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Old 07-14-2016, 02:42 PM   #1
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Stupid question in regards to Residential refrigerator/battery setups in a TT.

Ok, here is my stupid question for the day. Sorry for the length.

We have a 2017 Eagle ordered with the residential refrigerator/1000w inverter option. We will also be hooked up to shore/TV power almost exclusively so battery "requirements" really didn't concern me a whole lot prior to ordering. But then I got to thinking afterwards that in the event of a TV breakdown, power outage, etc. where shore/TV/generator power wouldn't be readily available, how long could the refrigerator operate on batteries alone? I have read a lot about this since we placed our order and now have a pretty good idea what will be needed to get an "acceptable" battery runtime, but wanted to get Jayco's input on this as well. So I talked with a Jayco sales rep.

Seems Jayco tested the residential refrigerator setup in my 2017 Eagle model at the factory using 2 -12v batteries (size/type not specified in the discussion), the refrigerator was "pre cooled" and stocked with cold/frozen foods before the runtime test started. The results were that the refrigerator was able to operate properly for approx. 16 hours but that Jayco was going to go with a more conservative 12 hours runtime for their "specs". He had no info on if that timeframe was at full or some percentage (50 percent?) of battery discharge nor could he give me specs on the batteries used other than they were 12v deep cycle. So as a customer, I would expect that our new trailer would come with a 2 battery setup of some kind since that is what Jayco tested with. From what I have read, that should be sufficient for our situation.

Fast forward to a conversation with our salesman a few weeks later about what BATTERIES (note the plural spelling) would be installed in our new trailer seeing we had the residential refrigerator option? I was told that they were only going to install 1 - 12v Interstate "RV" battery (again, no size/type) like they do with any other TT of that size, regardless of options. I found that very interesting to say the least and confusing at the same time.

If one 12v battery was sufficient, I would think that Jayco would test it with one, not two and base their numbers accordingly, but that does not seem to be the case. I would also think that Jayco would have at least some minimal expectation that their dealers are selling their products "as tested" to ensure some level of minimal performance but I guess not.

Stupid Question - Why would Jayco allow dealers to sell a product of theirs with a battery setup on a given RV build that was inconsistent with the setup tested by Jayco to produce their "numbers"?

I think I know the answer, but go ahead and beat me over the head with this dumb question. I probably deserve it.
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Old 07-14-2016, 02:47 PM   #2
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That's interesting, my 2015 PINNACLE as well as a friends came with 2. Ask to see what the MSRP sheet says.

When I inquired on how long the fridge would run on battery, JAYCO CS told me 14-16 hours as well.
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Old 07-14-2016, 03:04 PM   #3
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Thanks Grumpy, I will ask.


It has always been my understanding that trailers don't come from the manufacturer with batteries installed but is up to the dealership to install them and some charge for them and others don't (at least they don't Itemize them). During my conversation with the salesman, he said the battery I was getting was part of a "convenience pkg" that they include with all new trailers and that if I wanted a second battery, I would have to pay for it. So it sounds like battery costs are not part of the MSRP? Think I might pose this question to the Jayco rep as well.
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Old 07-14-2016, 03:55 PM   #4
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Good questions for Jayco. I can tell you that our friends purchased a Thor Tuscany with the residential refrig option, and their coach came with two 12v deep cycle batteries. They replaced them with $2500 worth of Lifeline deep cycle batteries (4 of them), and are still unhappy they bought the residential fridge option. Eventually, I see them dropping more money into a fridge what will operate on propane for dry camping. Our trips are a mix of full hookup campground to no-hookup dry camping for 2-5 days. Their fridge runs about 5-6 hours on the two original batteries, and somewhat longer on the newer Lifeline setup (probably 8-10 or more hours). At that point, however, they have to run the generator for 5 or 6 hours just to recharge batteries.
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Old 07-14-2016, 04:18 PM   #5
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and are still unhappy they bought the residential fridge option. Eventually, I see them dropping more money into a fridge what will operate on propane for dry camping.
A lot depends on what fridge was used. The SAMSUNG we have in the PINNACLE only draws 3.9 amps since it has the new style low draw compressor.
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Old 07-14-2016, 05:57 PM   #6
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A lot depends on what fridge was used. The SAMSUNG we have in the PINNACLE only draws 3.9 amps since it has the new style low draw compressor.
OH, for sure. Undoubtedly, there are at least several models used in various RVs, with widely varying current requirements. I am happy with the old school Norcold in my Seneca. I don't think I would want to manage dry camping with a residential fridge of any brand or type. And, of course, it works well on shore power. He's gonna have to keep top drawer batteries in that thing. Seems the 1000 watt Yamaha gen he bought because it's quiet will run the fridge, but he has to gas it up and leave it on all day while he's gone until it runs out of fuel. And he has to chain it to his rear wheel so it won't get pinched. I'll take the gas fridge with all its faults.
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Old 07-14-2016, 06:14 PM   #7
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We just bought a 2016 377RLBH and it came with the residential fridge. I had asked about run time because the dealer knows we travel and would be dry camping overnights on some trips. They said it would be fine overnight and would recharge during the travel from the truck power... NOT! We took or first trip to Virginia and on the way stopped overnight to sleep. A single group 24 deep cycle battery was all that we had from the dealer. The inverter kept beeping while we were sleeping so I kept waking up and running the truck (auto start option that would run for about 10 - 15 minutes and then auto shut off. That would work for a little while but I finally had to start the truck and let it run. We continued and stopped after 5 -6 hours on the road we stopped and noticed the fridge freezer was up to 42 degrees and the ice cream and other frozen food (it was packed) began to defrost. Called my dealer. I was advised to find an Intersate dealer and get a group 27 DC battery and install it so we would have more capacity. Took time to find one enroute and install it. Got us to Virginia,
Waiting for the dealer to swap out a group 24 battery for a new group 27 one so they match. Had another trip local and yesterday we left and returned home the fridge was on and we were off shore power for only 45 minutes when we got home the freezer was up to 27 degrees from zero... If we had been going somewhere and didn't stop for a couple three hours we'd be in the same state we were in Virginia... The inverter was showing an E05 error then 0L, so it was overloaded and wouldn't kick back on... I'm about to return the trailer and ask for a refund because we travel and this won't work for us... Anyone have any experiences like this and possible solution? We don't have a generator so running one to recharge the bateries or run the fridge isn't an option... Thanx
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Old 07-14-2016, 06:53 PM   #8
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Can't say what your problem is, but we had no issues keeping the fridge going while traveling all day. I actually did some rewiring and run our sat receiver (also have in motion sat antenna) so the DW can DVR a couple favorite shows while we're traveling. When we stop at a rest area for lunch inverter still shows battery voltage at 12.7 so truck is keeping things charged.

