Battery Disconnect Wired Wrong from Factory?

[GlampinLife]

Originally Posted by ExChief

Its now working as designed as I see it.

Ok cool, I was hoping someone could confirm that when the battery disconnect was OFF, even when plugged into shore power, nothing inside the camper should work. Thank you for the help on this!

Next project, replace all the bulbs in the outside lights with LED bulbs.

[Gizmopilot]

My 2018 eagle 322rlok was miss wired as well.

It even had a wiring diagram that didn’t match the actual wiring.

It also had some of the wires shorting the circuit breakers making it unsafe.

My wires to the sanicon relay were barely held on as if they only started the nut and got distracted and didn’t finish.

I took a picture of it before correcting the issues.

The way I see it my new warranty is a joke, and only good for Items so expensive to repair that it is worth fighting with them about and dealing with the hassle of taking it back for weeks/loss of use/cost of towinng both ways.

So far my hot water heater control board failed, auto leveler wasn’t set level, battery disconnect was grossly miswired, my top slide seal was laying on the outside top of the slide, one drawer wasn’t secured to the back and the mechanism came out with the drawer. There probably is more that I can’t recall, but my point is I picked this up May 8th and discovered these issues at different times and would have been without my rv for most of the past 3 months if I attempted to get the dealer to “fix” them

I have attached a picture of my miswired battery disconnect and the wiring diagram.

Mine does now actually disconnect most items but will still charge the batteries “disconnected”.

I have also installed a BMV712 battery monitor and noticed that it only trickle charges ( about 6 amps) when disconnected vs getting the full amps from my PD4560 converter during bulk charge mode which is about 45 amps but only with the battery disconnect- connected.

[TxLoser]

Great thread. I'll have to investigate this on mine too. I have to detach the negative lead on the battery or it drains while in storage with the disconnect off. Also, my levelling system works with the disconnect off. Seems it should be a dead trailer with disconnect off.

[theracqueteer]

Back in March I posted a related thread in the toy hauler forum. I have a Seismic 4113. I had to take the unit in for some warranty work andjust recently got it back home. I asked the dealer to check the battery switch and the system as it had a parasitic draw of 0.7 amps, whether the switch was on or off. Told them that if this is correct I wanted to have another disconnect switch installed that would cut off all current except to the emergency brake switch. At this point I needed a new battery and wanted to make sure it would not run down from just being stored. They found the switch was wired incorrectly (apparently from the threads I have read several have been incorrectly wired). Before it was rewired, it behaved much as yours, shutting off the charger to the battery and not much else. It now turns off most power. I draw 0.7 amps with the switch in the on position and no other appliances or lights powered up. With the switch in the off position, draw is 1 milliamp and there is no power to the leveling system. When in the off position and with shore power connected, there is power to the leveling system and the rest of the coach. This is how I would expect it to work. I have included pics. You will see I now have two 6 volt batteries. You will also see a positive cable lead, with the terminal taped, (most likely not necessary to tape but won't hurt anything either) hanging down by the shutoff switch which is not connected. I am not sure what this is for. I assume it is for the Solar on the Side. I asked once at the dealer but anyone who could give me an answer had left for the day and I have forgotten to ask again. If it is for Solar on the Side, does it get connected at the switch or go straight to the positive terminal of the battery?

[JerryJ]

Had the same problem on my 2018 306RKDS. Got the wiring diagram and found that the red and red/white wires were reversed at the 12v fuse panel. One is the charge line and the other is the feed from the battery to the fuses.

[felidoc1]

Wow, at least I'm not the only one who finds this wiring to be mind-boggling. I have recently purchased a 2018 Eagle 325bhqs. I am in the process of switching to Lithium batteries and a battery monitor. At this point, I've removed the old lead-acid patterns and cleaned up the "battery compartment" and I am waiting for my new batteries cables. I don't feel like the electrical system has ever been quite right but the batteries in it are past their prime. When I was removing the batteries I figured I use the battery disconnect switch, disconnect the batteries and all would be good. Only there was still power to the battery cables even with the batteries removed. I then opened the panel where the battery disconnect switch lives and discovered there was indeed still 12V power to one side of the switch. I had to disconnect the shore power to eliminate all power to both sides of the switch. And to compound my confusion the side of the switch that was hot was the side that connects to the batteries and no batteries are connected currently. I think I need an electrician.

