Help with a SLINKY

[mharrison]

I have some ankle weights I'm going to throw in the TT just for this reason. They should be able to hold it down. Done the balancing rock act before, it doesn't always work.

[jetlag]

Originally Posted by pitman44

I'm pretty sure we've all done multiple camping things followed by the words "That's the last time I do that!" lol

Originally Posted by mharrison

I have some ankle weights I'm going to throw in the TT just for this reason. They should be able to hold it down. Done the balancing rock act before, it doesn't always work.

I learned many years ago never to say I will never do that again!! I can almost assure you I will do it next day.


I saw a rig where he had something similar, looked like a weighed bag and seemed to do the job well.

[TWP723]

That has got to be the longest run I have ever seen. Are you sure your rig was positioned correctly, because that is absurd? At that point I would've laid it on the ground and been done with it. Looks downhill anyway.

[jetlag]

Originally Posted by TWP723

That has got to be the longest run I have ever seen. Are you sure your rig was positioned correctly, because that is absurd? At that point I would've laid it on the ground and been done with it. Looks downhill anyway.

As I previously said, totally new at this. In hindsight I could have moved forward quite a ways. For whatever reason, I was fixated on the power box, and I used just a few feet of what I have available, and I had the hose positioned incorrectly on the Slinky. We did much better on our second outing

[jimmoore13]

Originally Posted by 2021JayFlight28BHS

If your sewer hose pops out where it goes in the ground they make a weight to put over the end specifically for this, I think it’s called a sewer pig or something like that, but I use the sand bags used for the ez up tent legs as a saddle over the end. This works great.

ABCCANOPY Sandbag Saddlebag Design 4 Weight Bags for Photo Video Studio Stand, Backyard,Outdoor Patio,Sports(Orange) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MAY5UKE..._Rd6y8SOzxZwpR

X-2 on this recommendation. The sandbags can both anchor the end of your stinky slinky where it enters the park's drain, and other bags can stabilize the hose on its supports. If you prefer to allow a portion of the hose to sag a bit to create a "trap," a sandbag can keep it from wandering sided to side.

It's VITAL to hold down the 90 degree adapter from your stinky slinky to the park's sewer input port, otherwise the pressure of many gallons of waste jetting out of your stinky slinky may very well dislodge the 90 degree adapter and dump waste all over the ground. Hazardous waste cleanup on aisle 2!! (Note that you'll frequently see a small pile of rocks arranged to hold down the 90 degree elbow on the business end of the stinky slinky. This can be effective, but many well-groomed RV parks don't have piles of rocks laying around.)

Since you're new to all this, I'm going to go over the top with this response...perhaps something here will be helpful.

Counterpoint on the "trap" concept: that's what your black-tank gate valve is for. One never leaves the valve open and the effluents to run down the drain continuously. This leads to a problematic buildup of solids on the floor of the black tank. Instead, keep the valve closed and wait until the tank is nearly full, then dump until empty. My preference is to also use a "dirty" collapsible garden hose straight down the toilet flush valve to further break down any solids that might dam up at the output. After shooting water down the toilet, then move to the black tank flush (if your rig has one) to finish the job. Once thoroughly dumped, close the gate valve, and this will hold the effluent until next time AND it will prevent sewer gas from entering your rig.

PS. the addition of an auxiliary dump valve on the output of your dump port enables you to close the auxiliary dump valve and gives you several advantages.
Note the hose connection for back-flushing the tank. It's purpose is obvious. Just attach your "dirty" hose and have at it. But also, by holding back the grey water dump until the holding tank is nearing full, and by waiting to dump grey water until after the black tank has been dumped, you can achieve a partial backflush of the black tank by closing the aux valve and opening both the grey and black main valves. Some grey water will gush into the black tank and help dislodge solids that might be daming up the output.

All of this takes a bit of practice and ingenuity, but I'm able to thoroughly dump both tanks and have them clean as a whistle in about 10 to 15 minutes...and that includes, in my case, using a macerator pump to dump into my sewer cleanout at home.

I have a "kit" I use at RV parks.

• Clorox Cleanup to clean all city water fittings including my Y connector;
• Brass Y connector with quarter turn ball valves to controll flow...connected to the city water hose bib at the RV park;
• Potable water hose;
• "Dirty" water hose - collapsible 50' hose complete with removable high pressure hose nozzle -- I keep this hose in its own bag separate from everything else;
• Brass quick connects for use as desired;
• Disposable rubber gloves...for obvious reasons.

