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Old 04-16-2015, 08:26 AM   #11
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Ditto with the brass plug replacement. No more skinned knuckles trying to remove the plastic plug'
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Old 04-16-2015, 09:00 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by norty1 View Post
What ever you you use, Make sure you have a spare. I had a nylon plug blow out of my water heater once. Removing them causes wear so a replacement is cheap insurance.

Ditto!
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Old 04-16-2015, 09:30 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by norty1 View Post
What ever you you use, Make sure you have a spare. I had a nylon plug blow out of my water heater once. Removing them causes wear so a replacement is cheap insurance.
+1

You can pick up a two pack of of the plastic ones just about anywhere. I bought a pack and threw them in my "parts" drawer in the TT. Did that shortly after I removed the plug with the tank under pressure and it shot out into the lawn (I didn't know the tank was under pressure and didn't bother to lift the relief valve ) I figured "some day that plug is going to strip out or break".

My plan is to tap a valve into the plastic plug. This way I don't have to worry about dissimilar metal corrosion (regardless of the likelihood of it actually happening) and my plastic plug has never leaked. I don't tape it, but I carry tape in the aforementioned "parts" drawer.
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Old 04-16-2015, 12:15 PM   #14
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For all those using Brass, or planning to use brass, those are not recommended do to dissimilar metal reaction with the aluminum tank. If you do go forth with brass, use heavy Teflon tape to provide a barrier between brass and aluminum.
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Old 04-16-2015, 01:48 PM   #15
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I agree with Clubhouse's word of caution.

Using "any" type of metal threaded plug, drain, fitting,, etc.., in the Atwood aluminum tank can create a corrosive reaction (electrolysis) within the tank. One should find that all threaded connections on the aluminum tank are plastic for this reason.

Bob
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Old 04-16-2015, 03:48 PM   #16
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Does anyone know for sure that this plug is a 3/4NPT? Looks like it to me but not 100% sure. I need to get a spare also to keep in my "spare stuff" or "Just in case" box.
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Old 04-16-2015, 04:15 PM   #17
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Post #11 in this thread.

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f7...twood-313.html

He tapped a valve into the existing plastic plug. Use a little tape on the original nylon plug, and this way you don't have to worry at all about dissimilar metals.
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Old 04-16-2015, 06:03 PM   #18
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I do not use teflon tape, and with a 15/16" socket and extension access and removal/installation is easy at least on my particular heater which is an Atwood 6 gallon.
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Old 04-16-2015, 06:14 PM   #19
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Tape acts like a lubricate. Doesn't really have sealing properties it allows you to get that extra turn or to to prevent leaks. Brass on brass connection doesn't require tape being it's a pretty soft metal however a little tape goes along way. Stainless steel you definitely would want to tape because otherwise you have a good chance of gulling likewise with aluminum also. Pipe dope i believe can act like a sealant as well as a lube.

This is what was told to me and also has been my experiences with the types of metal. Never hurts to tape it. Just remember if it's a gas fitting use the right tape.
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Old 04-16-2015, 07:41 PM   #20
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Thanks all. Great input!
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