EZ Lube Axle

[kevcarr59]

I have a couple of questions about the EZ Lube axle.

According to the service writer at our RV store, you don't want to use the lube fitting to add grease into the bearings. Using the fitting you CAN blow out the grease into the drum & contaminate the brakes. Yes, that's a possibility, but I think if you're careful, that shouldn't happen.

Looking at Dexter's site, and the YouTube video, that's EXACTLY what they do & recommend. If they recommend it, why would the RV center say NOT to do it???

Second is compatibility: According to the writer, when they repacked the bearings they used Mystic JT-6, if I changed to Lucas Red N' Tacky 2, would I have to pull the bearings and repack, or just flush the JT-6 out??

We're leaving on a 2000 mile trip Easter Sunday morning, and I want to make sure we have no problems with bearings. They were repacked last year, when we had a bearing sling some grease on the rim on the outside. This was after only about 100 miles on a brand new trailer. since the repack, we don't have 500 miles on it.

[bankr63]

The best explanation I have seen on Youtube is to pump the grease in very slowly while rotating the wheel (needs a floor jack). The blow out of the rear seal occurs if too much pressure is applied too quickly. Not sure if that is really true, but made sense to me.

I'm sure your RV store says don't do it because they see way too many instances where it was done wrong.

Of course a body shop would warn you not to drive fast because they see too much body damage by speeders, and your tire store would say not to drive over 65 because they see too many TT blowouts. Done correctly, shouldn't be a problem.

Don't know enough about grease types to comment on mixing them.

[bansai]

Originally Posted by kevcarr59

we don't have 500 miles on it.

I wouldn't touch them at all in that case. 500 miles is *nothing* and you've already had one issue with too much grease in there.. or whatever the cause of that flinging grease was, I'd leave well enough alone.. Just me..

I do bearings the old fashioned, dirty way. It's the only way you can inspect, and know for sure you have done it right.

[kevcarr59]

Just ran into a mechanic friend at the parts store and he didn't think it was good to mix the grease makers because of different recipes. I guess I'll just watch the JT-6, and have some on hand. I'll use the R & T on the WDH bars.

[Sundancer330]

It doesn't matter what brand of grease you use as the specs are the same. In the Dexter book that came with your camper it has a chart showing numerous brands of grease and what the specs need to be. I am with bansi and do it the old fashion way, takes me maybe an hour and I can also inspect and adjust the brakes. I don't like the idea of just blind pumping grease into the hub hoping it gets where its supposed to be.

[RAurand]

Just spoke with Dexter Service. Here is the video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XT0RKDGgDm8

Axel MUST be off the ground and wheel must be free spinning.


Below is the approved grease from the service manual:

[Tunce the traveler]

[QUOTE=bankr63;507138]The best explanation I have seen on Youtube is to pump the grease in very slowly while rotating the wheel (needs a floor jack). The blow out of the rear seal occurs if too much pressure is applied too quickly.

X2, you should be fine this season and before you start next season you should buy new seals ( $ ), repack with the grease you like and stick with it for as long as you own it. It's true that all grease is not compatible but a Lithium Complex is compatible with most others. What will happen if their not compatible is they'll start to break each other down and get a little runny. In a pinch you can mix them if your away from home and you'll be fine but do a change out when you get home.

[tslarson]

Regarding grease compatibility, make sure that the grease you use meets the axle manufactures recommendations and also that it is compatible with the grease already in the hub. See link on grease compatibility.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=...91513841330986

[Popcycle]

I always wonder why I can drive my car 100,000 miles and never touch the wheel bearings but Dexter says I need to regrease my trailer bearings annually whether I go 100 miles or 10,000 miles.

[Jagiven]

Originally Posted by Popcycle

I always wonder why I can drive my car 100,000 miles and never touch the wheel bearings but Dexter says I need to regrease my trailer bearings annually whether I go 100 miles or 10,000 miles.

With cars it's simple they use different bearing technology.

There have been lots of comments over the years about blown rear seals.

If you repack them manually you will see there is a very small orifice near the rear seal.

Personally I like to do the bearings manually, so they can be inspected. I have had issues with with bearings going bad on my utility trailer, and I lube them manually every few years.

Also when you pack them manually you get all the old muck out of the bearings.

[kevcarr59]

RA, thanks for the chart! I couldn't find it on the Dexter site, and I didn't realize it was the Hi-Temp #2 that is what's specified for the bearings.