Because one never knows how many dogs lifted their legs on your city water hose bib at the park, I begin by cleaning this connection, the Y connector, both hose ends on my potable water hose, the input end of my "dirty" hose, and the city water input on my rig. I let all of this "steep" in the Clorox Cleanup cleaner for about 15 minutes while I perform other setup chores. Then I thoroughly flush out my potable water hose and rinse the input to the rig. Once I have city water up and running, I also have my "dirty" hose for utility work from its flushing chores to other routine needs for non-potable water.

Enjoy your new rig!

[jetlag]

Originally Posted by jimmoore13

X-2 on this recommendation. The sandbags can both anchor the end of your stinky slinky where it enters the park's drain, and other bags can stabilize the hose on its supports. If you prefer to allow a portion of the hose to sag a bit to create a "trap," a sandbag can keep it from wandering sided to side.

It's VITAL to hold down the 90 degree adapter from your stinky slinky to the park's sewer input port, otherwise the pressure of many gallons of waste jetting out of your stinky slinky may very well dislodge the 90 degree adapter and dump waste all over the ground. Hazardous waste cleanup on aisle 2!! (Note that you'll frequently see a small pile of rocks arranged to hold down the 90 degree elbow on the business end of the stinky slinky. This can be effective, but many well-groomed RV parks don't have piles of rocks laying around.)

Since you're new to all this, I'm going to go over the top with this response...perhaps something here will be helpful.

Counterpoint on the "trap" concept: that's what your black-tank gate valve is for. One never leaves the valve open and the effluents to run down the drain continuously. This leads to a problematic buildup of solids on the floor of the black tank. Instead, keep the valve closed and wait until the tank is nearly full, then dump until empty. My preference is to also use a "dirty" collapsible garden hose straight down the toilet flush valve to further break down any solids that might dam up at the output. After shooting water down the toilet, then move to the black tank flush (if your rig has one) to finish the job. Once thoroughly dumped, close the gate valve, and this will hold the effluent until next time AND it will prevent sewer gas from entering your rig.

PS. the addition of an auxiliary dump valve on the output of your dump port enables you to close the auxiliary dump valve and gives you several advantages.
Note the hose connection for back-flushing the tank. It's purpose is obvious. Just attach your "dirty" hose and have at it. But also, by holding back the grey water dump until the holding tank is nearing full, and by waiting to dump grey water until after the black tank has been dumped, you can achieve a partial backflush of the black tank by closing the aux valve and opening both the grey and black main valves. Some grey water will gush into the black tank and help dislodge solids that might be daming up the output.

All of this takes a bit of practice and ingenuity, but I'm able to thoroughly dump both tanks and have them clean as a whistle in about 10 to 15 minutes...and that includes, in my case, using a macerator pump to dump into my sewer cleanout at home.

I have a "kit" I use at RV parks.

• Clorox Cleanup to clean all city water fittings including my Y connector;
• Brass Y connector with quarter turn ball valves to controll flow...connected to the city water hose bib at the RV park;
• Potable water hose;
• "Dirty" water hose - collapsible 50' hose complete with removable high pressure hose nozzle -- I keep this hose in its own bag separate from everything else;
• Brass quick connects for use as desired;
• Disposable rubber gloves...for obvious reasons.

Because one never knows how many dogs lifted their legs on your city water hose bib at the park, I begin by cleaning this connection, the Y connector, both hose ends on my potable water hose, the input end of my "dirty" hose, and the city water input on my rig. I let all of this "steep" in the Clorox Cleanup cleaner for about 15 minutes while I perform other setup chores. Then I thoroughly flush out my potable water hose and rinse the input to the rig. Once I have city water up and running, I also have my "dirty" hose for utility work from its flushing chores to other routine needs for non-potable water.

Enjoy your new rig!

