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Old 12-20-2014, 02:38 PM   #1
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Battery disconnect switch

I have a new Whitehawk 27DSRL with TWO batteries and want to install a battery disconnect switch. Is there any reason to get the 4 position switch to enable disconnecting battery 1, battery 2, or both? Or just get the 2 position switch to disconnect both batteries at once?

Next question: Blue Sea or Perko or other; which is better?

Does it matter if you place it in the positive or negative line?
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Old 12-20-2014, 03:09 PM   #2
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I would have one that will let me run both batteries and charge at the same time. Also have the option to run from battery 1 or battery 2. Also have a all off posoition. I would also think about installing a ACR (Automatic Charge Relay) that automates charging of a second battery

This is a great on.... Blue Sea Systems 7649 Mini Add-A-Battery system with Battery Switch and ACR
http://www.wholesalemarine.com/blue-...FceCfgodMDIAfg

https://www.bluesea.com/products/900...witch_with_AFD



http://www.delcity.net/store/Battery...FciEfgod3TwATA

http://www.wikihow.com/Attach-a-Battery-Cut-off-Switch

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Old 12-21-2014, 09:58 AM   #3
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I have a somewhat simpler system than cbss, but it works for me. I have three Group 27 12 volt batteries; my system treats them as all one battery - that is, they are all discharged at the same time and all charged at the same time.

I chose to put my battery disconnect (which is a simple on/off switch) on the positive wire that feeds my interior 12 volt system (lights, pump, heater, slide out, propane leak detector, etc.); items which do not go through this distribution system are the front landing legs, the rear electric jack, and the emergency disconnect trailer brakes. So, the interior power consumers are disconnected, but my trailer disconnect brake and the exterior jacks are still connected.

However you choose to connect your system, to be legal (and safer) your emergency disconnect brake system should remain without a switch - that is, it is always connected.

My switch is a Blue Sea switch similar to this one, which had been faultless; I can't comment on the quality of other brands because I just don't know.
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Old 12-21-2014, 10:26 AM   #4
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For BEST battery results, longest battery life and ease of operation, leave both batteries wired in parallel and put the battery disconnect switch on the lead feeding the TT from the batteries. This guarantees that BOTH batteries will be charged properly and the Amp hrs are doubled (2 batteries) so there is less of a discharge across the 2 batteries. Once you start using only one at a time there is a good chance that one or both batteries will not receive a full charge and will eventually degrade the battery(s). The TT's battery charge controller on the newer models will easily handle the needed amps.

As for the type of switch... if you are planning on adding additional batteries in the future, I would go with the 2 battery switch, which would allow for more control over multiple battery banks. For your current setup, I would leave the batteries wired in parallel and just use one of the battery connections and if you add additional batteries in the future connect them to the second battery connection.

Just my thoughts,

Don
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Old 12-21-2014, 03:52 PM   #5
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Thanks guys; it looks like Blue Sea 6006m or 9003e will both work; I assume the 6006m with 300A will suffice for my needs? The Perko is about $20 more than the 6006m; so I'm thinking of going with the smaller 6006m. Any reason to get the larger Blue Sea model? or the Perko?
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Old 12-21-2014, 05:07 PM   #6
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[QUOTE=Mustang65;256529]For BEST battery results, longest battery life and ease of operation, leave both batteries wired in parallel and put the battery disconnect switch on the lead feeding the TT from the batteries. This guarantees that BOTH batteries will be charged properly and the Amp hrs are doubled (2 batteries) so there is less of a discharge across the 2 batteries. Once you start using only one at a time there is a good chance that one or both batteries will not receive a full charge and will eventually degrade the battery(s). The TT's battery charge controller on the newer models will easily handle the needed amps.

As for the type of switch... if you are planning on adding additional batteries in the future, I would go with the 2 battery switch, which would allow for more control over multiple battery banks. For your current setup, I would leave the batteries wired in parallel and just use one of the battery connections and if you add additional batteries in the future connect them to the second battery connection.

