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Old 11-29-2012, 11:20 PM   #1
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New to me 2007 19H, what should I do?

Just purchased a 2007 Jay Feather EXP 19H and want to do a thorough once over to make sure everything is caught up. The previous owner seems to have taken great care of it, but I want to be sure I can as well for years to come. What should I replace, check, etc? Coming from a tent trailer so most of this is new to me. For roof maintenance will the roof support me? (around 175#). Thanks guys!
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Old 11-29-2012, 11:25 PM   #2
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Congratulations on your new camper. Yes the roof will support your weight. Check the caulking on the roof. If it is has cracked pulled up, etc. don't remove the old caulk, add more to it. I would sanitize the water system, clean the black and grey water tanks, and just look for any problems. Enjoy the new camper.
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2010 Jayco 17Z Ex-Port
2004 Ford Explorer V8 with the tow package
2010 Camping Stats
Nights Camping 132 - Nights Camping in My Z 102
2011 Camping Stats
Nights Camping 107
2012 Camping Stats
Nights camping 133 - Nights camping in my Z 128
2013 Camping Stats
Nights Camping 66 Nights
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Old 11-30-2012, 01:54 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by tlhdoc View Post
Congratulations on your new camper. Yes the roof will support your weight. Check the caulking on the roof. If it is has cracked pulled up, etc. don't remove the old caulk, add more to it. I would sanitize the water system, clean the black and grey water tanks, and just look for any problems. Enjoy the new camper.
Thanks for the reply!

The previous owner used it often so the fresh water should be good. It wouldn't hurt to do it though. I did notice the black and grey water sensors are not working, but after searching here that is pretty normal. What is the best way to clean them? If I do any caulking anywhere else do I also not remove the old caulk or is that just the roof? What is the best caulk to use for this application?
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Old 11-30-2012, 07:26 AM   #4
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In your owners manual, it should give you a good list of things to check and all places that use caulking.
If you don't have a manual, you can email Jayco with your VIN and they will email you one in about 20 minutes.
service@yaco.com

I would ad:

Get under and inspect the frame. Coat any rust with rust stopper and then final coat with truck bed liner
Check gease in wheel bearings, address any rust on hubs etc.
Check A/C mount bolts from the inside. Remove 4 screws holding cover to get to them. A lot of people find these loose.
Check the tongue area for any rust, treat and paint. Looks all nice and shiney again :-)
If you add caulking over old, use a paint brush and work the new into the cracks etc. Lot's of Youtube Video's on roof maintenace, electric brakes and wheel bearings.
I took all wheels off (steel) applied rust stop to back sides, and primered for protection. They develop rust.
I addressed outside of wheels as well, primered, painted white they look like new.
Check your tires. Tires are usually replaced on age versus tread wear. 5-7 years. There's a 4 digit code molded into the tire for month/year I believe. After DOT symbol.
Rust stop, paint and grease the screws for any stabalizers.
Check which roof material you have. Probably rubber, so you'll need to use a butyl caulk.
In your manual, you'll also find a list of about 50 common spare parts and their part numbers, where to purchase. Print it off and keep it handy.

Best regards,
Doug
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:11 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by brockeverly View Post
Thanks for the reply!

The previous owner used it often so the fresh water should be good. It wouldn't hurt to do it though. I did notice the black and grey water sensors are not working, but after searching here that is pretty normal. What is the best way to clean them? If I do any caulking anywhere else do I also not remove the old caulk or is that just the roof? What is the best caulk to use for this application?

You should sanatize the water system at the beginning of every camping season and any time it hasn't been used for a while. I would add some water and a bag of ice to the black tank then tow the trailer. You can also get a sprayer that you can install in the side of the tank, or on a stick to put down the toilet. I use Calgon Water Softner (in the laundry isle) in both tanks. It helps prevent stuff from sticking to the sides of the tank. The grey tank you cant access directly so I would use hot soapy water with Calgon and let it soak a few days. Drain it and they do it again. They also sell chemicals to help clear the contacts.

For your rubber roof ONLY use Dico self leveling lap sealant. It will spread and level itself out. The rubber is a very thin membrane. You may tear it if you try to remove the old caulk. Other places you can remove old caulk.
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Tracy from Central PA

2010 Jayco 17Z Ex-Port
2004 Ford Explorer V8 with the tow package
2010 Camping Stats
Nights Camping 132 - Nights Camping in My Z 102
2011 Camping Stats
Nights Camping 107
2012 Camping Stats
Nights camping 133 - Nights camping in my Z 128
2013 Camping Stats
Nights Camping 66 Nights
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:42 AM   #6
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I would also recomend a 50' x 4" roll of Eternalbond tape.
It's a Butyl tape that can be used to repair a hole in the roofing from a branch or seal any seams that may come loose or appear to be on the verge.
http://www.eternabond.com/

Grainger sells it for about $100, Amazon about $65
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:50 AM   #7
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2x on the eternabond tape.. many people have been using that to replace the calking with... and once done it lasts forever.. I bought 2 rolls last month and when I get motivated enough I will get up on the roof and git-er-done..
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Old 11-30-2012, 02:47 PM   #8
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If I do every seam with eternabond can I put it right over the existing caulking? It would get pricey but my time is worth more to me than my money. I want the trailer to be perfect for years to come so its a small cost to avoid headaches later.
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Old 11-30-2012, 03:40 PM   #9
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Yes,
You can go directly over the exisiting caulking. You have to make sure you press every little wrinkle that may occur.

There is several good videos on RV Roof repair and Eternabond use.

Personally, I would try to take up the old caulking. The type of caulking used on RV's seems to come off pretty cleanly. Never use silicone, because nothing else will stick to it and it's very agressive to get off, usually resulting in tears and holes.

Here's a couple video's. I just used the seam tape and cleaned before application with Acetone.






Best regards,
Doug
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Old 11-30-2012, 04:34 PM   #10
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If you are close to the garage - pick up an 25-foot 10 or 12 gauge quality extension cord and a RV30A-15A long 18-inch long adapter (WALMART). This will allow you to plug your trailer 30A shore power cord into your garage 120VAC 15A receptacle and then you can go fire up everything inside your trailer off of the shore power connection. You can even camp over night in it as often as you like. This will let you check out everything while you are at home. This also gives you a quick idea on things you might need before you go camping down the road.

This will allow you to charge up your on-board battery. Everything in your trailer will work from the 120VAC garage receptacle but with a couple of the high wattage items like the Air Conditioner and maybe the Microwave you won't be able to run them at the same time or it will trip your house circuit breaker.

Alot of us do this so this is nothing to worry about. You do need to use the HD extension cord and only the 10GAUGE or 12Gauge (10-3 or 12-3)/ DO NOT USE the cheap 14-gauge red color extension cords from WALMART. If your standard trailer cord will reach the 120VAC garage receptacle without the extension cord just us eit directly using the 18-inch long RV30A to 15A adapter. Also be sure to use the 18-inch long "dogbone" type adapter. The small round black ones may get hot on you after using just a short time.

Roy Ken
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