Progressive surge hard wired

[Lake Huron]

I'm looking at installing a Progressive EMS- HW50.

A few questions..

Anyone have one that tripped/failed and needed replacement parts, was your rig completely down or were you able to put it in bypass off the remote and still have power?

Unit trips due to a (minor) surge, will it need replacement parts or can you reset it?

Scenario... camping in the heat of summer, both A/C units on and then the residential fridge kicks on and drops the voltage too low. The unit trips and notices the power is back to "normal" and restores power to the rig. With the power restored, things start coming back on and the voltage drops too low again because the fridge, A/C unit(s), etc. come back on line and it trips again. Is this going to keep happening over and over or will it do it a set amount (3?) of times and then lock out like a furnace or hot water heater would do?

My trailer is a 50A with a transfer switch for a genny, which I do not have one installed. Should I install this between the transfer switch and the main breaker panel?
Also, we camp at some parks that don't have 50A service, so I have to use a 30A to 50A adapter. Does the adapter take the one side of the hot and make it two and would the unit have any issues with the use of the adapter?

Thanks in advance!!

[Cavie]

By pass will allow electric to pass thru. You will have to remove it to get it fixed.
If it does not bypass you will have to remove it.

My opinion is EMS not required on Genny so before the ATS is the place. My personal choice is portable. You can check the PED before even backing in.

It will continue to reset. It is protecting your A/C compressor and fridge motor if resi. Electronics not so much.

The dog bone will take of the 50/30 problem.

[Magnolia Tom]

I don’t know the technical answer to your question but I can tell you I’ve never had any issues with my 3 AC units and residential refrigerator. I also wired mine so that I could remove it and return the trailer to stock if ever the EMS failed. (Or take it with me when I upgrade trailers)

[Lake Huron]

Ok. THANKS!!

[Marcm157]

I've had to use mine in bypass mode only once - worked fine but as others have said, I installed it with the ability to physically bypass it IF the bypass mode ever failed to operate. I also had to create a "Jumper" because my inverter generator has a floating neutral and the Progressive EMS sees that as a fault and will not allow genny power to pass through.

[curver900]

I wired mine so the genny has to run through it...

[RedHorse1]

Mine has been in service since ‘14 with no problems. There’ve been some failures but not mine. That said, I could remove mine with a little effort if it did fail.

[DrSmart]

If the power drops enough to trip the HW50, its doing its job and protecting your ACs and fridge. Depends on the park you're in and whether or not their power distribution is adequate. If its not, could you get by with one AC? That would reduce your power draw and you might stay above the cut out voltage of the HW50. Our previous SOB had one AC and we would manage by closing the bedroom door during the day to reduce the square footage being cooled.
Our new rig has an HW50, 2 ACs and a residential fridge. No problems in 90F where we stayed.

[Stevek10]

I installed the hard wired model and there have been several times when the power in the park was low enough to trip the unit. Was never an issue of what I was running but just what was coming in to the pedestal. I does suck when it's close enough to the trip point to keep cycling on and off. I've had to bypass knowing that I'm leaving myself unprotected but having to choose between camping and going home. It is neat seeing how many volts are coming in and seeing the difference between legs. Most campgrounds dont realize that they've overloaded one side.

[RoadrunnerII]

We had a portable and it worked fine until it got moisture inside. Problem was some campground hookups are to close to ground which forced us to bend the cord on the portable unit. The seal around the cord failed and that was the end of it. I went with the progressive industries HW50 with remote. I have it mounted beside the Converter fuse panel behind the propane carbon monoxide sensor. Never used the bypass yet. Run the trailer on one A/C, hot water on electric, microwave, ceiling fan, TV and lights as needed using 50 to 30amp dog bone. No issues so far.
I can physically remove the HW50 via pulling the fuse converter unit out. I added an additional piece of 50 amp wire between HW50 and converter bought like 3 feet so I have enough slack to pull converter out on kitchen floor and reach in to the HW50.
Had enough wire from the quick connect plug to get HW50 mounted without adding or changing the factory wire. Just had to reroute around all the wiring and furnace ducting in basement side. It was a rats nest but much better now.
YMMV
RoadrunnerII

[Kahoneys]

I went with the same unit that your looking at and when I cut my wires, I put right next my EMS 2 split bolt connectors so that if I need to remove my pregressive EMS I can unsrew the wire and connect them together with the connectors so my camper is useable while my EMS is getting repaired or replaced.


On another note I am one who camped for 2 decades with not using one and never had any issues so was very slow to buy/install one, but since then I am sooo happy that I did. I have had numerous times where it tripped and I had to wait 129 seconds for it to reset but had neighboring campers have damage to pc's, microwaves and 1 guy burnt up his refridgerator.