When I talked with my service writer at the RV center, I was more interested in using or switching to the Lucas grease. He also did say the the Lucas was a better grease and I may still switch on the next repack. I'm definitely going to stay with the Lucas for the WDH bars & the hitch ball, since it's stayed put in those applications.

Looking at the Mystic site, there are 2 Hi-Temp #2 grease available, with differing drop points, and what looks to be better durability numbers. Matt checked with the service dept. and brought out a tube of Mystic JT-6 #2, but it was the green tube, which is Multi-Purpose and definitely not hi-temp. Also, the colors are different, with the multi-purpose being yellow, and the hi-temp is red. I checked 2 of the hubs and there is red grease on the fittings, so I assume they used the Hi-Temp instead of the yellow MP grease. I will just have to make sure.

[Seann45]

Originally Posted by kevcarr59

Looking at Dexter's site, and the YouTube video, that's EXACTLY what they do & recommend. If they recommend it, why would the RV center say NOT to do it???

.

The RV Center wants your dollars... they want you to bring in your RV to them for this.. It is just like an ad I saw the other day ... "Dewinterize your RV only $49.99" for this they hook up a hose and flush out the antifreeze and fill the water lines with .... water... How sad people fall for this...

[Bassdogs]

Originally Posted by kevcarr59

I have a couple of questions about the EZ Lube axle.

According to the service writer at our RV store, you don't want to use the lube fitting to add grease into the bearings. Using the fitting you CAN blow out the grease into the drum & contaminate the brakes. Yes, that's a possibility, but I think if you're careful, that shouldn't happen.

Looking at Dexter's site, and the YouTube video, that's EXACTLY what they do & recommend. If they recommend it, why would the RV center say NOT to do it???

Second is compatibility: According to the writer, when they repacked the bearings they used Mystic JT-6, if I changed to Lucas Red N' Tacky 2, would I have to pull the bearings and repack, or just flush the JT-6 out??

We're leaving on a 2000 mile trip Easter Sunday morning, and I want to make sure we have no problems with bearings. They were repacked last year, when we had a bearing sling some grease on the rim on the outside. This was after only about 100 miles on a brand new trailer. since the repack, we don't have 500 miles on it.

Repacking bearings annually is totally unnessary. Maybe if you end up parked in a deep puddle or drive regularily in very dusty areas, but bearings and the grease in/around them does not wear out in 500 or 5000 miles under normal conditions.

Sounds like you are new to RVing so coming on this forum is a great way to learn. Regular maintenance is a great way to keep your RV in tip top shape for a long time but over kill can lead to more harm than good. I repack my bearings after 3 years and 10,000 miles. Using that schedule, I have found my bearings are still in very good condition before each repack. If you are worried, jack up the axle and shake the wheel. A slight wiggle is normal. Open the cap/cover and inspect the grease. If it is runny or discolored you may have gotten water inside the wheel and you need a repack.

[hbravo]

I've had Dexter bearings on my previous and current trailer: a total of 12 years. Every year I carefully put grease in while spinning the wheel. Every third year I have my dealer inspect, pack and replace the seals. The bearings have always looked great and no issues with brake contamination.

I put between 4 and 9 thousand miles on my trailer a year during that time.

[Rivercityjeff]

[QUOTE=RAurand;507169]Just spoke with Dexter Service. Here is the video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XT0RKDGgDm8

Axle MUST be off the ground and wheel must be free spinning.


The best component on my Jayco is the Dexter EZ Lube axles.

It takes less time to grease them at home (or at the storage lot) than it does to drive to the RV dealer. All you need is 20 minutes, bottle jack, grease gun, and some rags. Pump out the old grease and replace with new grease.

[Isaacs]

[QUOTE=Rivercityjeff;528594]

Originally Posted by RAurand

Just spoke with Dexter Service. Here is the video:

Axle MUST be off the ground and wheel must be free spinning.


The best component on my Jayco is the Dexter EZ Lube axles.

It takes less time to grease them at home (or at the storage lot) than it does to drive to the RV dealer. All you need is 20 minutes, bottle jack, grease gun, and some rags. Pump out the old grease and replace with new grease.

I would think that a great time to do this would be after the trailer has been driven. That way, the old grease is warm and will happily find it's way out the front rather than blowing out the grease seal in the back.

[norty1]

If you go this route, Be sure to inspect the inside seals for grease when you finish. If for some reason you pump grease in and none comes out, you have a problem.