Propane regulator

[louiswp]

Hopefully this is a dumb question and can be answered quickly.
I have a dual propane tank set up on the front of my rv trailer. It has the 2 stage regulator with a lever on it to change tanks. It also has wires going into the top of the regulator. What are these electrical wires for?

This is an older camper 2000 that needs lots of work. Using only for hunting. No manuals for it.
just doesn't seem to have enough pressure, stove doesn't burn correctly flames appear low. and currently working on furnace so want my pressure correct before moving on.

[Jagiven]

Humm, wires not farmilar with any propane regulators with wires. Can you post an image?

Propane systems have a free flow prevention device in them. I suspect this is your problem. Turn off the tank, light the stove. Turn off the stove. Then very slowly open the propane tank valve. Light the stove. Fixed??? Sometimes when you open the propane valve, the surge of gas, trips the free flow device, thinking there is a major gas leak. It clamps down the gas flow, causing the issue you are describing.

Happy hunting

[craigav]

My information here is limited, hopefully though it will point you in the right direction, or someone else here may have more details.

Years back there were a couple of companies that made LP leak gas detectors (and co) that when a leak was detected, power would be removed from a solenoid that is located right on the low pressure side of the regulator. SAFE T ALERT is a company (the only one I know of) that still makes a Gas Leak detector with a solenoid. Some of the older units needed 12v to open the solenoid, some used 9v but only to close the solenoid.

I suspect that you have a gas shut off solenoid that needs power connected back to it, or remove it perhaps. I haven't seen these often, but I also haven't really checked to see. Having one of these seems like a good deal but if yours doesn't have power going to it, it is likely passing anyway.

I would take a closer look, share a picture or two if you like. If it is 12v then you should be able to test it with a 12v battery, if it is 9v, then maybe a 9v battery would open or close it (not sure). Seeing how I live dangerously often, I would probably see if I could remove the solenoid and take it out of the loop if possible, however I would make sure I have a working CO/LP gas detector. ~CA

[craigav]

Check out pg 3 of this manual. This is what I was trying to describe, but keep in mind yours could be a different model or brand... or voltage so you need to take a closer look at your LP detector model and the gas solenoid if you can see anything written on it.

Keep in mind, I could be totally wrong... lol However I have never seen wires go to the regulator exactly like you described but I have seen the solenoid connected to a regulator with wires going to it. ~Ca

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/v/vsp...742-manual.pdf

[norty1]

I would likely replace that old regulator first.

[dvspl]

Originally Posted by norty1

I would likely replace that old regulator first.

I'm with norty1. A quick look at Amazon shows new changeover regulators cost $30-$60. I don't take any risks with propane. I'd just replace it.

[louiswp]

This is the regulator. I will likely change it out anyhow. Cleaned the furnace up and getting ready to test that as well.

[JFlightRisk]

That looks like a Marshall Excelsior MEGR-253 regulator. Very common part Maybe the gizmo on the top just lifts off the top of yours.

[louiswp]

Took it off finally. On the back it's a model 250. Seen it was recalled years ago. Found options that are replacements supposedly. Camco 59005, 37207-30395, MEGR-298 06 295.
The top piece is some sort of plunger switch.
I will order a new part and go from there. Thanks to all for the input

[PipeFighter]

I know what it is since I had it on my old RV. It is an indicator for the Green/Red flag that is inside the clear plastic cover on the regulator. There should be a small rectangular box somewhere close to the tank location inside the RV. It will have an LED that glows Green or red. It takes a AA battery if I remember right. The way it works is like this: When the empty tank indicator on the regulator pops up to reveal the Red color it pushes up on a small plastic pin that is inserted inside the cap covering the regulator indicator. When that pin is pushed up it makes a contact and illuminates the Red LED on the inside monitor to let you know that the regulator has switched tanks and there is an empty one. It's early so I hope my writings are not too confusing. A quick web search did not show anything as it is quite old. BTW it can be removed with no issues. Hope this helps

[norty1]

I would bet that they don't use those anymore. I often wondered if that was something you could get if you could not remember to go outside and look.

So far my memory is not gone that far away.

[Falcon67]

Looks like a propane regulator that had an affair with an irrigation valve.