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Old 05-05-2013, 08:30 AM   #11
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Hi Roy,
Moving this morning from Buellton, CA to Paso Robles, CA.

I will check the DC voltage on the converter once I get there.
I'll need to pull the cover off etc so I can access.

I don't like pulling with a dead battery, but have to go now before the winds get past 30mph at 10am.

I'll check in later to see what I find.

Kind regards,
Doug
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Old 05-05-2013, 08:53 AM   #12
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Doug - The IOTA IDP 30 refers to the 30AMP series power management panel. You should also have a DLS type IOTA converter/charger unit that goes with this. It should have REVERSE POLARITY fuses on its front panel where the two large BATTERY TERMINALS are connected. Be sure to check those fuses... Not knowing which INVERTER you have it may look something like this (This is a 45AMP converter I think). Note the fuse here which is your REVERSE POLARITY fuse. This will cause no 12VDC OUTPUT from the IOTA Converter module if blown.


Roy Ken
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Old 05-05-2013, 09:14 AM   #13
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BED685 - Drawing Not mine - got it off GOOGLE. It covers everthing pretty good as you can see. I was always seeing folks on here asking questions about how the trailers are hooked up. This shows it rather well I think...

You can find a bunch of my stuff I have for sending out to folks using google search - type in K9PHT 14RT

When it loads up select IMAGES" and you see many many pages of things I have at my finger tips to post rather quickly. It seems all of these forums immediately posts everyones post on google so I just use this as my working folder haha...

K9PHT 14RT are a couple of unique words I have in my signature line so when you search for that it finds about 90% of my photos posted on the forums.

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Old 05-05-2013, 09:29 AM   #14
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Doug

WEATHER CHANNEL says it suppose to die down some on the wind there today - at least where the wild fires at at...

Be careful out there my friend

I guess you got to see the ocean already around LA... Looks like you have a couple of beaches coming up between Buellton and Paso Robles.. I'm guessing I40 ended for you at Barstow haha... Been a long since I was out that way... Are you coming back VIA I40 again... The northern routes are still getting SNOW it seems...

Roy Ken
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RETIRED DOD DOAF DON CONTRACTOR Electronics Tech 42YRS

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2008 STARCRAFT 14RT OFF-ROAD POPUP with PD9260C and three 85AH 12VDC batteries
2010 F150 FX4 5.4 GAS with 3.73 gears - Super Cab - Towing Package - 2KW Honda EU2000i Gen
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Old 05-05-2013, 12:30 PM   #15
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Hi Guys,
Thanks for the information.
We made it fine here to Paso Robles and was able to check in early.

When I plugged in, everything was normal.
Frig on ac with no fault codes.
Lights normally bright

I checked the TT battery. It is now ready 11.5V, so it looks like it took a charge on the 2 hour drive?

I am suspecting the VDC output from the converter is not working and everything is currently happy with running off the battery.

I did notice the water levels need to be topped off, but no dry cells.

I checked the inline fuse on the + side of the battery cable - good.


So my next steps should be?
1. Check fuse on back of VDC converter
2. Check for 12V output from the converter to the fuse box

I guess if the VDC converter is bad, could I just buy a battery charger and hook it up to the battery via extension cord?

Otherwise I'll have to order a new converter and try to get the same one to fit the cutout?

Best regards,
Doug
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Old 05-05-2013, 01:48 PM   #16
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Ok,
Here's what I've been able to gather.
1. Volts at the large cables coming out of the converter is 11.55V
2. The green light is flashing which according to table means bulk charging.
3. I am having trouble getting the fuses out of the converter. I put probes across the back and it seems like I am getting 5.5V, but can't see well to make

4. After being hooked up a little bit, the refrigerator went to code "C" again.

5. I noticed the large blk wire running from the converter to the 12V buss panel connects with 2 blk wires going into the buss panel. The OP has used a large wire nut for this connection.

After fooling around with these wires, now the frig is back to normal ac code lit.

Currently the lights are brite and the frig is normal. Maybe this large wire nut is not making a good connection and then was running 12V stuff off the battery instead of the converter?

