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Old 06-01-2015, 10:00 PM   #21
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SKF and Timken may supply the bearings for the EZ lube system but they just components of it. Shouldn't you follow Dexter advice on how it is supposed to be lubed on not the bearing manufacturers advice?
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Old 06-02-2015, 12:45 AM   #22
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Not a fan of ez lube axle. Bought my 06 27bh 4yrs ago. Seller said he just gives it a few shots of grease every year. So I figured it's time to inspect just to see condition of brakes and bearings. I ended up replacing all the brakes and 2 sets of bearings. Brakes totally contaminated by grease. This spring I thought I would check my brakes. All still good, repacked all bearings as I had it apart anyway and ended up replacing one bearing set. There is no replacement for a proper visual inspection. In would rather replace a bearing in my drive way than in the middle of nowhere on the side of the road some where. If you need to replace brgs or brakes go to a local spring shop - parts are WAYYYY cheaper than an RV store or jobber parts store.
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Old 06-02-2015, 06:05 AM   #23
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How are you lifting the trailer to spin wheels? are you lifting both tires on one side at the same time or a drive up jack system similar to the Anderson Jack for those that are familiar.
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Old 06-02-2015, 08:15 AM   #24
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How are you lifting the trailer to spin wheels? are you lifting both tires on one side at the same time or a drive up jack system similar to the Anderson Jack for those that are familiar.
You can lift one side of the trailer with a bottle jack against the frame between the wheels, OR lift one tire at a time with a bottle jack against the axle at the spring perch.

I purchased a 4 ton bottle jack that stays in the trailer.

Tim
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Old 06-02-2015, 09:12 AM   #25
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Here is the list of approved grease types from the Dexter website.

Don
Oh great...I used Lucas red on mine and it is not on Dexter's approved list. Is there an issue there or am I okay with Lucas grease? Whaddyaathink?

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Old 06-02-2015, 09:23 AM   #26
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Jeff you're OK, Dexter doesn't have them all on the list.
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Old 06-06-2015, 07:06 AM   #27
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I put about 20 pumps of grease in the hub before I realized I was supposed to rotate the wheel. I can't see how rotating or not the seal would blow. Anyway, after I started spinning the wheel, I put about another 20 shots in and nothing came out so I just gave up. On the other side, I spun the wheel the whole time. I got to 37 pumps before I ran out of grease.

How much grease is actually required?
Do I have to take the wheel and brake drum off to see if the seal is blown?
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Old 06-06-2015, 07:46 AM   #28
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Grey Jay- If this is your first time greasing, it may take a more than half the tube to fill up the EZ Lube system. Each axle on mine took about a tube. I guess the manufacturer greases the bearings but does not fill the EZ Lube system with grease also...IMHO. Keep slowly pumping until you see the grease coming out around the fitting. I use Lucas Red cause it's real easy to see the new grease coming out. Then check it every year or two, or less than 10,000 miles.
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Old 06-06-2015, 09:09 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grey Jay View Post
I put about 20 pumps of grease in the hub before I realized I was supposed to rotate the wheel. I can't see how rotating or not the seal would blow.
...snip
Quote:
Originally Posted by havnfun View Post
snip...
Keep slowly pumping AND TURNING THE WHEEL until you see the grease coming out around the fitting. ...snip
Grey Jay, A diagram shows the grease going through zerk, to the rear of the hub, through both bearings, and out the front. When the wheel is rotated, it doesn't take much pressure for the grease to travel thorough the bearings. A stationary wheel (and bearing) requires more pressure and can damage the seal at the rear of the hub.
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Old 06-06-2015, 12:21 PM   #30
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If you have your bearings packed by a mechanic/service center, ask them if they use the pneumatic grease gun. If they do, pray that they do not have the pressure to the gun on high, there is a good chance that it could blow the seal(s). A good practice may be to get under the TT and take pictures of the back side of the brake drum assembly (should show no signs of any grease leaking), before you take it in for service. Then if the mechanic does his thing and you have a leak, you can always show them the pictures and ask when he will have it repaired. For FREE of course. I know a couple of people that had this issue, but no pictures.

Don
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