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Old 04-02-2020, 04:37 PM   #1
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Water Heater Leaking 2016 Seismic 4312

The electric part of the water heater stopped working. Went out and saw it was leaking.

Did Google search and ensured it was not extra pressure, or drain plug.

Cut away a bit of the undercarriage and saw its leaking somewhere off the back of the unit. However there is no way to get to it that I can see. I-beam and freshwater tank appears to be in my way.

Took closest access panel off and the bypass switch box and water pump are in between the water heater and me.

To clarify for any one who may be able to help- the electric was the indicator but it appeared to be leaking for a while and I didn't notice.

I tried the gas and it heated water.

I then drained and refilled tank just to make sure there were no debris or too much pressure.

It still leaked after filling it back up; even after bypassing- I am assuming that is the water in the tank.

It also will not work with propane either now.

Does anyone have any suggestions on next action? It seems I have to get to rear of unit. Then figure out why the electric stopped. Maybe water leak caused the electrical problem? Then- why wouldn't gas side still work?

Would I be better off calling a repairman? Im no expert on these things. Plus Ive gone 2 days without a shower and Im starting to stink...probably-can't smell myself.

Thanks in advance for any help

Dean
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Old 04-02-2020, 04:42 PM   #2
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The water connections to the tank are notorious for loosening up from vibration. Usually it's a easy fix by removing and reattaching with some teflon tape.

If you are handy and double jointed that needs to be repaired before troubleshooting. A mobile tech may be able to handle both.

What's that smell?
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Old 04-02-2020, 04:45 PM   #3
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Haha- at least I warned ya---you saying I could get to those connections?
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Old 04-02-2020, 04:47 PM   #4
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Haha- at least I warned ya---you saying I could get to those connections?
I don't know how large you are! or where access could be gained on a Seneca. I can reach mine on a fifth wheel easily.
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Old 04-02-2020, 04:52 PM   #5
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I don't know how large you are! or where access could be gained on a Seneca. I can reach mine on a fifth wheel easily.
5th Wheel- 43 feet
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Old 04-02-2020, 04:54 PM   #6
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5th Wheel- 43 feet
Sorry, I got my Seneca and my Seismic confused. Same answer! I have to remove a panel in my large storage to get to mine.
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Old 04-02-2020, 05:52 PM   #7
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Though I do not have a Seismic, I have had two Jayco units. Both had an access from the rear of the water heater on the inside. You said you removed an access panel from the inside, but is there a possibility there is another panel or approach. It's unlikely the factory assembly would be possible without access to the back. There are plumbing connections and wiring that should be serviceable from inside the unit.
I agree with Norty that you may have a simple fitting that needs to be tightened, your heater is not old enough to expect a leak in the tank or it's components.
As for the failure to work on electric first, and then on gas, it does seem there is something going on. The electric heating element is installed from the rear. If your leak is in the rear, it could be related to the electric heating element or it's gasket. The controls for your heater's operation are on the front side. If you had no water leaking in the area under the relief valve where the control board is, then you should not have a leak related control failure.
There are several variables here, so it will be a process of elimination.
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Old 04-02-2020, 06:34 PM   #8
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I recently swapped out my tankless water heater for a Suburban 6 gallon propane/electric model in my 2017 Greyhawk. I can't see any way they could connect pex tubing to the back of the tank without having an access panel. My access was a grill inside the coach right below the oven. That is where the water heater was located.

If you tank is leaking and you don't see any problem through the outside access panel, there are only so many spots that it can leak from. On the back of the tank are 2 pipe connections - cold input and hot output. On my tank these were hand-tightened plastic fittings. If they loosen up they will leak. This reminds me I need to check mine to see if they need snugging up. If they are not leaking, the tank may have rusted through in which case it is adios water heater.

I believe the other possible leak points would have access from the outside. This would be the electric element, pressure relief valve, and anode. It may have a separate drain, I don't know. Mine didn't.
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Old 04-02-2020, 07:06 PM   #9
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Atwood WH's do not have a anode so that can be eliminated.
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Old 04-03-2020, 11:27 AM   #10
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My 2016 - 10 gal Atwood developed a leak last season.. It was the gray plastic fittings that screw into the back of the tank.. I removed and applied some pipe sealer. It's been good ever since..
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Old 04-03-2020, 04:44 PM   #11
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Thats just it- I can't get to the back of the damn thing. Beacuse of where it is located, right under my tub and shower, it doesn't seem to have inside access. I even pulled out my fireplace, hoping I could at least see it.

Im missing something. Does anyone have a Seismic, or know anyone with one, who may be able to help? If I can get in there, Im sure I can fix that part and start troubleshooting the electric issue from there.

Good news is I just bit the bullet and took the freezing ass shower, so at least now you wont smell me.
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Old 04-03-2020, 05:07 PM   #12
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Dean - reach out to theracqueteer He has a thread going about moving an outlet and has a 2017 Seismic 4113
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Old 04-03-2020, 05:11 PM   #13
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Thread moved to fifth wheel forum.
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Old 04-13-2020, 05:47 PM   #14
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For anyone encountering this same problem in the future- access to this is through the basement; take off 2 walls that are around your water pump and control center. Move AC ducts out of the way and...Voila'. Your in.

Now I have to figure out what that electrical box is on the backl because that is what the water was dripping onto.

I see a green wire-maybe a ground?, - that is hanging back there. The electrical work in there looks pretty shoddy anyway, a little black tape over power terminals, so I don't have that much confidence that its supposed to be connected to anything. There is also a small duct hose just hanging there too and have no idea where it goes to. Does Jayco routinely leave wires and ducts hanging that don't need to be connected to anything?

Top connection came off without force- so Im assuming all I need is to retape and retighten. Then figure out what it shorted out because of the drip.

ANy experts have anything for me- It'll be welcomed
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Old 04-13-2020, 06:08 PM   #15
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Quote:
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For anyone encountering this same problem in the future- access to this is through the basement; take off 2 walls that are around your water pump and control center. Move AC ducts out of the way and...Voila'. Your in.

Now I have to figure out what that electrical box is on the backl because that is what the water was dripping onto.

I see a green wire-maybe a ground?, - that is hanging back there. The electrical work in there looks pretty shoddy anyway, a little black tape over power terminals, so I don't have that much confidence that its supposed to be connected to anything. There is also a small duct hose just hanging there too and have no idea where it goes to. Does Jayco routinely leave wires and ducts hanging that don't need to be connected to anything?

Top connection came off without force- so Im assuming all I need is to retape and retighten. Then figure out what it shorted out because of the drip.

ANy experts have anything for me- It'll be welcomed

I think the box on the back you reference is the electric element access and the relay for it's 110V contacts. I had to replace my relay on an older water heater, and that's where it was. If you did get water inside that box, it could well have damaged the relay or other components. It's also slightly possible it may work when dried completely, but I would inspect it.
You certainly need to be sure you have found and fixed the source of the leak and then tackle the electrical components. Just be sure you have turned off the 110V circuit breaker for the water heater before you touch any of those wires. Even better, if you work without the camper hooked up to shore power, all the better.
The small duct you refer to I assume is the same type as the heat ducts that go everywhere, and is intended to be left open to heat that area where you have a lot of water lines etc. Just double check to be sure it isn't supposed to be a heat duct to a small bathroom heat vent.
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