Electrical Troubleshooting Tips For Newbies

[hartlenb]

Newbie question: is there a way to subscribe or be notified when files are updated in the manual section?

[JimD]

Originally Posted by hartlenb

Newbie question: is there a way to subscribe or be notified when files are updated in the manual section?

I have no idea. Hopefully an administrator will see your question.

[norty1]

The only way I know is to look at the stats data in the manuals section and it will list new files by date.

I will follow up with Admin to verify if there is another method.

[Aggie79]

Originally Posted by hartlenb

Newbie question: is there a way to subscribe or be notified when files are updated in the manual section?

The best you can do is use Thread Tools just above the thread text and subscribe to the thread. Then, you will get a notice when the thread is up dated.

[Mikemack73]

Thanks for sharing this. My partner and I are in the early stages of a rebuild of a 1979 Jayco songbird. I would like to run solar and shore power through an inverter to 240v to run a small fridge, led lighting and phone chargers. Would you think that this is a possible option? Thanks in advance Mike and Sue

[Cavie]

Originally Posted by Mikemack73

Thanks for sharing this. My partner and I are in the early stages of a rebuild of a 1979 Jayco songbird. I would like to run solar and shore power through an inverter to 240v to run a small fridge, led lighting and phone chargers. Would you think that this is a possible option? Thanks in advance Mike and Sue

https://www.technorv.com/articles/ho...Q63nbGg0ktkmuc

[Albro]

Much appreciated Jim! Thank you!

[JimD]

Originally Posted by Mikemack73

Thanks for sharing this. My partner and I are in the early stages of a rebuild of a 1979 Jayco songbird. I would like to run solar and shore power through an inverter to 240v to run a small fridge, led lighting and phone chargers. Would you think that this is a possible option? Thanks in advance Mike and Sue

You won't get 240 volts nor do you need it. I don't know what the songbird came with but I will assume nothing.

The heart of your system will be the battery or multiple batteries especially if you want to run a fridge of an inverter. Inverters suck the life out of a battery and you need a way to recharge it.

I added solar to my rig and love it. I only use my inverter for TV so don't have the higher draw of a fridge. I can tell you that I need my 400 watts of solar to keep up with the battery draw for my inverter. I previously only had 200 watts which couldn't quite keep up.

So, the first recommendation is to get at least a couple of decent batteries, possibly 2 6 volt ones in series. Maybe even more batteries. Then get as much solar as you can and run the output from the solar controller directly to the battery.

Your inverter will also connect directly to the battery. Use heavy gauge cables for this connection as you will be pulling major amps.

For a shore power hookup you get a converter and once again connect its output directly to the battery. The 120 volt side of the converter will simply plug into a standard outlet. I would pick a converter capable of 60 amps or so for its output.

Another thing you may want to consider is a small inverter generator. You could just plug the shore power cord into it when no shore power is available. I use this setup when dry camping if I need to top off my batteries at night. Works great.

When you wire in your inverter and fridge you will need a transfer switch for the inverter unless it includes a built-in one. This transfer switch will select either shore power or inverter output to send to your 120 volt items. It doesn't need to be a massive transfer switch, just one made for inverters.

All 12 volt items will once again connect directly to the battery (feel a theme here?). They should be routed through a fuse panel or fuse block.

Well, that's some thoughts off the top of my head. What you want to do is not difficult on paper. Not sure how hard the real world adaptation would be.

[madmaxmutt]

Originally Posted by JimD

RV Electrical Troubleshooting Version 2 is finally available and is attached.

I also attached the original version 1 document of the Quick Multimeter Instructions.



The new doc has twice the number of pages. I kind of went crazy here. New items include:



1.New title page.

2.Add Table of Contents.

3.Add ground connection info to 12 volt power section.

4.Add owner/service manual links.

5.Add heat pump troubleshooting.

6.Add tank sensor info.

7.Add battery disconnect info.

8.Add battery display info.

9.Add Sequence of Operation section.

10.Add Onan tips.

11.Add water heater troubleshooting.

12.Add propane problems.

13.Add energy management system operation.



Hopefully this information will help someone out there at some point in time.

Great work Jim. That is a lot of work to compile into a useful form. Thanks for sharing!!

[KyKen]

Originally Posted by JimD

I have put together a couple of documents to help newbies troubleshoot common electrical problems in their RV. One of the documents will quickly show you how to use a test meter in case you never have used one.

The main document will give tips for most electrical items in your rig - furnace, fridge, transfer switch, inverter, converter, etc. Simple voltage tests to help narrow the problem down.

On many of the items I attempt to explain how they work because if you know what it is suppose to do, I believe it helps in the diagnostic process.

I have included a screen shot of one section to show you how it is put together.

This is version 1 of the document as I will probably be refining it after I get feedback from other electrical specialists out there.

The main reason I assembled these documents was because I missed doing this sort of thing. Before retirement I was an electronic tech in the field for 45 years with a heck of a lot of troubleshooting experience. I also created technical documents for others. I have been an RV owner for 30+ years (not counting when my RV was a Ford van) and have done near 100% of my own repairs. Since I am bored right now, it just all fell into place. Besides, I enjoy helping others when I can.

I am a new member,my electrical problems in my 2000 jay out 3500 dodge conv. Van. Recently purchased the rv , I have all owners manuals but none has helped. I noticed interior overhead lights did not work. I checked the fuse and it was missing .I replaced the fuse some of the interior lights worked. I then tried to get the ceiling lights on ,first with a weird switch that showed an open and a closed circuit? I turned the switch to closed ,and then attempted to turn the reading lights on with their switches. No luck I went back to the fuse box the 15 amp foes was burned out.

