Equalizer Failure - Additional Precaution to Avoid Failure
May I preface this with saying we love our Equalizer brand equalizing hitch with it's 4-point sway control! When installed correctly and working correctly, we have no sway and our 1/2 ton truck's rear rides higher.
Last September we had a failure with our one year old Equalizer Hitch. The side brackets started to slip (1st pic below). Then turning at 5 mph into the campground... "pop"! The inside part of bracket broke forming an "L"(2nd pic below). Equalizer gladly sent us to a local dealer (we were traveling through Nebraska at the time) who replaced/installed the needed parts for free. We were good to go.
Talk about good timing, last week while we were driving down to dealer for warranty work, we heard that popping sound again! The brackets had slipped. We knew what was going to happen next. We made it to the dealer before the bracket failed
The fix (per Equalizer)!!! The dealer was instructed to drill a hole mid-way between the top and bottom of bracket and through the tongue. Then inserted a bolt. That bracket is going no-where now! Last pic shows the additional bolt.
(Additional holes you see toward front of tongue was from the Huskey hitch we originally had)
So if you have probs with your brackets "slipping", hope this info helps
__________________
Denise, DH, grandkids, and two rescue pups
-2016 Jay Flight 29QBS Elite
-2016 Ford F-250 XLT 4x2, 6.2L EFI V8, 4.30 Elec Lock, Heavy duty Alt
May I preface this with saying we love our Equalizer brand equalizing hitch with it's 4-point sway control! When installed correctly and working correctly, we have no sway and our 1/2 ton truck's rear rides higher.
Last September we had a failure with our one year old Equalizer Hitch. The side brackets started to slip (1st pic below). Then turning at 5 mph into the campground... "pop"! The inside part of bracket broke forming an "L"(2nd pic below). Equalizer gladly sent us to a local dealer (we were traveling through Nebraska at the time) who replaced/installed the needed parts for free. We were good to go.
Talk about good timing, last week while we were driving down to dealer for warranty work, we heard that popping sound again! The brackets had slipped. We knew what was going to happen next. We made it to the dealer before the bracket failed
The fix (per Equalizer)!!! The dealer was instructed to drill a hole mid-way between the top and bottom of bracket and through the tongue. Then inserted a bolt. That bracket is going no-where now! Last pic shows the additional bolt.
(Additional holes you see toward front of tongue was from the Huskey hitch we originally had)
So if you have probs with your brackets "slipping", hope this info helps
Mine slipped and broke the bracket with the set screw on day one bringing the Jayco home. Called dealer and he drove the 80 miles to look at what I was telling him and then got the pieces and brought them to my house and installed. That was the fix for me. Dealer told me that the company told him that I had the "B" hitch and they produced too much torque and snapped the set screw bracket.
We'll be picking up our 242 in a couple of weeks and the dealer will be installing a new Equilizer hitch. Having read the above, I might print out the thread or bring the computer along and show them the posts and photos. From reading it seems a lot of the members have these hitches and I wonder how common this problem is?
I have had my Equal-i-zer system for the past three years and have not had one single problem.
I have relatives who also have the same system and they have not had a single problem. I will say that one relative had their brackets welded to the tongue, but that was installed about 6 years ago.
Not sure if this is the reason, but their brackets are welded. My brackets are bolted.
I will be keeping an eye on this thread for any other issues or updates.
Thanks for the info Judy!!!
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HAPPY CAMPING!! :D
Daryl and Sandy
2013 Eagle 314BDS
2014 Ford F150 Platinum, 4 x 4 Crew Cab with Ecoboost
Equal-i-zer Hitch
One thing I noticed in the Equal-i-zer instructions, is they say you need to check the L-bracket bolts for proper torque tightness, before each time on the road. Keeping the L-brackets from slipping under load is the issue here. Certainly welding or adding a bolt which goes through the tonge will keep slippage to a minimum.
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2013 Jayco Eagle 31.5RLDS
2018 Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
Drilling is total elimination of any movement. Why was that not in the install instructions to began with?
Good question.
My experience in manufacturing tells me, sometimes it comes down to an argument within the company between the marketing types and the engineering types. In this case, I would bet the marketing types like to push the fact it will mount with no holes drilled.
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2013 Jayco Eagle 31.5RLDS
2018 Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
One thing I noticed in the Equal-i-zer instructions, is they say you need to check the L-bracket bolts for proper torque tightness, before each time on the road. Keeping the L-brackets from slipping under load is the issue here. Certainly welding or adding a bolt which goes through the tonge will keep slippage to a minimum.
Don also pointed that out about the torque. Best we could do was just to verify they were tightened down before each trip.
Quote:
Originally Posted by David472
Good question.
My experience in manufacturing tells me, sometimes it comes down to an argument within the company between the marketing types and the engineering types. In this case, I would bet the marketing types like to push the fact it will mount with no holes drilled.
