Battery Size

[SGMBeyerl]

I just picked up our first trailer ever (Jay Flight SLX 264BHW). We are completely new to RVing, so all of my knowledge comes from the research I've done online. I took the battery out until I can get a solar battery tender and put it on one in the house.

I was impressed that it was an Interstate Battery and looked it up. It's a 24M-RD. The Interstate site says it's 500 amps. Based on the little checking I just did online, that seems huge! Other folks seem to be in the 100-200 amp range, and that's with multiple batteries in serial.

Am I misreading this or did Summit RV in KY really hook me up? I had planned to add a second battery and some solar panels. However, it looks like I could skip the second battery.

Any info you could provide would be really appreciated.

Mark

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[Robbbyr]

What you have is a dual-purpose battery, sometimes commonly known as a "marine/RV" battery. The specification you are citing is the battery's cranking ampere rating, according to the website is cold-cranking ampere (CCA) rating is 400 amperes. Those are ratings applicable to engine starting.

True deep-cycle batteries do not have CCA ratings since generally they are not used to start larger chassis engines. They have amp-hour ratings that describe how much current a battery can deliver over a longer time period versus the instantaneous surge (cranking amperes) you need to start an engine.

Depending on your intended usage you may certainly still need another battery. That isn't that large of a battery as far as RV batteries go.

[JEFF1963]

Congrats on your pending retirement. Concur with ROBBYR. Given the size of your RV and intended use of the battery, I'd go with a Type 27 Duracell (not the 24) deep cycle battery. Furthermore, yes, Yes, YES - by all means have a second like-size battery charged and ready to go. A solar unit is terrific, but if for any reason your battery completely fails, you're NOT going to convince COMHOMEFRONT RVing is neat - no lights, heat or water is NOT the way to convince any spouse this is more fun than being comfortable - even in government quarters!

[SGMBeyerl]

Originally Posted by Robbbyr

What you have is a dual-purpose battery, sometimes commonly known as a "marine/RV" battery. The specification you are citing is the battery's cranking ampere rating, according to the website is cold-cranking ampere (CCA) rating is 400 amperes. Those are ratings applicable to engine starting.

True deep-cycle batteries do not have CCA ratings since generally they are not used to start larger chassis engines. They have amp-hour ratings that describe how much current a battery can deliver over a longer time period versus the instantaneous surge (cranking amperes) you need to start an engine.

Depending on your intended usage you may certainly still need another battery. That isn't that large of a battery as far as RV batteries go.

Thanks Robbbyr. I really appreciate your help with this.

Well, that's disappointing. My original thought was to get a couple of 6V batteries and run them in series. However, with the solar setup, I'd be looking at close to $1K. I probably need to ease into that. So, given that what I have is really closer to a car battery than a deep cycle off grid battery, can I add deep cycle 12V battery in series or will the difference in battery type be a problem? Or, do I need to stick with another identical battery? I could spend the $400-500 on two new batteries, but I'm not sure what I'd do with the one I have now. I bought the trailer in Northeast KY and I live in Southern AL, so bringing it back isn't an option.

Mark

[SGMBeyerl]

Originally Posted by JEFF1963

Congrats on your pending retirement. Concur with ROBBYR. Given the size of your RV and intended use of the battery, I'd go with a Type 27 Duracell (not the 24) deep cycle battery. Furthermore, yes, Yes, YES - by all means have a second like-size battery charged and ready to go. A solar unit is terrific, but if for any reason your battery completely fails, you're NOT going to convince COMHOMEFRONT RVing is neat - no lights, heat or water is NOT the way to convince any spouse this is more fun than being comfortable - even in government quarters!

Thanks Jeff. You are so right! No lights, no heat, no water, no wife. She'd be at a hotel and I'd never get her back out with me. I picked the trailer up in Northern Kentucky and made it nearly to the TN border that night before I decided to stop for the night. I stopped at a campground using Passport America to cut the cost in half. It got down to 18 degrees. Thankfully the trailer was still weatherized. The heater worked great. I think my wife would even have been happy.....except for the walk over to the bath house. LOL That was a bit nippy.

[Robbbyr]

Originally Posted by SGMBeyerl

Thanks Robbbyr. I really appreciate your help with this.

Well, that's disappointing. My original thought was to get a couple of 6V batteries and run them in series. However, with the solar setup, I'd be looking at close to $1K. I probably need to ease into that. So, given that what I have is really closer to a car battery than a deep cycle off grid battery, can I add deep cycle 12V battery in series or will the difference in battery type be a problem? Or, do I need to stick with another identical battery? I could spend the $400-500 on two new batteries, but I'm not sure what I'd do with the one I have now. I bought the trailer in Northeast KY and I live in Southern AL, so bringing it back isn't an option.

Mark

A general recommendation is to not "mix" types or sizes of batteries tied together. It is suggested that batteries hooked directly together be the same size, chemistry, and even close to the same age as each other. When I say don't mix chemistry I mean don't tie together a flooded cell battery with a gel cell or absorbed glass mat (AGM) type. What you have now is a flooded-cell battery.

If you need more battery capacity right now your easiest path would be to find another identical Interstate and hook the two in parallel together. If you have room you could certainly do even more than two batteries. I had three 12-volt house batteries in my last Class C motorhome.

If you are seriously considering jumping into solar right away I think you need to consider a different course. True deep-cycle batteries (usually 6-volt) would be my recommendation if that is your ultimate destination. But I am not any sort of battery/solar expert by any stretch, there are others here on the forum who are far more proficient than I. One owner I have learned a lot from is Mustang65. Search for posts from him and I think it might be helpful.

Good luck and enjoy your unit!

[SGMBeyerl]

Thanks again Rob. Time to start planning. Fortunately, it seems like a solar setup can be pieced together over time.

I really appreciate your guidance.

Mark

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[SecretCoveDave]

Guy at Dalhousie university in Halifax just got a $million for Li-ion research he has done on a 30 year battery, close to no parasitic drain. Tesla hired him.

Just for info, cheers Dave.