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Old 06-14-2015, 02:44 PM   #1
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Making Room for 6V Batteries

I picked up a pair of T-105 batteries and am waiting on the Century Plastics end-to-end battery box to add to my X23B. I have spent some time googling images of mods to the tongue to make room for the pair. I know I have two choices: 1) remove and replace the existing battery tray with two angle irons of sufficient length or 2) move the propane tanks forward and mount the battery box directly to the elevated platform (designed to clear the WDH brackets).

My set up is similar to the picture below (borrowed from another thread here) except mine has two tanks.



I am rather hoping that the second choice is viable. I won't know until the box arrives and I give it a go. That said, does anyone know of someone mounting a battery box on the elevated platform with success?

I am thinking it would be better to place the batteries behind the propane tanks than vice versa for tongue weight purposes.
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Old 06-14-2015, 03:02 PM   #2
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I just looked at the battery box on line and I may have an option for you. The existing tray (angle iron) can be modified to accept the longer battery box. You can cut the angle iron sides out and put a heavy-duty metal plate as a base (weld to front and back angle iron). That will support the batteries. The parts of the tray that were cut out can be welded to the ends of the metal plate base, which would keep the box in place. Put a few screws through the plastic box bottom and you should be in business. Also you may want to drill a few drain holes in the bottom of the box (and metal base) so that any water that gets in will drain.

Don

Here is how I modified my upper battery tray to fit a larger battery box.
Attached Thumbnails
Battery Boxes with new cables.jpg  
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Old 06-14-2015, 03:07 PM   #3
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Sorry here is the correct picture of the battery tray modification
Don
Attached Thumbnails
Battery Boxes Converted.jpg  
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Old 06-14-2015, 03:43 PM   #4
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That's an ingenious solution, Don. I like it!

Quote:
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Sorry here is the correct picture of the battery tray modification
Don
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Old 06-14-2015, 03:43 PM   #5
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Don,

Thanks for your ideas. My factory battery tray is bolted. I was thinking about removing it and bolting the new box which is about 22" long and 8" wide directly to the frame right behind my Barker tongue jack. It will overlap a bit which may necessitate angle irons for added strength and peace of mind.

I can't find the image now I had no problem finding before to show this idea. The only concern raised was the potential of the truck bumper hitting the box when turning too sharply.

Edit:

Found one example...



and the other...




For the two images above, are there any concerns?
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Old 06-14-2015, 06:56 PM   #6
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I will likely follow the approach in the two pictures I edited into my previous post.

Anyway, I purchased and received the following:

5/16" stud 12" long 4 AWG battery cable
Noco GC018 12V plug socket with fuse
Innova 3721 battery and charging system monitor
E-Z-Go battery lifting strap for T-105 battery

...just waiting on the box. Meanwhile...


I am considering the Renogy 200W Mono premium kit with the 20A MPPT controller as my project in July. If so, I won't be cleaning sand out of my eu2000i after my next trip to Assateague!
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Old 08-04-2015, 08:53 PM   #7
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Update: I started work on installing my Samlex PST-600 and the Trojan 6V batteries. After hammering flat the sides on the battery tray, I was disappointed to find that the existing battery wires were just a couple inches short of connecting to the new batteries.

So, it looks like I will have to get some nuts and bolts to extend the wires. Hopefully, I will be able to complete this tomorrow evening, weather permitting.
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Old 08-05-2015, 08:51 AM   #8
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Quote:
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So, it looks like I will have to get some nuts and bolts to extend the wires. Hopefully, I will be able to complete this tomorrow evening, weather permitting.
I would not recommend using bolts to connect wires together. I would purchase a cable(s) that is long enough to connect the battery's Negative terminal directly to ground and a single piece of cable that will go from your Positive terminal directly to the TT's 12VDC terminal usually inside the 4x4 electrical box mounted on the frame. Sorry, your positive cable probably goes to your main inline 30 amp fuse then into the TT's 4x4 box. If you are planning on installing a battery cut off switch, this would be the time to do it.

When you add connectors to a circuit you add resistance and another point that can go wrong.

