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02-08-2016, 07:31 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Port Orchard
Posts: 2,064
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Power plug melted
Last week I was drawing close to the full 30 amps using the heat pump and a 1500 watt heater in my MH. A bit later I left the rig and for some reason checked my power plug. It was more than warm. Shut everything down and unplugged it to find a melted plug. Immediately went and ordered a new plug, replaced it today and being ever curious about causes of this kind of stuff, tore into the plug. Found an obviously bad crimp on the black wire which is the main power in. So, if any of you fellow campers happen to notice this kind of problem with your power cord, consider replacing it as you're in for trouble in the future.
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Don
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02-08-2016, 07:35 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Magnolia
Posts: 4,841
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Good thing you caught it early
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2016 North Point 377 RLBH, with a few mods, disc brakes, shocks, Sailun g rated tires, wet bolts
2014 Ford F350 Platinum sold
2017 Ford F350 Lariat, CC, 6.7PSD, DRW, Trailer Saver BD3 hitch
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02-08-2016, 08:03 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Where ever the boss says we're going.
Posts: 16,107
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Could also be caused by a bad receptacle (loose connection) on the post. They get worn out over time.
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DISNEY LOVERS
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02-08-2016, 08:21 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Port Orchard
Posts: 2,064
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I was using my home hookup which doesn't get used and abuse like the campground receptacles. I agree that it could have been the receptacle but dissection proved otherwise. The crimp on the black wire shown to the right of the plug was loose. I could wiggle the wire in the crimp.
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Don
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02-08-2016, 09:13 PM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Virginia`s Eastern Shore
Posts: 17,093
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Not a pretty sight!
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2017 Coachmen Catalina 283RKS
2018 Ford F250 Super Duty 6.2l CCSB
2010 Jayflight 28BHS (sold)
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02-08-2016, 10:05 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Houston
Posts: 781
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Were you using an EMS?
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2016 Jayco Eagle 330RSTS = " Madame Maxime"
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02-08-2016, 10:37 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Port Orchard
Posts: 2,064
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Yes
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Don
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02-09-2016, 07:34 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Houston
Posts: 781
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoppers4
Yes
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That's not very encouraging. I would have thought it would have caught something like this.
Glad it did not cause further damage and no one was hurt.
__________________
2016 Jayco Eagle 330RSTS = " Madame Maxime"
Maxxis M8008 E rated Tires and 16" Wheel Upgrade
Dual A/C 15K BTU, 14K Equalizer WD hitch with SC
King Bed with Java Interior, (2X) Yamaha EF2000isV2
2012 Ram 4500, 6.7L Cummins Turbo Diesel, MegaCab = " Hagrid"
8'x12' BMCM Stake Bed, Cabin Chassis, 2WD
360 degree Virtual Tour
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02-09-2016, 07:42 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Missoula, Montana
Posts: 704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoppers4
Yes
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Curious which one.
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"I might be movin' to Montana soon..."
2020 Outdoors RV Glacier Peak Titanium
2013 Eagle 29.5RKS (traded in)
2013 Ford 6.7L diesel F350
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02-09-2016, 07:59 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Port Orchard
Posts: 2,064
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I keep a pretty close eye on the voltage in the RV even with an EMS. I'm always aware of what I have turned on so have a pretty good idea of the current draw. Neither voltage nor current draw was exceeded. This was an overheated connection caused by a bad crimp. Voltage was still being maintained for the duration.
PI PTC 30.
I've noticed a bit of discoloration before but never overheating like this.
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Don
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02-09-2016, 08:15 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Houston
Posts: 781
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I would have thought there would have been some voltage drop as the resistance increased.
__________________
2016 Jayco Eagle 330RSTS = " Madame Maxime"
Maxxis M8008 E rated Tires and 16" Wheel Upgrade
Dual A/C 15K BTU, 14K Equalizer WD hitch with SC
King Bed with Java Interior, (2X) Yamaha EF2000isV2
2012 Ram 4500, 6.7L Cummins Turbo Diesel, MegaCab = " Hagrid"
8'x12' BMCM Stake Bed, Cabin Chassis, 2WD
360 degree Virtual Tour
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02-09-2016, 08:19 AM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Columbus
Posts: 55
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Contact, contact, contact.
EMS will not catch a bad contact between the leads....
What happens is that a bad contact is a reduced area for the current to go through.
Depending on how big the current is, this reduced area will start to heat up and can melt everything.
The EMS will not pick that up for it's not a higher current or current loss...
