Jayco RV Owners Forum
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 10-01-2013, 08:30 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 5
Electrical Help!!!

Hello everyone, I hope someone has some good advice. I recently plugged my 2011 32bhds into a 220v source in the garage. I thought it was 110 because the circuit had a 3 wire plug and was being used for an air compressor. Long story short, when I started up the a/c, a breaker popped in the panel on the camper. I then realized it was 220, but everything seemed to work once I reset the tripped breaker. Now, there is no charge going to the battery, and I cant seem to find any blown fuses or tripped breakers. As long as I have a battery charger on the battery, all is fine. Any help with what is wrong would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.....
__________________

Esharon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2013, 09:30 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 261
Can the camper run when on battery? If so I would guess that a fuse or component in your converter is blown. If not there may be an inline or other fuse you have not located yet near the battery....

Just guessing....

-Chak
__________________

__________________
- 2005 Dodge 2500 CTD 6spd manual
- 2010 Starcraft Autumn Ridge 246RKS
- 2003 Casita Spirit Deluxe (sold)

My Write-up on managing 12V and batteries
LED Bulbs and what I did
Chakara is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2013, 09:38 PM   #3
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 5
So far, every fuse in the panel is good (the visible ones) and the one 30a outside is good. This one has me stumped. Even the RV place I bought from didn't seem to have a clue. Just trying everything I can see before the TT goes in to the dealer......Thanks!
Esharon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2013, 12:50 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
3'senough's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 2,072
These units have over voltage protection, so it may reset once you have connected to 110V. There is a separate breaker for the converter in the panel and there are fuses in the front lower left corner of the panel for reverse voltage. You should disconnect the battery terminals and check the output at the terminal blocks to confirm if the converter is the problem. If the converter is working all your lights should be operational when connected to shore power and when the battery is disconnected. If this works your problem is between the battery and the converter, if not then you need to fix the converter most likely.

If the converter works then check the voltage on the battery terminals to confirm if the battery is the issue. You could have a dead short in it.

You can buy the converter separate of the panel and replace it.
__________________

2014 375 BHFS Eagle Premier
2014 Ram 3500 Longhorn DRW CC
6.7 CTD, Aisin, 4.10's
Yamaha EF3000iSEB
3'senough is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2013, 01:39 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Mustang65's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Clearwater, FL area
Posts: 3,671
Try resetting ALL the breakers in your panel 2x manually? A lot of the breakers do not reset on the initial reset. I am not sure as to how your control panel is wired, but here is how it is wired in my 2013 284BHS. The battery controller is tied in with the AC unit's breaker. Try resetting it a couple times, or you may need to replace the breaker. I am not sure as to how much experience you have with working with AC, but if you are not real good at it, leave it to a qualified tech. What type of power distribution panel do you have? I have the Progressive Dynamics PD 4000, which has the good trouble shooting section in the manual.
Does the AC work?
Don
__________________
2013 Jayco Eagle 284BHS
250Watt Grape Solar Panel, MorningStar MPPT 60 Charge Controller
1500 Watt Ramsond PSI, 2 Trojan T145 Batteries (260Ah)
2 - AirSight Wireless IP Cameras (used as rear view cameras)
EnGenius WI-FI extender, D-Link wireless (n) modem
MagicJack Internet Phone
2012 Ford F150XLT, EcoBoost w/3.73
157" Wheel base, HD Towing Package

Our Solar Album https://www.jaycoowners.com/album.php?albumid=329
Mustang65 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2013, 03:15 PM   #6
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 95
don't forget to get that outlet for the compressor changed to a proper 220V outlet type.
__________________
2013 JayFlight 26RKS
2013 F-150 SuperCrew XLT w/EcoBoost, 4x4, 3.55 E-locker,
firestone airbags in back, windbag behind the wheel,
E rated Michelin LTX M/S2s

"No matter where you go, there you are"
-Buckaroo Bansai
frieed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2013, 04:12 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Renton
Posts: 516
I seriously doubt that electrical items have protection against 120V on the neutral and opposite phase 120V on the hot line which is what you get if you plug into a 3 wire 240V outlet. All of the neutral lines are bussed together in every panel I have seen. The breakers only operate on the hot side. The net effect of this is that every device would have seen 120V neutral to ground (bad as there should be no voltage differential between these legs) and 240V line to neutral (also bad because this should be only 120V). Breakers and fuses protect against overcurrent including shorts circuits. What probably popped the breaker when the AC was turned on the AC drew too much current because of the out of phase power because the motor is wired for 120V phase to neutral. The motor would simply been unable to start and drew too much current and popped with the breaker.
__________________
Michael
Old setup:
2004 Chevrolet Silverado 3500 LT with a 2004 Jayco JayFlight 29BHS
2014 Greyhawk 31FS with a 2007 Tahoe toad
New setup:
2014 Thor Palazzo 33.3 with a 2007 Tahoe toad
msturtz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2013, 07:16 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
tnchuck100's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Sparta, TN
Posts: 1,174
This is one of those occasions when I usually keep quiet and not try to help after so much well meaning misinformation has already been posted. This time I have made an exception.

msturtz has given the best assessment so far.

First, there is no inherent voltage protection in your RV. This CAN be added though an EMS device.

If your system has been subjected to 240 V virtually everything has been subjected to excessive voltage. This can be everything from the converter to the refrigerator control board and air conditioner. EVERY electrically operated or controlled device will have to be evaluated independently to determine the full extent of your damage. There is no simple answer.

Please, as frieed suggests, get rid of that miswired outlet.
__________________
Chuck - Sparta, TN
2012 Jay Flight 22FB, 2 x Honda EU2000i
2013 GMC Yukon XL Denali AWD

EDUCATION is what you get when you read the fine print.....
EXPERIENCE is what you get when you don't.
tnchuck100 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2013, 07:38 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Renton
Posts: 516
I plug my RV into a autoformer which does in fact prevent over voltage. It would likely burn out the autoformer but would prevent damage to the RV. Also, most - but not all - surge suppressors can protect from this type of mis-wiring.
__________________

__________________
Michael
Old setup:
2004 Chevrolet Silverado 3500 LT with a 2004 Jayco JayFlight 29BHS
2014 Greyhawk 31FS with a 2007 Tahoe toad
New setup:
2014 Thor Palazzo 33.3 with a 2007 Tahoe toad
msturtz is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Virginia State Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:30 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright 2002-2016 Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.