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Old 04-17-2022, 11:24 AM   #1
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Does anybody know....

Is the valve right up on the black tank? The schematic shows the valve directly below the toilet towards front of trailer. I know the valve is slightly open but not enough to drain the tank.
I want to use something down the toilet with a fixed end on it to hopefully push the valve open, but I need to know how far out from the tank side the valve is.
Does anybody know? Has anybody tried this?

My underbelly is sealed tight and insulated. Tank handles are on cables, I think cable is possibly my problem on black tank.
I'm trying to avoid cutting the bottom open!

Thanks!
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Old 04-17-2022, 11:37 AM   #2
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What RV do you have?
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Old 04-17-2022, 11:42 AM   #3
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I have never seen one that was less than ~1.5' away from the tank. However, even if the valve was directly attached to the tank I don't believe that you would be able to repair\replace the valve and\or cable without direct access to it. ~CA
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Old 04-17-2022, 11:43 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Spower View Post
Is the valve right up on the black tank? The schematic shows the valve directly below the toilet towards front of trailer. I know the valve is slightly open but not enough to drain the tank.
I want to use something down the toilet with a fixed end on it to hopefully push the valve open, but I need to know how far out from the tank side the valve is.
Does anybody know? Has anybody tried this?

My underbelly is sealed tight and insulated. Tank handles are on cables, I think cable is possibly my problem on black tank.
I'm trying to avoid cutting the bottom open!

Thanks!
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If you get to the point of cutting a window in the underbelly, keep the flap to the front and gorilla tape the edges to reseal. Don't detach the underbelly material.
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Old 04-17-2022, 11:47 AM   #5
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I did like TaftCoach stated and cut three sides in the bottom leaving the front side uncut. The only difference is I that used eternabond tape to reseal mine as I had purchased a roll of it and had (have) plenty leftover. It has held up for many years now 4~5 even though I couldn't pressure roll it down very hard.
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Old 04-17-2022, 11:52 AM   #6
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I have never seen one that was less than ~1.5' away from the tank. However, even if the valve was directly attached to the tank I don't believe that you would be able to repair\replace the valve and\or cable without direct access to it. ~CA
I'm not trying to fix it, I'm just trying to get it open so it will drain!
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Old 04-17-2022, 11:53 AM   #7
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Old 04-17-2022, 11:57 AM   #8
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Here is the schematics
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File Type: pdf Plumbing 1.pdf (226.3 KB, 62 views)
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Old 04-17-2022, 12:19 PM   #9
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Looking at your schematic, it is item #GT 42 and directly attached to the tank (1" away). Perhaps someone with your exact or very similar model will have more specific information though. ~CA
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Old 04-17-2022, 02:25 PM   #10
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Ok, got my camera down the toilet, and I was right, it is partially open.
Now I need to figure out what I can use that I can get down the toilet then be able to reach the trap.

The trap isn't far, but the length is longer then the room to get it down the toilet, if that makes sense. Any ideas?
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Old 04-17-2022, 02:51 PM   #11
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Ok, got my camera down the toilet, and I was right, it is partially open.
Now I need to figure out what I can use that I can get down the toilet then be able to reach the trap.

The trap isn't far, but the length is longer then the room to get it down the toilet, if that makes sense. Any ideas?
It seems even if you get something down there. you may need another person to pull on the cable handle at the same time you are pushing the valve back. I really thing your best bet would be cutting into the underbelly and working the valve by hand. That way you could disconnect the cable, which may or not be the problem. Then you would know for sure whether it's a bad valve or a bad cable.
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Old 04-17-2022, 02:51 PM   #12
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When you move the handle, does the valve move at all?

I would be attempting to exercise it the valve, if it does. If it doesn't you will probably be dropping the choroplast, or cutting an access to replace the valve/cable mechanism.

PS I would bet the "insulated" is pretty minimal. At least it is in every Jayco I have heard of. It is probably only, either a few bats between the choroplast and tanks, or it is some reflectix on top of the choroplast.
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Old 04-17-2022, 02:58 PM   #13
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I just want to get it open and will leave it open. I dont know if trap moves when handle is wiggled as I am one person.
In the picture the trap looks rounded to me, could it be a ball valve?
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Old 04-17-2022, 03:03 PM   #14
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I just want to get it open and will leave it open. I dont know if trap moves when handle is wiggled as I am one person.
In the picture the trap looks rounded to me, could it be a ball valve?


Um, no you won't want to do that. You will end up with a pile of poo, if you do that.

I have never seen or heard of anything but gate valves for tanks.


Pretty sure yours is either a Bristol or LaSalle. Never seen a white Valterra.
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Old 04-17-2022, 03:12 PM   #15
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I just want to get it open and will leave it open. I dont know if trap moves when handle is wiggled as I am one person.
In the picture the trap looks rounded to me, could it be a ball valve?
It looks rounded, and light colored. The only blade dump valves I've seen were black colored and they were a flat blade riding between two rubber or vinlyl gaskets. I've only seen this type of ball valve right in the bottom of the toilet, that keeps water in the bowl.
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Old 04-17-2022, 03:27 PM   #16
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It looks rounded, and light colored. The only blade dump valves I've seen were black colored and they were a flat blade riding between two rubber or vinlyl gaskets. I've only seen this type of ball valve right in the bottom of the toilet, that keeps water in the bowl.
I know Lasalle makes them, but I am not sure if Bristol is a design/type or one of their models.

The rounded look is either an optical illusion or the reason his doesn't work....Click image for larger version

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Old 04-17-2022, 04:05 PM   #17
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I know Lasalle makes them, but I am not sure if Bristol is a design/type or one of their models.

The rounded look is either an optical illusion or the reason his doesn't work....Attachment 80685
Looking at your pic, I don't see how a ball type valve could retract into the valve housing.

I think on your photo maybe the leading edge could be curved, but like you say, maybe an optical illusion. Just don't know. But I would be cutting into the underbelly to take a look.
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Old 04-17-2022, 04:40 PM   #18
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Looking at your pic, I don't see how a ball type valve could retract into the valve housing.

I think on your photo maybe the leading edge could be curved, but like you say, maybe an optical illusion. Just don't know. But I would be cutting into the underbelly to take a look.
Cutting into the underbelly is not going to show me anything. The valve is in between the tank and a 90 degree pipe, you can see it on the schematic.
So if I can figure out something to use from above to get it open, I'd rather try that first.
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Old 04-17-2022, 04:44 PM   #19
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Um, no you won't want to do that. You will end up with a pile of poo, if you do that..
Only until the pipe fills up (pipe isn't that long), then the tank will fill as usual. I use water with every flush.

So does anybody have an idea for reaching the valve to try to push it open???
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Old 04-17-2022, 04:50 PM   #20
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Cutting into the underbelly is not going to show me anything. The valve is in between the tank and a 90 degree pipe, you can see it on the schematic.
So if I can figure out something to use from above to get it open, I'd rather try that first.
I think you are missing the point. These are storage tanks. They are not household flow-through plumbing. The tank relies on the storage of large volume of fluid and a small volume of solid waste. You cannot leave it open and use it (at least for #2). You need a functioning valve in order to store enough fluid to make the solids flow out, when the valve is opened.
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