That is the same principle applied to the robotic arms that solder cars body parts in the production line, but in that case the resistance and current are calculated in a such way that they are in the amount and time duration just enough to melt and "solder" the two sheet metal together.
you can have a power cable capable of 1000 amps but if you have a bad connection you can melt the connectors with 5 amps.
Always keep your leads clean and avoid connections that looks "loose".
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Ricardo & Luciana
For a person may labor with wisdom, knowledge and skill, and then they must leave all they own to another who has not toiled for it. This too is meaningless ... Ecclesiastes 2:21
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02-09-2016, 08:19 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Port Orchard
Posts: 2,064
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There had to be some voltage drop for sure. A volt or 2 with 25 amps headed down the hose would be enough to cause the problem. I never saw anything below 110VAC.
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Don
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02-09-2016, 08:32 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Pearl River, Louisiana
Posts: 116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoppers4
I was using my home hookup which doesn't get used and abuse like the campground receptacles. I agree that it could have been the receptacle but dissection proved otherwise. The crimp on the black wire shown to the right of the plug was loose. I could wiggle the wire in the crimp.
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One of the pitfalls of poor workmanship in the manufacture of the molded plug. You can't check anything until you destroy it.
I think everyone should perform a heat test on the plug (both ends of your power cord) whenever you use it. It should never be more than just warm to the touch. Watch for the prongs turning brown as the metal anneals from the heat in a bad connection. If the prong is scarred from arcing, use a file and wire brush to improve and reshape the metal and take off any corrosion. I use a non gritted connector inhibitor on the plugs and sockets on all my extension cords ... it may be a bit messy, but the shinny brass is a good sign.
Good Camping .......... Swampy
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02-09-2016, 09:05 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Port Orchard
Posts: 2,064
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swampy
One of the pitfalls of poor workmanship in the manufacture of the molded plug. You can't check anything until you destroy it.
I think everyone should perform a heat test on the plug (both ends of your power cord) whenever you use it. It should never be more than just warm to the touch. Watch for the prongs turning brown as the metal anneals from the heat in a bad connection. If the prong is scarred from arcing, use a file and wire brush to improve and reshape the metal and take off any corrosion. I use a non gritted connector inhibitor on the plugs and sockets on all my extension cords ... it may be a bit messy, but the shinny brass is a good sign.
Good Camping .......... Swampy
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Good observation and advice Swampy. What inhibitor product do you use on your plugs and and receptacles?
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Don
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02-09-2016, 09:36 AM
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#16
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Clearwater, FL area
Posts: 5,196
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I had a melted plug end on our old TravelManor TT. I was in the TT and noticed that the AC compressor did not sound right. Went out to check the plug, it was just starting to melt on the HOT side. Shut the breaker off and noticed that the receptacle was loose, the HOT prong was totally black from not making a tight connection. I pulled out my 50 amp adapter checked the receptacle and it was tight. I checked the cord, wiring, cleaned up the contacts and used the 50 amp receptacle. I have been using the 50amp receptacles since then. They get a lot less usage than the 30amp receptacles.
If I had not heard the AC sounds, could have burned out the compressor motor $$$.
Don
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02-09-2016, 09:43 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Port Orchard
Posts: 2,064
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustang65
I have been using the 50amp receptacles since then. They get a lot less usage than the 30amp receptacles.
If I had not heard the AC sounds, could have burned out the compressor motor $$$.
Don
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Good observation on using the 50A adapter Mustang. I've also found that if the voltage is low using the 30A plug that the power MAY be better using the 50A adapter. Perhaps it's using the other 115VAC leg coming into the box and therefore is better.
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Don
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02-09-2016, 09:44 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Pearl River, Louisiana
Posts: 116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoppers4
Good observation and advice Swampy. What inhibitor product do you use on your plugs and and receptacles?
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I use Versa-Seal by Hubbell Power Systems, Inc. model VS-8B It comes in an 8 oz. mustard squeeze bottle (I don't recommend trying to eat it, but the compound is yellow like mustard.) This stuff is great on battery terminals, too. This will even keep aluminum connections from oxidizing.
You should be able to find it at an electrical supply house or if you know someone that works for an electric utility, they can probably get you a bottle at a better price.
Good luck with the electrical ........... Swampy ... Jim Knoch
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02-09-2016, 10:09 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Port Orchard
Posts: 2,064
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Interesting stuff that Versa-seal. Not available on-line except a 12 pack on ebay. Next time I'm at an electrical supply joint I'll pick some up. Thanks for the heads up.
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Don
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