I'm guessing the same!
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Denise, DH, grandkids, and two rescue pups
-2016 Jay Flight 29QBS Elite
-2016 Ford F-250 XLT 4x2, 6.2L EFI V8, 4.30 Elec Lock, Heavy duty Alt
My new equal i zer hitch has the two bolts that attach the bracket to the tongue, so I Guess that is the new design. No I have only towed it home from the dealer and to the RV parking lot so I haven't had a lot of experience with it yet, but I was concerned about the noise if and when I pull into a camp site late and don't want to wake everyone up. I will do the grease thing next time I hook it up. When I would travel on my Honda Gold Wing, which is quiet anyway, motorcycle if I leave the motel early I always make sure my bike is away from the rooms so I won't disturb anyone. So the quieter I can get the hitch the better, Thanks again for all the help I have received here already, It is a great help.
The fix (per Equalizer)!!! The dealer was instructed to drill a hole mid-way between the top and bottom of bracket and through the tongue. Then inserted a bolt. That bracket is going no-where now! Last pic shows the additional bolt.
(Additional holes you see toward front of tongue was from the Huskey hitch we originally had)
So if you have probs with your brackets "slipping", hope this info helps [/SIZE]
UPDATE...
We have traveled 3000 miles since the "fix". We have been watching our tongue/hitch/wdh/bars/etc. No sign of failure or damage. It's nice not having to worry about the brackets slipping and bending anymore
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Denise, DH, grandkids, and two rescue pups
-2016 Jay Flight 29QBS Elite
-2016 Ford F-250 XLT 4x2, 6.2L EFI V8, 4.30 Elec Lock, Heavy duty Alt
I have experienced this shifting of one L-bracket, by a small amount, even though they are the new design. It happened while backing into our laneway, which slopes upward from the street level. During a turn like this, the L-bracket on the inside of the turn is under alot of strain. Also, because our laneway and road are narrow, I need to jockey in and out a few times during the turn. I think the shifting happened during this jockey back and forth. It only shifted about 1/4 inch, and has only done so once in seven times of backing in. This highlights for me, the need to watch the L-bracket alignment and bolt tightness like a hawk.
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2013 Jayco Eagle 31.5RLDS
2018 Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
Healthi, thanks for this post. This morning I looked at my Equalizer hitch. I found one side bracket slightly twisted. I do not recall noticing it out of alignment when I unhooked Monday. I’ll take a few pictures and try to determine what happened.
I have two suspects. 1st my brackets are to far back for sharp turning radius. I did do a fairly sharp uturn in a parking lot Monday morning. 2nd I have to heavy of a hitch. I read a note on the tong earlier this week not to use a WD hitch over 10K lbs, and the dealer installed a 12K EQ hitch.
Has anyone used the formula for sizing your Equalizer hitch for your GVWR, tongue weight, and weight behind the rear axle? (Link to mfg formula below)
I ask this because when I recently ordered my TT, they quoted a 12K model. Did not give it much thought at the time but when I went back and ran the numbers, the 12K model is not sufficient. AND, if I add more than 300lbs behind the read axle of the TT, even the 14K is not adequate.
May be negotiating for a different mfg or a stronger solution.
Just thought I would add this to the discussion. You can not rely on your dealer or salesperson to provide the correct solutions.
I've had my Equal-i-zer hitch for 9 years and now on my second trailer. I installed it myself on my 29BHS Outback. It worked perfectly for the 8 years I towed that trailer. Last March I bought my Jayco and the dealer moved the L-brackets to the Jayco and set up the hitch. And they did it improperly. I started to see the L-brackets tilting back like that and after a little studying, I figured it out.
The spring bars were angled up from front to rear. They are supposed to be parallel to the tongue frame. I had to raise up the hitch head one bolt hole (1 inch), then tilt the hitch head back (using about 3 additional spacers) to get the correct weight distribution. Since then, I've had no problems.
I suggest you take a look at the setup and if the bars are not parallel, it needs to be adjusted. You can download the installation instructions and owners manual from the Progressive Mfg website: Installation Instructions & Parts Breakdown
snip..... May be negotiating for a different mfg or a stronger solution.....snip
I would tend to agree....., IMO the 2016 Eagle 330RSTS would be better suited with a WDH w/spring bars rated at 1,500lbs minimum......, when considering a 13% to 15% loaded tongue weight range of the TT's potential loaded weight. Spring bars rated at 1,400lbs will work, they just limit the loading of the heavy 330RSTS.
No, I haven't used the "Hitch Formula" in the link you provided. I plug in different TT "loaded" weights considering different loading habits, and also use a TT's GVWR as a worst case scenario. On the heavier/longer TT's I always use a 13% to 15% loaded tongue weight range......., IMO anything less would compromise TV handling under less then ideal towing conditions.
Bob
ps: This is an inactive thread (2011-12), so it may not get much visibility.
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