Just my thoughts,

Ok! I don"t understand why you need a disconnect switch in the first place
What am I missing?
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Old 12-21-2014, 07:06 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardo View Post
Thanks guys; it looks like Blue Sea 6006m or 9003e will both work; I assume the 6006m with 300A will suffice for my needs? The Perko is about $20 more than the 6006m; so I'm thinking of going with the smaller 6006m. Any reason to get the larger Blue Sea model? or the Perko?
I think either switch would work for you. I wanted to panel mount my switch on the luan paneling where my power center is located. I wanted just the handle part of the switch sticking out and the switch guts behind the panel. It's easier to do that with the 6006m than the 9003e. The 6006m requires a 1/2" or 5/8" hole for the handle to go through the panel. To panel mount the 9003e you need a hole the size of the circular part of the switch, 2 or 3 inches. Either could be easily surface mounted, if that is what you want to do.

Unless you want to switch power to a very large consumer of DC power, like a very large inverter, 300 amps should well cover your need.
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Old 12-21-2014, 09:28 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by dennis b View Post

Ok! I don"t understand why you need a disconnect switch in the first place
What am I missing?
There are many reasons for a main disconnect switch. If you do not have a disconnect switch, the only way to disconnect the batteries is either pull the main 30Amp fuse by the battery box (on most TT's) or disconnect the battery cable at the battery post. The battery post option is not rated to high because while loosening the bolt the voltage spikes up and down and the TT's electronics do not like that.

So, after awhile by removing the main fuse to shut down the power to the TT, the fuse/fuse holder contacts will start to oxidize and make for a bad connection and causes a heated/hot fuse case.

Why disconnect.
- If you are leaving your TT in storage for a while the electronics in the TT will drain your battery(s) power to 0. Those radios, fridge circuits, CO2 alarms all use power and will kill your battery in a week or 2 (depending on the type of batteries).
- If you need to clean your battery terminals, it is better to remove the TT's load from your batteries.
- Adding new electronic toys.
- If you have SOLAR it is easier to use a disconnect switch to isolate the batteries from the SOLAR battery charger if working on the circuits.
There are more reasons that others can add....

So most people pull the 30 Amp main fuse at the battery, but the better option is to install a disconnect switch at the battery.

Just my thoughts,
Don
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Old 12-21-2014, 09:55 PM   #9
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The above "Warning" Movie explains something that I recently discovered. My recently purchased 5th had a weak battery. Rather than relying on a single battery I opted to use two in parallel. I purchased two batteries and jumper cables.

One set of jumper cables was fine but the other required some fine adjustments (bending/crimping, etc) to tighten up.

Different size terminals, who woulda thunk?
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Old 12-21-2014, 10:04 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RVhiker View Post
I think either switch would work for you. I wanted to panel mount my switch on the luan paneling where my power center is located. I wanted just the handle part of the switch sticking out and the switch guts behind the panel. It's easier to do that with the 6006m than the 9003e. The 6006m requires a 1/2" or 5/8" hole for the handle to go through the panel. To panel mount the 9003e you need a hole the size of the circular part of the switch, 2 or 3 inches. Either could be easily surface mounted, if that is what you want to do.

Unless you want to switch power to a very large consumer of DC power, like a very large inverter, 300 amps should well cover your need.
[QUOTE=Mustang65;256625]There are many reasons for a main disconnect switch. If you do not have a disconnect switch, the only way to disconnect the batteries is either pull the main 30Amp fuse by the battery box (on most TT's) or disconnect the battery cable at the battery post. The battery post option is not rated to high because while loosening the bolt the voltage spikes up and down and the TT's electronics do not like that.

So, after awhile by removing the main fuse to shut down the power to the TT, the fuse/fuse holder contacts will start to oxidize and make for a bad connection and causes a heated/hot fuse case.

Why disconnect.
- If you are leaving your TT in storage for a while the electronics in the TT will drain your battery(s) power to 0. Those radios, fridge circuits, CO2 alarms all use power and will kill your battery in a week or 2 (depending on the type of batteries).
- If you need to clean your battery terminals, it is better to remove the TT's load from your batteries.
- Adding new electronic toys.
- If you have SOLAR it is easier to use a disconnect switch to isolate the batteries from the SOLAR battery charger if working on the circuits.
There are more reasons that others can add....

So most people pull the 30 Amp main fuse at the battery, but the better option is to install a disconnect switch at the battery.



Got It, Thanks for informing me.
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