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Old 01-17-2011, 07:47 AM   #11
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I have a dumb question, Why can't we just silicone around the whole window rather than replacing all the putty?
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Old 01-17-2011, 10:45 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Crabman View Post
I have seen this issue come up before on another forum about windows with dry fit gaskets leaking soon after purchase. I find it a bit disappointing and disturbing that these RV manufacturers use a window seal that fails so soon. How many buyers expect or are prepared to pull all the windows and reseal them after only 2 yrs? How many unsuspecting owners without the benefit of this knowledge and these forums have leaking windows right now? We all expect general basic maintenance but having to dismantle your trailer after 2 yrs is a bit much IMO. I think they can do better then this....
I agree. My TT is only a year old and cant even begin to go over the list of things that were just not proper. I mean is it me or does it just feel like no one has any pride in their craft anymore. It seems that very few things are well built and engineered anymore. I enjoy the TT mods but 2 years to replace seals in windows so they dont leak is just unacceptable.
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Old 01-28-2011, 09:04 AM   #13
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I have a dumb question, Why can't we just silicone around the whole window rather than replacing all the putty?
As a temp solution, one can apply a solicone type material (like RV Flex) around the top and sides of the window frame. However, this is only a temp / short term solution.

IMO... It would be best to pull / remove each RV window (as shown in the U-Tube Video in the opening post) and apply soft puddy (or better butyl caulking tape material) on the "inside" of the window gap. Then, apply silicone type material on the top and sides. Thus, getting 2 layers of water protection. It would be like wearing a plastic sheet over a large fisherman's rain coat. Double the protection instead of a thin layer of plastic (like wearing a thin plastic coat on a rainy day). For a trailer that shifts and twists while being towed, it would be best to have 2 layers of water protection. Thus, I'd recommend "both" is applied. re: Under the windows lip and on the outer top/sides of the window's outer edge.

For me, I did 2 windows each weekend. 1 window on Saturday and 1 window on Sunday - while the kids slept in. At end of 6 weeks of camping, all windows were resealed. Doing this DIY project is easy. Just go "slow and steady". Works for me....

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Old 01-28-2011, 07:18 PM   #14
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Not to poke holes at this... (Being punny)...

But on the other sites Silicone is talked down greatly and the butyl tape is pushed as a single fix.

Like you I'd rather have 2 materials helping each other...

Like most silicones are rated for up to 50 years. But I've never seen butyl tape last that long... Then looking at automotive sealant like the urethane sealant for windshields is pretty tough stuff too. So why isn't a silicone based or urethane base sealant used more on windows and seams than butyl tape???

Try to learn and understand the designers mind...

Matter of fact since we are on this topic tomorrow in the light I shot some pics and see what you guys think...
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Old 01-28-2011, 11:00 PM   #15
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Surf entire video at:

The last 20 seconds, the guy is applying white silicone on the top and side of the window frame. His words is "finishing it off "....

Interesting video....

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Old 02-07-2011, 04:56 PM   #16
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I can handle many DIY projects as well and it looks like this will be one of them after the warranty is out. I have read about 3 instances where a 28 BHS, same model as mine, have had window leaks, and these were not old trailers.
are all of Jaycos windows dry fit? I have a 28BHS and am wondering if we should be worrying about this.....
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Old 02-07-2011, 05:19 PM   #17
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.

For any brand or model of trailer that has factory dry-fit windows (which seems to be the new method these days), I would simply remove the window and install butyl tape, and clear silicone on this top and side window outer lip edges. Especially when the trailer is past its factory warranty date. Simply re-seal 2 windows every weekend and in 6 weeks, all trailer windows are re-sealed. Or, do a "bltiz" and complete all windows back to back (within 2 days).

Removing the RV window and re-sealling them "the proper way" isn't that hard. Simply remove its inner screws, remove the window, remove the factory "dry fit" rubber seal, keep its plastic window spacers, apply the butyl tape on the inside of the window lip, then re-install the window. Very easy - even with a manual screw driver. See U-Tube video for a visual.

If it was my trailer and knowing what I know today (re: 3 windows leaking of the 11 on year 3 of my TT), I would simply re-seal the windows. Then, good for 10+ years. And, no worries about un-seen inner wall leaks either.

Note: If unable to do yourself, hire the task out. I'm sure there's a few DIY folks in your region who are willing to make some cash. For something like this, minimum wage type of job.

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Old 02-07-2011, 06:31 PM   #18
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are all of Jaycos windows dry fit? I have a 28BHS and am wondering if we should be worrying about this.....
I would not lose much sleep over it. Those that had problems with windows under warranty were taken care of. I would just keep an eye on them until the warranty is out. Then you could do like Spike said and gradually reseal the windows to your own satisfaction. It is also important to keep an eye on all the sealants on the roof, corner molding, lights compartment doors etc. One crack in a roof seal can lead to a substantial leak and damage. RV`s do a lot of flexing which along with environmental factors can break or erode seals.
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Old 02-07-2011, 07:41 PM   #19
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My family has a 2006 Jayco 29FBS. Unknown to me, this TT was built with "Dry Fit" windows. .
<snip>

So how does one know which trailers use "dry fit" windows?

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Old 02-08-2011, 02:38 PM   #20
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I had a 2001 Jayco 27footer and just traded it in on a new 31 RKS. Never had any problems with any leaks anywhere. DId have the roof resealed every couple of years but never did anything with the windows.
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