Wow!!! Thank You, lots of good info here. Yes. we keep the black tank closed until nearly full or ready to get home, then it gets dumped, followed by the grey tanks. We have 2 black tanks and 2 gray tanks. The black tanks do have a separate flush fitting for each tank. It might have taken me longer to do it all lol, and I filled each black tank and dumped twice with fresh water before we left the camp. I may have to revisit a post from Norty1 and his pink pig!! The Aux dump valve I just ordered, thanks, what a great idea. I have been wondering how to clean the grey tanks with clean water. Now to see how it plays nice with the Valtera valve I added as a safety device to keep accidents from happening. I do have separate hose for "black" duties as well as Y connector and an intake connector with a shutoff valve and a water pressure regulator.
Rene

[jimmoore13]

Originally Posted by jetlag

<<SNIP>> I have been wondering how to clean the grey tanks with clean water. Now to see how it plays nice with the Valtera valve I added as a safety device to keep accidents from happening. I do have separate hose for "black" duties as well as Y connector and an intake connector with a shutoff valve and a water pressure regulator.
Rene

I use my "dirty" hose - after a quick spray and steep session with the Clorox Cleanup - to jet water down my sink/tub drains to flush out the traps. This fresh water going down the drains also helps flush out any solids (e.g. coffee grounds and so on) that settle on the bottom of the grey tank. It's not a perfect solution, but it helps a lot, and the drains in the rig are always perfectly clean from everything including hair and grease.

One other "trick." When parked at an RV park, solids have the chance to precipitate out of the effluent. I have the greatest success dumping at home (or a dump station) AFTER going down the road. The "motion of the ocean" agitates and emulsifies the solids far better than any cleaning in place can do. Everything gets shaken up and jostled to the point that solids tend to break down to much smaller particles. In an RV park, even the trip from a non-full-hookups site to the dump station will accomplish some of this, but nothing beats a few miles going down the road.

Another advantage of the clear output on the dump is that you can see what's moving through. Invariably, if I dump at home, the effluent is far more uniform and particle sizes are much smaller...making for a cleaner dump.

I love my macerator pump. I connect it to a dedicated 3/4" (not standard 5/8") hose, and it handles the job with ease.

I often dump or partially dump at the site. When boondocking, I have a plastic tote I use to extend my stay, but I always leave a partial load for the trip home to ensure the effluent is thoroughly agitated and emulsified before the final dump. The same is true of your grey tank.

[JFlightRisk]

We have this on board for the times it's needed. Had permission from the DW to get it... seems she really didn't like stepping on the end when I pulled the lever!

[jimmoore13]

Originally Posted by JFlightRisk

We have this on board for the times it's needed. Had permission from the DW to get it... seems she really didn't like stepping on the end when I pulled the lever!

You're a master of understatement.

[jetlag]

Originally Posted by JFlightRisk

We have this on board for the times it's needed. Had permission from the DW to get it... seems she really didn't like stepping on the end when I pulled the lever!

What do you have on board???

[jetlag]

Originally Posted by jimmoore13

I use my "dirty" hose - after a quick spray and steep session with the Clorox Cleanup - to jet water down my sink/tub drains to flush out the traps. This fresh water going down the drains also helps flush out any solids (e.g. coffee grounds and so on) that settle on the bottom of the grey tank. It's not a perfect solution, but it helps a lot, and the drains in the rig are always perfectly clean from everything including hair and grease.

One other "trick." When parked at an RV park, solids have the chance to precipitate out of the effluent. I have the greatest success dumping at home (or a dump station) AFTER going down the road. The "motion of the ocean" agitates and emulsifies the solids far better than any cleaning in place can do. Everything gets shaken up and jostled to the point that solids tend to break down to much smaller particles. In an RV park, even the trip from a non-full-hookups site to the dump station will accomplish some of this, but nothing beats a few miles going down the road.

Another advantage of the clear output on the dump is that you can see what's moving through. Invariably, if I dump at home, the effluent is far more uniform and particle sizes are much smaller...making for a cleaner dump.

I love my macerator pump. I connect it to a dedicated 3/4" (not standard 5/8") hose, and it handles the job with ease.

I often dump or partially dump at the site. When boondocking, I have a plastic tote I use to extend my stay, but I always leave a partial load for the trip home to ensure the effluent is thoroughly agitated and emulsified before the final dump. The same is true of your grey tank.

I have heard about going down the "ocean" and dislodging things. I will say my bride is VERY specific about no solids going down the sink. We go through a lot of paper towels, lol. However, she sheds hair worse than any dog I know of. We have a Sanicon dump system we have not used. Dealer explained it but made it obvious he didn't care for it.