Pex line water leak

[namusmc65]

Originally Posted by wfinigan

The RV Doctor: Properly Testing RV Fresh Water System

Ordered the part that screws into the water input on the camper from FMCA. Lets you do a leak test on the water system with air pressure instead of water pressure. Just set the pressure on the air compressor.

Are these available already made up???

[Higgy]

Originally Posted by namusmc65

Are these available already made up???

https://www.amazon.ca/Camco-36153-Br...93809914&psc=1



with this attachment you can put a little in at a time too and check the pressure. Wouldnt put it over 20-30 psi though. Will be plenty of pressure for the test. Air pressure test is different than a hydraulic/water test. this will be equivalent to 40-60 psi water. The lines can hold the higher pressures but not sure of the fittings but to be safe thats what i would do.

[Fruit Creek]

We had the same kind of a leak. Our outside kitchen is directly beneath the kitchen sink. The PEX fitting to the outside cold water faucet started leaking and we found water on the linoleum. Was able to do a quick fix with a plug and then complete repair upon returning home.

[wfinigan]

The idea behind using the blue adapter from FMCA is it holds open the check valve on the camper. Otherwise you couldn't do a timed leak down test. At the time I didn't find any pre-built ones. But I got all the parts necessary at Home Depot. Easy assembly. Just the blue adapter, air gauge, valve to close to hold the air pressure in, and an air chuck fitting. The fittings from Home Depot even had some sealant on them and I didn't even have to use teflon tape. I just put in I think it was about 20# of air pressure, closed the valve, and came back later to see if the pressure held.

[JudyB]

Just to add a different slant on this..we had a leak of unknown origin inside the bathroom cupboard which initially showed as a leak near the toilet, then inside the cabinet. Took it to dealer and discovered it was a defective manifold in the bathroom faucets. Changed out the faucet and got rid of the leak.

[GABob]

Just don't unscrew the plug in the hot water tank under air pressure to see if there is any water left. That sucker will shoot out on ya


I'm still learnin'...

[Lorraine]

I had pinhole leaks in my hot and cold intake lines under the sofa. The reason? There was a board above the lines with straight staples poking the lines! What genius designed THAT? I figure the staples kept the holes plugged... until they didn't. Getting the sofa out so the mobile RV repair guy could get to the lines was a ton of fun. I bought this BRAND NEW 2018 Jayco Jayflight 212 in May, not realizing it would come with so many problems.

[madmaxmutt]

Originally Posted by MMoran

Hi Wags,

Thanks for the response. However, I can assure you that the PEX line isnt the hill I'm dying on. It's just everything. 3 out of 5 trips my family wasnt able to shower in our own (new) RV because of faulty boards in the water heater. I know...not Jayco. 1 trip in the direct middle of the summer here in South Carolina with unbearable heat and humidity, the AC didnt work...at all. Two of the trips we've experienced the PEX line blowing and putting water everywhere inside. And yes, I've used the regulator from day one. The issue here, it seems, is that the ID of the hot water PEX line is too big in diameter...and not by much, but enough that it does not hold, no matter how many PEX line clamps you use. After the first blowout I began using two claps AND had to "bulk up" the diameter of the brass elbow that I'm crimping the PEX line to, as well as, wrapping the outside of the pex line to further bulk up the diameter to (hopefully) get a tighter crimp on the line.

It's just been nothing but problems and yes, I understand that all manufacturers will have issues but it infuriates me to think that pill is so easily swallowed by so many. This enables the manufacturer(s) to get away with this, thus nothing changes. I bet if there was a lemon law enacted, it would change!

Originally Posted by wags999

I've done a lot of pex and never saw an oversized pipe, but a first for everything. On crimping the clamps, have you "set" your crimpers? Most come with a gauge, allowing you to adjust the crimpers to get the proper pressure. Seems odd the ID was too big, but the OD was too small ?? Perhaps your tool is not adjusted to the proper pressure, worth a look. I have the shark bite crimping tool and since I don't use it very often anymore, I check it before using, only takes a few seconds. Almost like gapping spark plugs. Sorry about the water heater board, what happened to the AC? I know the furnace boards are highly susceptible to even static electric.

Hope you get it all repaired and have no more issues.

I would guess his RV has PEX flair-it fittings. They would make the connection expand a little at the end, wouldn't they? Maybe he could cut them off and replace with shark bites, if there is enough spare tubing or run a new tube section. I seriously doubt the are PEX expansion fittings from his earlier description and the factories are probably too cheap to do it.

Originally Posted by Higgy

The lines can hold the higher pressures but not sure of the fittings but to be safe thats what i would do.

It pretty much has to be the fittings and fixtures. The PEX itself is the same as in homes. Our house is PEX and the water pressure is 100PSI +. Any RV fitting I replace becomes a shark bite from Home Depot or Lowes. Those are certified to 200PSI. None of the "RV" PEX fittings I see offered show any rating at all.

[rogerthedodger]

I think you are right, the weakest link in the water system is the fittings. I had a water leak at the valves that switch from external water to pump. The threads were leaking, the seal material deteriated and I had to take them apart and use Teflon tape. No big deal, my rv is 9+ years old. I would not tolerate such a leak on a new unit.