Here's some pics.
This is the converter I have
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Here are 2 fuses on the back of the converter that I am having trouble getting out. Tried once with needle nose pliers, but they are tight.
Do they pull straight out, no locking mechanism?

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Here are the 2 large wires coming out of the converter where I am measuring 11.55V. I'll check again after fooling with wire nut.
It is still 11.55V and 11.55V at the battery terminals

Click image for larger version

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Here is the 1 lg black feed coming from converter combined with 2 lg black wires to distribution/buss panel. Connection made with large wire nut.

Click image for larger version

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I am going to watch this situation for the afternoon and see if maybe this wire nut connection is iffy. Currently everything seems normal.

Please feel free to digest the data and pictures I've attached and let me know what you think.

In the meantime, I am going to stop by the store and get some distilled water to top off battery cells.

Best regards,
Doug
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Old 05-05-2013, 01:50 PM   #17
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Glad you made it. Good luck with isolating the problem. We are in the process of packing up the TT and heading out for 3 months in Colorado. Leaving next week..... can't wait!
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Old 05-05-2013, 02:00 PM   #18
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Check the converter voltage with the battery DISCONNECTED. Everything should operate normally when connected to shore power and the battery is DISCONNECTED. If things don't work this way and there is no poor connection problem as you described then the converter in all likelihood has failed.
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Old 05-05-2013, 02:42 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tnchuck100 View Post
Check the converter voltage with the battery DISCONNECTED. Everything should operate normally when connected to shore power and the battery is DISCONNECTED. If things don't work this way and there is no poor connection problem as you described then the converter in all likelihood has failed.
Ok,
Checked with battery disconnected.
All 12V system fall out, frig, lights etc.
No voltage (35ma) measured the large wires coming out of converter.

So, I must have been reading battery voltage and converter is bad?

There's a local parts store. I'll give them a call tomorrow and see about replacing the converter.

Looks like the converter just plugs into the 120V outlet, large common and black wires into lugs on converter.

I did probe the back sides of the fuses and have continuity through the fuses, so I think they are good.

Still can't pull the fuses to physically check. I think I'll unscrew the converter to get a better approach to the fuses, but with no voltage on the 2 large lugs on the back with the battery disconnected, that tells me what I need to know?

Looks like shopping for a converter.

Thanks for the trouble shooting help.

Best regards,
Doug
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Old 05-05-2013, 04:57 PM   #20
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Doug - I just got back inside today... It sure sounds like the converter isnt working.

You need to figure out if it is getting 120VAC from the breaker in IDP30 unit. Also with the battery disconnected the two large leads on the back of the of the DLS45/IQ4 should be reading 13.6VDC most of the time. It reads different when it changes modes but for most of the time it will be reading 13/6VDC when it is on shore power.

ALso if you determine this is bad you only need to purchase this DSL45/IQ4 unit. Not the whole IDP Power management unit that you see in the cutout.

First however you need to determine somehow if it is plugged into 120VAC. These come with a 120VAC attached cord with a standard 120VAC three prong plug on it. If you can get to that just plug it into an extension cord that has 120VAC on it and it should work.

Again all you need to purchase is the DLS45/IQ4 unit. You can order one from AMAZON and they will ship in about two days with free shipping. You can locate an address there somewhere haha...

Let us know when you for sure have IDP hooked up to 120VAC and can read 13.6VDC on its output. If it does this then that unit is ok.

Also wiggling things around seemed to get you going for a time. Those twist connections are known to make bad connections... Unscrew it off completely and re-tighten the connection with a pair of pliers if you like then replace the twist on connection. ALSO check the tightness of the two large cables that are connected to the DLS45 unit. Sometimes those allen screw get loose. Hope you got an allen hex head set...

Roy Ken
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We live in King George VA
RETIRED DOD DOAF DON CONTRACTOR Electronics Tech 42YRS

"We're burning daylight" - John Wayne
2008 STARCRAFT 14RT OFF-ROAD POPUP with PD9260C and three 85AH 12VDC batteries
2010 F150 FX4 5.4 GAS with 3.73 gears - Super Cab - Towing Package - 2KW Honda EU2000i Gen
K9PHT (since 1957) 146.52Mhz
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