Refrigerator 15amp fuse-dead circuit

[Rustic Eagle]

Removed the 15 amp fuse (#9 slot location) in the breaker box designated for 'Refrigerator"...., refrigerator continued running

It appears there isn't any power running thru the 15 amp #9 fuse slot. I found that the Refrigerator is sharing the 20 amp Furnace fuse at the #3 slot location.

Should I leave "as is", or move the Refrigerator power to it's designated 15amp fuse location? I'm thinking the furnace may require a dedicated 20 amp fuse (?).

Did a little 'search' and found that some other RV manufactures also practice the Furnace/Refrigerator fuse sharing.

Bob

[Colorado]

It can’t hurt to separate the two except for the bit of work to actually do it. Personally, it be worth the work, neither are cheap to replace and if the combined fuse blows while you’re using the RV while you know how that ends….

[Stingray75]

Thinking I’d correct the issue if for any reason, so I wouldn’t wake at 2am wondering.

[JimD]

Fuses and circuit breakers are used to protect the wiring. You cannot install a larger fuse in a circuit that is designed for a smaller one. Doing so risks a fire hazard.

A 20 amp circuit requires 12 gauge wire and a 15 amp circuit requires 14 gauge wire. These are starting points as wire run length can also dictate larger wire sizes.

In your case did someone just piggy back the wire at the back of the fuse box? That is did they connect 2 wires to one fuse? If they moved the fridge wire from a 15 amp to a 20 amp fuse, that is a problem as the wire feeding the fridge is probably not large enough to be safe with a 20 amp fuse.

If you are not getting power across the fridge fuse location there could be a problem with the box connections. I assume you verified the fuse is indeed good. If you have 12 volts on one side you should get 12 volts on the other side as a fuse is basically a chunk of wire.

If there is an empty fuse spot in your panel you could relocate the wire feeding the fridge to an empty location and put in the proper 15 amp fuse. I added a new circuit in my panel and it was very easy.

I looked at the fusing in mine and the furnace and fridge are on separate 15 amp breakers. Strange that yours would require a 20 amp circuit for either.

In summary, match the fuse to the wire size. I personally would not leave them on the same fuse. I think my 12 cf fridge pulls just above 3 amps and the furnace may pull up to 9, depending on model.

[RedHorse1]

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

Removed the 15 amp fuse (#9 slot location) in the breaker box designated for 'Refrigerator"...., refrigerator continued running

It appears there isn't any power running thru the 15 amp #9 fuse slot. I found that the Refrigerator is sharing the 20 amp Furnace fuse at the #3 slot location.

Should I leave "as is", or move the Refrigerator power to it's designated 15amp fuse location? I'm thinking the furnace may require a dedicated 20 amp fuse (?).

Did a little 'search' and found that some other RV manufactures also practice the Furnace/Refrigerator fuse sharing.

Bob

If nothing quits working with #9 removed I’d leave it that way. I’d be curious if there’s any wiring connected and where it goes. If there is a wire(s) connected, is it close to a ground that would cause a dead short.
You could ask J for the wiring diagrams and maybe see what’s supposed to be connected there.

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by RedHorse1

snip.......You could ask J for the wiring diagrams and maybe see what’s supposed to be connected there.

Forgot I had the wiring schematics from Jayco...., and they do show both the refrigerator/furnace landing on the 20amp fuse #3 location. Guess I'll leave well enough alone.

Unlike the other fuse locations the associated red light doesn't come on #9 location when the fuse is removed, but #9 does in fact control the electric awning. I crossed off the "Refrigerator" designation and inked in "Awning".




Bob

[RedHorse1]

Awning, refrigerator: meh, what’s the diff?


Glad you got it sorted.

[Murff]

Murphy's Law working at it's best here!

Murff