[2edgesword]

Originally Posted by felidoc1

Wow, at least I'm not the only one who finds this wiring to be mind-boggling. I have recently purchased a 2018 Eagle 325bhqs. I am in the process of switching to Lithium batteries and a battery monitor. At this point, I've removed the old lead-acid patterns and cleaned up the "battery compartment" and I am waiting for my new batteries cables. I don't feel like the electrical system has ever been quite right but the batteries in it are past their prime. When I was removing the batteries I figured I use the battery disconnect switch, disconnect the batteries and all would be good. Only there was still power to the battery cables even with the batteries removed. I then opened the panel where the battery disconnect switch lives and discovered there was indeed still 12V power to one side of the switch. I had to disconnect the shore power to eliminate all power to both sides of the switch. And to compound my confusion the side of the switch that was hot was the side that connects to the batteries and no batteries are connected currently. I think I need an electrician.

Shore power is going to the converter which is putting out 12V (more like 14V) to charge the battery while the RV is plugged into shore power. In my mind a battery disconnect switch should be disconnecting the battery from the RV electrical circuit completely with zero draw from or charge to the battery.

Another thing mentioned in the thread I don't understand is why someone would want battery power to the emergency braking switch while the RV is being stored. They said they wanted to "cut off all current except to the emergency brake switch". What is the purpose have having current going to the emergency braking system when the RV isn't being towed?

[ExChief]

Originally Posted by felidoc1

Wow, at least I'm not the only one who finds this wiring to be mind-boggling. I have recently purchased a 2018 Eagle 325bhqs. I am in the process of switching to Lithium batteries and a battery monitor. At this point, I've removed the old lead-acid patterns and cleaned up the "battery compartment" and I am waiting for my new batteries cables. I don't feel like the electrical system has ever been quite right but the batteries in it are past their prime. When I was removing the batteries I figured I use the battery disconnect switch, disconnect the batteries and all would be good. Only there was still power to the battery cables even with the batteries removed. I then opened the panel where the battery disconnect switch lives and discovered there was indeed still 12V power to one side of the switch. I had to disconnect the shore power to eliminate all power to both sides of the switch. And to compound my confusion the side of the switch that was hot was the side that connects to the batteries and no batteries are connected currently. I think I need an electrician.

Yours is actually wired correctly as you describe it, it allows the converter to keep the battery charged when you are plugged into shore power even if you turn off the switch to disconnect "most" of the 12 volt system

[Pragmatic]

Originally Posted by 2edgesword

Shore power is going to the converter which is putting out 12V (more like 14V) to charge the battery while the RV is plugged into shore power. In my mind a battery disconnect switch should be disconnecting the battery from the RV electrical circuit completely with zero draw from or charge to the battery.

Another thing mentioned in the thread I don't understand is why someone would want battery power to the emergency braking switch while the RV is being stored. They said they wanted to "cut off all current except to the emergency brake switch". What is the purpose have having current going to the emergency braking system when the RV isn't being towed?

The emergency brake function is a safety feature which absolutely must work every time. Eventually, someone will either forget to turn the battery disconnect on for towing, or will intentionally leave it turned off. The breakaway switch will always (we hope) be open, so this circuit will never use power...at least until that awful day when it's needed.

[madmaxmutt]

Originally Posted by Gizmopilot

My 2018 eagle 322rlok was miss wired as well.

It even had a wiring diagram that didn’t match the actual wiring.

It also had some of the wires shorting the circuit breakers making it unsafe.

My wires to the sanicon relay were barely held on as if they only started the nut and got distracted and didn’t finish.

I took a picture of it before correcting the issues.

The way I see it my new warranty is a joke, and only good for Items so expensive to repair that it is worth fighting with them about and dealing with the hassle of taking it back for weeks/loss of use/cost of towinng both ways.

So far my hot water heater control board failed, auto leveler wasn’t set level, battery disconnect was grossly miswired, my top slide seal was laying on the outside top of the slide, one drawer wasn’t secured to the back and the mechanism came out with the drawer. There probably is more that I can’t recall, but my point is I picked this up May 8th and discovered these issues at different times and would have been without my rv for most of the past 3 months if I attempted to get the dealer to “fix” them

I have attached a picture of my miswired battery disconnect and the wiring diagram.

Mine does now actually disconnect most items but will still charge the batteries “disconnected”.

I have also installed a BMV712 battery monitor and noticed that it only trickle charges ( about 6 amps) when disconnected vs getting the full amps from my PD4560 converter during bulk charge mode which is about 45 amps but only with the battery disconnect- connected.

For reference, here is a clearer picture of my wiring sticker.