part of the dual solenoid valve is energized, the other part is also energized at the same time because they're both being fed by what is fundamentally the same wire.

This seems to indicate the flame sensor isn't feeling a flame so all power is cut to the gas valve. I wonder how this flame sensor is supposed to work? There's only one wire leading to this electrode/flame sensor assembly from the circuit board.

I've adjusted the electrode bracket to put the tips further into the flame but I'm pretty sure they're not getting red hot.

Will look for one of those ECO. kits.

Thanks.
__________________
Wil - Alabama Gulf Coast
1994 K3500 LBCC DRW Diesel 155,000 miles
2001 Jayco Eagle 285 BH 5th wheel
A32319 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2013, 08:28 PM   #15
Moderator Emeritus
 
Doug's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 4,761
Sounds like you on the right track Wil.
Some good input.
Keep us posted.
I also found this troubleshooting list concerning the ground.

PROBLEM: Furnace comes on for 7-10 seconds then turns off
Possible Solution:
•Turn off power and gas to the furnace
•Remove flame sensor from its bracket. Lightly clean the surface with fine emery cloth and replace.
•The problem may also lie in a bad ground or the the black and white wires being reversed (reversed polarity) at the junction box or outlet powering the furnace.
•The electronic ignition control module must ensure current flow through the flame sensor to ground and if the polarity is reversed in the circuit there is no voltage potential and the flame sensor does not work and closes the gas valve.
•If the black and white wires are connected correctly and the flame still drops out, then the issue may be a bad ground. Using a volt-ohm meter, measure between the white wire and the ground wire to be sure you have no voltage.
•If this does not work, replace the flame sensor. See Replacing an Electronic Flame Sensor.

http://homerepair.about.com/od/heati...eplacement.htm


Best regards,
Doug
__________________

Southwest, Ohio
2016 Toyota Tundra SR5, 5.7 V8
2017 Jayco 24RBS
Doug is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2013, 01:47 PM   #16
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 48
I installed a new electrode assembly yesterday. No joy.

ECO/t'stat kit will be arriving soon.

Doug: I just saw your edit. There is only a single conductor feeding the flame sensor/electrode assembly. This comes from the circuit board.
__________________
Wil - Alabama Gulf Coast
1994 K3500 LBCC DRW Diesel 155,000 miles
2001 Jayco Eagle 285 BH 5th wheel
A32319 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2013, 02:04 PM   #17
Moderator Emeritus
 
Doug's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 4,761
Wil,
I hope the ECO/t'stat kit does it for you.

After a few purchases, it will still be cheaper than dealer and we'll all learn something.

Keep us posted.

Best regards,
Doug
__________________

Southwest, Ohio
2016 Toyota Tundra SR5, 5.7 V8
2017 Jayco 24RBS
Doug is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2013, 07:33 PM   #18
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 48
The ECO/t'stat kit Atwood sent me was in the pile for a while. I installed it today. No change.
__________________
Wil - Alabama Gulf Coast
1994 K3500 LBCC DRW Diesel 155,000 miles
2001 Jayco Eagle 285 BH 5th wheel
A32319 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2013, 07:44 PM   #19
Moderator Emeritus
 
Doug's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 4,761
Sorry to hear that Wil
Frustrating I am sure.
What are you thinking for a next step? Circuit board?

Best regards,
Doug
__________________

Southwest, Ohio
2016 Toyota Tundra SR5, 5.7 V8
2017 Jayco 24RBS
Doug is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2013, 08:33 PM   #20
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 48
I guess there's only two more things it can be. The circuit board or the dual solenoid valve. I'll see what the Atwood man thinks about it.
__________________

__________________
Wil - Alabama Gulf Coast
1994 K3500 LBCC DRW Diesel 155,000 miles
2001 Jayco Eagle 285 BH 5th wheel
A32319 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Virginia State Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:55 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright 2002-2016 Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.