Also, if you replace the cables, replace them ONE AT A TIME, so as not to accidently hook them up wrong and posibly cook some of your TT's electronics. I recommend hooking up the Negative terminal to the frame first, this will eliminate a big part of accidently wiring it wrong.

Also, I would increase the size of your cables since you are more than DOUBLING your batteries Amp Hours.

Sounds like the project is well on the way... GOOD LUCK!
Don
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Old 08-05-2015, 02:50 PM   #9
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Don,

I have a 4 AWG cable connecting the 6V batteries in series. The install kit for the Samlex PST-600-12 inverter came with 2 AWG cables (better than the 4 AWG printed on the install kit label) which will be shortened to 8 or 9 feet. So, the inverter draw on the battery through the 2 AWG cables should be good.

The positive and negative wires from the HTT are 8 AWG. The negative white wire runs from a connection inside. Going from memory, there are two positive black wires spliced together with a wire nut before the 30 amp inline fuse leading to the battery positive as one wire.

My original plan was to get 8 AWG wire, crimp on ring terminals, connect with nuts and bolts and insulate with black electrical tape.

My X23B does not have a 4X4 junction box. Instead, the junction of wires are adjacent to the hole in the floor leading to the tongue in a partitioned off area under the front dinette bench (which also accommodates the big drawer). It is very accessible to re-wire.

I am on board with eliminating unnecessary connections to avoid adding resistance. Is it correct to have 8 AWG wire to connect the "junction box" to the battery? I believe the answer is yes.
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Old 08-08-2015, 08:15 PM   #10
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Okay, I have completed the install of the 6V batteries on my X23B. The key tip is to situate the box to the back of the existing battery tray to accommodate the lever of the sway bar. I am glad I though of it before proceeding.

The first picture shows the mod to the battery tray and the hardware to mount the box to the frame.



The next two pictures show the pre-existing hole being used to mount the box and the hardware to make it so. I used 3/8 bolt, washer, rubber washer, fender washer, locking washer and nut.





The next picture shows the box mounted. The rubber washer serves to seal the box and to cushion the plastic box from the hardware.



Here, the batteries are connected.



Below is a side view.



One more view.

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Old 08-08-2015, 08:36 PM   #11
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NICE JOB!!!

The only suggestion that I would make is go to Home Depot and get a piece of metal strip the width of that recessed slot where the bolts are, cut it to the proper length, drill out your 2 mounting holes and bolt it in. This will make the mounting a lot stronger.

Better to be safe than sorry.


Looks GREAT

Don
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Old 08-08-2015, 09:11 PM   #12
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Great idea! Thanks!
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Old 08-10-2015, 10:06 PM   #13
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Where did you find the double battery tray?
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Old 08-11-2015, 01:21 AM   #14
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Century Plastics: White Heavy Duty Battery Box - (part#: GCE-G)
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Old 04-07-2016, 05:21 PM   #15
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Thanks Sebring. As a former fabricator mounting that will be ez for me - you should see my deluxe sewer hose compartment! lol I even put some "windows" for a visual check on the hose because you know SQUIRREL.

Whats the advantage to 2 x 6v Im assuming Amperage and longevity?
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Old 04-07-2016, 05:22 PM   #16
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*Also for $53 dollars its not worth making yourself :-)
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Old 01-25-2017, 11:20 PM   #17
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thanks for the link!
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Old 01-26-2017, 07:55 PM   #18
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That's a really clean installation! I see you must have a NOCO battery charger, those are excellent for maintaining and charging batteries. I have one for my J185 batteries.
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Old 01-27-2017, 09:15 AM   #19
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Nice Job!!!!

I would still recommend putting a piece of metal across the bottom of the plastic case and drill out two bolt holes. I would hate to see you lose those batteries when going over some of those nasty bumps/holes. The side-way weight shifts will be an issue, with the case extending over the ends of the battery frame area. You are you are probably playing with about 140 pounds of weight and the plastic case bottom is no match for that. Keep checking the case for any cracks that may form from the bolt holes.

$$$

Looks GREAT!!!

Just my thoughts

Don

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Old 01-27-2017, 09:50 AM   #20
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I'm looking to change to 2 - 6v batteries this spring; thanks for info.
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