[JimD]

Are these the facts - with a good fuse in place some lights work but as soon as you activate the ceiling lights, the fuse blows?

Since the fuse was "missing" this issue was present before you got it. I'm not sure what your description of the switch is referring to. Do you mean you ohmed out the switch and in one position it was closed (dead short) and the other it was open? This would be normal for a switch.

With the fuse good and you flip the switch for the ceiling lights, you are just connecting the 12 volts from the fuse to the string of ceiling lights which apparently then causes the fuse to blow.

I absolutely hate to use the word "short" because it is generically used for everything but in this case, it pretty much applies. To take out a 15 amp fuse as soon as you flip a switch means something is shorted.

So you have a string of lights that could be shorted anywhere. It will either be in one of the light sockets/bulbs or in the wiring (groan). I would start with the light sockets. If these are bulbs you can pull out, remove all the bulbs at once and look at the sockets. With all bulbs removed, flip the switch and see if the fuse blows.

If it doesn't blow then you can reinstall one bulb at a time and try the switch each time to see if you can isolate the problem to a particular bulb. I am taking a guess that your bulbs are not LED. If they are LED they will most likely be non-unpluggable. LEDs would have to be taken out of circuit in a different manner.

If the fuse blows with all lights removed, odds are you have a wire shorting to ground unless a socket is shorted where you can't easily identify it. This usually doesn't happen to a wire just sitting in a wall and not moving. Wires can be damaged if they are moved, such as when a slide moves in and out. Or a mouse may have enjoyed chewing on the wiring.

Let us know how things progress.

[KyKen]

Thank you I will get back to you with results.

[KyKen]

Thank you,I will contact in regards to what you suggest. I will also send a photo to show you the switch that shows an open and the connection straight line. I have never seen this type switch. I am very familiar with household wiring. I have only seen this type in electrical drawings. to where a switch is located in the drawing?

[Cavie]

Originally Posted by KyKen

I am a new member,my electrical problems in my 2000 jay out 3500 dodge conv. Van. Recently purchased the rv , I have all owners manuals but none has helped. I noticed interior overhead lights did not work. I checked the fuse and it was missing .I replaced the fuse some of the interior lights worked. I then tried to get the ceiling lights on ,first with a weird switch that showed an open and a closed circuit? I turned the switch to closed ,and then attempted to turn the reading lights on with their switches. No luck I went back to the fuse box the 15 amp foes was burned out.

It is called a 3 way switch. It lets you turn lights on and off from 2 different locations in the room. You can turn it on from one end, walk across the room, and turn it off from there.

At least that is what I think you mean by saying it has an open circuit and a closed circuit.

[JimD]

Originally Posted by Cavie

It is called a 3 way switch. It lets you turn lights on and off from 2 different locations in the room. You can turn it on from one end, walk across the room, and turn it off from there.

At least that is what I think you mean by saying it has an open circuit and a closed circuit.

That is just a SPDT (single pole double throw) switch as you mentioned. It may or may not be used in a 3 way application. I have used many SPST toggle switches configured as a simple on/off.

Do RVs utilize 3 way circuits for lighting? Just curious. I know they use 3 way for water pump circuits. Also that type of switch would be used for awnings and slides but would be a SPDT Center Off style. Could also be a DPDT (double pole double throw). So many switch possibilities.

[Cavie]

Originally Posted by JimD

That is just a SPDT (single pole double throw) switch as you mentioned. It may or may not be used in a 3 way application. I have used many SPST toggle switches configured as a simple on/off.

Do RVs utilize 3 way circuits for lighting? Just curious. I know they use 3 way for water pump circuits. Also that type of switch would be used for awnings and slides but would be a SPDT Center Off style. Could also be a DPDT (double pole double throw). So many switch possibilities.

Yes. double door trailers use them.

[jwvdkiv]

Hello All,

TT (Jay Flight SLX 264BH) came prewired for Furrion Backup Camera.

Camera receives power when connected to wire provided for pairing in tow vehicle. When camera is connected to travel trailer, power on (blue light) indicator not illuminated.

Checked and replaced fuse on the seven pin for 12v.

Discussed with Furrion and RV service person on the phone. Still no luck on getting power.

Any suggestions before I give up and take it to dealer?

Thanks in advance...

[jwvdkiv]

Hello All,

Could TX "Snowmageddon" have damaged my water heater?

2021 Jayco Flight SLX 264BH has the WH-6GEA water heater.

Unable to heat water with L.P. Gas or Electrically.

When I picked up TT it worked great. That was pre-"Snowmageddon" here in TX.

Do I throw in the towel and take it to RV service dept?

Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

[madmaxmutt]

Originally Posted by jwvdkiv

Hello All,



TT (Jay Flight SLX 264BH) came prewired for Furrion Backup Camera.



Camera receives power when connected to wire provided for pairing in tow vehicle. When camera is connected to travel trailer, power on (blue light) indicator not illuminated.



Checked and replaced fuse on the seven pin for 12v.



Discussed with Furrion and RV service person on the phone. Still no luck on getting power.



Any suggestions before I give up and take it to dealer?



Thanks in advance...

If if is on the 7 pin, I would want to know which pin. It probably won't be the charging wire. It will likely be on the marker light pin. Are your headlights on when you are trying to use it?

[madmaxmutt]

Originally Posted by jwvdkiv

Hello All,



Could TX "Snowmageddon" have damaged my water heater?



2021 Jayco Flight SLX 264BH has the WH-6GEA water heater.



Unable to heat water with L.P. Gas or Electrically.



When I picked up TT it worked great. That was pre-"Snowmageddon" here in TX.



Do I throw in the towel and take it to RV service dept?



Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

It would normally be bypassed for the winter. If you used the heater when bypassed, then you have another issue....