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Old 07-04-2016, 02:24 PM   #1
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Problem with DC power on Jayco 1207

Hi All,
I am new to the forum, this is my first post, hopefully someone can help me out. I have a 2010 Jayco 1207 pop-up camper for starters. I went out camping this weekend and when we arrived at our friends cottage and set up I found out that the lights and radio were not working. I assumed that the trailer battery was dead, and was not being charged while we were driving. I had connectivity issues with the trailer connector last year. I plugged in the generator and ran it for a while, still no lights or radio.

Next I assumed that the battery was not working so I checked the voltage, 12.6Vdc. This lead me to the power converter, I checked the fuses and they were all good. Made sure that the breakers were on, although this would have nothing to do with the lights and radio. Then I began checking for power at the fuses. The fuse on the right is labeled Charge Line, I had 12Vdc coming in on this. The remainder of the fuses had no power. I then ran an extension cord to my friends trailer who was plugged in to a power outlet. When plugged in, everything in the trailer worked.

I guess my biggest question is that I was under the understanding that when plugged into AC power the converter switched it to DC to run the DC devices. If this is the case why would it not work on battery but worked when plugged into shore power?

It seems to me like this is a simple switch somewhere that isn't making, is there any switches in the trailer or in the converter that locks out DC power? If so, again why would it work on AC?

I camped dry a few times last year and had no issues. This is the first time this year that I was trying to camp on just the battery. I have a dry trip in a few weeks and wanted to make sure everything was working.

Any help would be appreciated or if you need any other information please let me know. Thanks.
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Old 07-04-2016, 03:33 PM   #2
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CONGRATULATIONS on the JAYCO!!!

...and WELCOME TO JOF!!! The members here are GREAT!!! There is a lot of GREAT information to be found here. I am sure that you will have information and pictures to share with us... so please do!!


Can you look at the power control center and let us know what the make and model are..
Thanks
Don
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Old 07-04-2016, 03:49 PM   #3
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I guess that would be some good information, sorry about that. It is an Elixir, the only thing I can find that looks like a model number is ELX-30 with a S/N10700013.
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Old 07-04-2016, 04:20 PM   #4
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The unit has a reverse battery polarity fuse that may have blown. Check that and all your fuses with a volt/ohm meter, as looks can be deceiving. Also make sure that the white wire and red wire on this unit are nice and tight.

Make sure the white wire from the batteries negative terminal has a good connection to the frame.

Hope this helps, but remember while you are working on this make sure your TT is not connected to shore power, as you may accidently touch one of the hot AC wires back there.

Don
https://www.livinlite.com/pdf/Elixir12_30Manual.pdf
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Old 07-04-2016, 06:29 PM   #5
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I rang out all the fuses tonight with my meter and they are all good. I will check that connection to the frame and see what that looks like tomorrow after work. That would be great if that's all it is! Thanks so much for your help.
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Old 07-04-2016, 07:29 PM   #6
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Only do this as a last resort You will need to take the back cover off the power supply and see if the fuse on the circuit board is blown. If so replace it. It should be the old style glass fuse.
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Old 07-05-2016, 09:07 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coyote251 View Post
Hi All,

...I was under the understanding that when plugged into AC power the converter switched it to DC to run the DC devices. If this is the case why would it not work on battery but worked when plugged into shore power?

It seems to me like this is a simple switch somewhere that isn't making, is there any switches in the trailer or in the converter that locks out DC power? If so, again why would it work on AC?...
The converter does indeed CONVERT Alternating Current to Direct Current.
When plugged in, everything working is a good sign.

This just means there is a fault somewhere between the battery and the converter. The reverse polarity fuse is a good guess... but it sounds like the truck is sending a charge to the battery while driving, or else you'd have even less than 12.6 VDC at the battery. (so... if you're getting current from the TV the battery is probably not wired backwards.)

My guess is the battery is properly grounded, (based on the 12.6 V test)

I'm thinking a loose wire. you need to trace the wire from the battery back into the camper. Open the junction box and check for loose wire nuts.

Next, keep manually tracing the wire back to the converter, physically and visually follow the wire.

The only lock-out switch that usually exists is a pressure switch that kills the furnace when the sink cabinet is folded down for transport. That push button switch can get smashed and broken if the kitchen sink comes down too hard.

If you find no loose wires or any fuses that you weren't aware of, then the converter itself might have a problem.
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Old 07-06-2016, 05:14 PM   #8
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Problem fixed! Replace battery connectors and cleaned up the negative ground on the frame. Then I went to pull the 30 amp fuse out of the fuse-able link at the battery to check it, The fuse holder was all calcified and the fuse was calcified inside. Ohm'd out the fuse and had no continuity. So I replaced the fuse holder with a heavy-duty weather proof one and replaced the fuse, everything is working. My only question now is that this fuse was on the positive cable lead, if it was pooched how did I have 12Vdc on the "Charge Line" fuse at the power center with the trailer disconnected from shore power???

Thanks for the help everyone! Much Appreciated!
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Old 07-06-2016, 06:35 PM   #9
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My only question now is that this fuse was on the positive cable lead, if it was pooched how did I have 12Vdc on the "Charge Line" fuse at the power center with the trailer disconnected from shore power???

Thanks for the help everyone! Much Appreciated!
My thoughts were that since you had mentioned that the inside of your fuse container was all corroded that it was allowing some voltage to leak across the case and the blown fuse prongs to drive you crazy. Usually when you have voltage reading that are all over the place it is more than likely a loose connection, a corroded connection or both.

Glad you were able to figure it out. Now you are a PRO at these types of problems and when that next person with the same issue asks for help.. you can jump right in and suggest everything you did to correct your problem.

Don
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