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Old 08-15-2017, 02:47 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Camper_bob View Post
Sounds like you're losing 12V at some point; 72 is in fact the "default" temp setting, at least when set to "cool". If it were me, I would chase that 12V drop as opposed to getting a new t-stat to hide the symptom of a potentially greater problem. Of course, my trailer sits idle for long periods of time, so I hate having things with batteries. Seems I'm always replacing the batteries in my remotes.
Actually, it is doing this in heat (furnace) mode. Cooling (AC) seems to work fine. That said, not being an electric aficionado, trying to track down a voltage fluctuation this small when it is affecting nothing else is probably out of my league. Thanks for your reply, though.
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Old 08-15-2017, 02:52 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by DanNJanice View Post
I just installed the Prolux PSP511C on my trailer. Works perfectly. The wiring was straightforward as well.
Here is a link to the thermostat: http://a.co/0TmyWSx
Here is how my wires matched up:
Red = RH+RC - Power
Yellow=Y - AC compressor
White=W - Heat
Green=G - Fan High
Blue=No connection
Gray=No connection - Fan Low
Are the values on the left your Coleman-Mach wires and the Prolux on the right? If so, are the connections done w/ wire nuts or screw-type fasteners on the board itself? Also, because this is a 24v thermostat, are batteries used in lieu of DC power? Sorry, not an electrical wizard
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Old 08-16-2017, 10:08 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by mikefos View Post
Actually, it is doing this in heat (furnace) mode. Cooling (AC) seems to work fine. That said, not being an electric aficionado, trying to track down a voltage fluctuation this small when it is affecting nothing else is probably out of my league. Thanks for your reply, though.
I'm with you on the electrical stuff. I know just enough to either keep me out of trouble or get me into it!

Question though: How do you know the level of voltage drop? And how do you know the T-stat is the only thing affected? If in fact the T-stat is the only thing being affected, I would take a look at the wiring connections and make sure they're good, clean and tight. I installed mine myself though, so I know there is the possibility of those wire connections not being quite right.

Either way, good luck to you!
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Old 08-16-2017, 11:01 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Camper_bob View Post
I'm with you on the electrical stuff. I know just enough to either keep me out of trouble or get me into it!

Question though: How do you know the level of voltage drop? And how do you know the T-stat is the only thing affected? If in fact the T-stat is the only thing being affected, I would take a look at the wiring connections and make sure they're good, clean and tight. I installed mine myself though, so I know there is the possibility of those wire connections not being quite right.

Either way, good luck to you!
I installed mine too. As far as I know the only thing affected is this business w/ the heat setting being reset. AC worked fine. Maybe I'll check the connections I did as a starting point, but that's it, I'm not playing electric detective to try to track down a small voltage variance. Cheaper and less time consuming to replace the Coleman digital thermostat w/ one that uses batteries for power.
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Old 08-16-2017, 12:45 PM   #25
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Are the values on the left your Coleman-Mach wires and the Prolux on the right? If so, are the connections done w/ wire nuts or screw-type fasteners on the board itself? Also, because this is a 24v thermostat, are batteries used in lieu of DC power? Sorry, not an electrical wizard
The colors on the left are the existing wires coming out of wall. They were soldered to my old thermostat, so I just cut them off and stripped them back about 1/4". The letters correspond to what is written on the new thermostat and their function. These wire colors and lettering seem to be fairly standardized in the Heating/AC industry. The new thermostat has a plate where you screw on the wires. The plate mounts to the wall and then the thermostat snaps into the plate.
Regarding the power, this thermostat runs on AA batteries so no need for the 24v power.
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Old 08-16-2017, 01:05 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by DanNJanice View Post
The colors on the left are the existing wires coming out of wall. They were soldered to my old thermostat, so I just cut them off and stripped them back about 1/4". The letters correspond to what is written on the new thermostat and their function. These wire colors and lettering seem to be fairly standardized in the Heating/AC industry. The new thermostat has a plate where you screw on the wires. The plate mounts to the wall and then the thermostat snaps into the plate.
Regarding the power, this thermostat runs on AA batteries so no need for the 24v power.
Ok, great, and did you do a jumper from Rh to Rc between the terminals?
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Old 08-18-2017, 08:30 AM   #27
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Ok, great, and did you do a jumper from Rh to Rc between the terminals?
The Thermostat already had the jumper, I just left it in place.
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Old 08-19-2017, 06:30 AM   #28
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I've had no problems with my digital Coleman thermostat replacement unit. But we have no florescent lights anywhere in the trailer.

In my prior two trailers, I used an inexpensive digital Honeywell to replace the Coleman analog thermostats. But neither of those trailers had central air and the AC did not work off the thermostat, so the switch over was easy.

For my new trailer, which does have central air, I decided to go with the more expensive Coleman digital model since it would be just a simple wire for wire changeover.

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Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald View Post
Ok. Found it. This is the link. Sorry about that.
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