However FW did come with 2 batteries from dealer.
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Old 07-14-2016, 07:10 PM   #9
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We just bought a 2016 377RLBH and it came with the residential fridge. I had asked about run time because the dealer knows we travel and would be dry camping overnights on some trips. They said it would be fine overnight and would recharge during the travel from the truck power... NOT! We took or first trip to Virginia and on the way stopped overnight to sleep. A single group 24 deep cycle battery was all that we had from the dealer. The inverter kept beeping while we were sleeping so I kept waking up and running the truck (auto start option that would run for about 10 - 15 minutes and then auto shut off. That would work for a little while but I finally had to start the truck and let it run. We continued and stopped after 5 -6 hours on the road we stopped and noticed the fridge freezer was up to 42 degrees and the ice cream and other frozen food (it was packed) began to defrost. Called my dealer. I was advised to find an Intersate dealer and get a group 27 DC battery and install it so we would have more capacity. Took time to find one enroute and install it. Got us to Virginia,
Waiting for the dealer to swap out a group 24 battery for a new group 27 one so they match. Had another trip local and yesterday we left and returned home the fridge was on and we were off shore power for only 45 minutes when we got home the freezer was up to 27 degrees from zero... If we had been going somewhere and didn't stop for a couple three hours we'd be in the same state we were in Virginia... The inverter was showing an E05 error then 0L, so it was overloaded and wouldn't kick back on... I'm about to return the trailer and ask for a refund because we travel and this won't work for us... Anyone have any experiences like this and possible solution? We don't have a generator so running one to recharge the bateries or run the fridge isn't an option... Thanx
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Old 07-14-2016, 07:11 PM   #10
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for emergency situations, have you considered carrying a portable 12v fridge, or cooler? If your going to be on shore power all the time, the benefits of a residential fridge are tough to beat. Im at a seasonal site where my residential fridge runs 24/7 from May-October. I always have my Coleman 120 qt cooler filled with ice outside for drinks. I used to have to keep food it in as well when I had my old trailer with rv fridge because we couldn't fit all the food in the fridge. If I run into a situation where we lose power (hasn't happened yet) for an extended period of time, just transfer perishables to the cooler until power is restored. When we head home during the week, we take home the perishables incase of a mid week power outage when we're not there.
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Old 07-14-2016, 08:05 PM   #11
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We need a solution for travel. We went to Florida last year, Virginia and Maryland this year. We were planning to go to Maine / NH, Lake George and Myrtle Beach. So lots of time on the road without shore power. How many deep cycle batteries do we need? I wish we had gotten the elec/Gas that we wanted but this one was on order my the dealership and they said it would do the overnights without a problem. Has not been so!
I just checked my fridge power consumption and its 978 watts in normal mode and we only have a 1000 watt inverter that seems to kick into overload mode often. Poor planning on Jayco's part and not accurate info from our dealer...
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Old 07-18-2016, 01:47 PM   #12
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I emailed Jayco to try and get more info in regards to their testing of the residential refrigerators, what size batteries they used, etc. I also asked for specs on the fridge itself that will be coming in our trailer as well as the size of the battery tray itself so I can try to plan ahead.

With their current build estimates, we are going to be in an uncomfortable situation if things like this go sideways before our planned departure for Florida. If I have to load on multiple batteries (more than 2) to try and keep the fridge cool during a Wal-Mart stopover, I may have to upgrade my WD hitch and possibly the receiver on my truck!

I'll post what I find out, but I am even more apprehensive about this now than I was before!
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Old 07-18-2016, 06:22 PM   #13
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Our 2016 North Point came with a residential refrigerator and 4 12v batteries. On batteries alone, power was down 2/3 after 18 hours. 6v batteries would be an improvement. I finally bit the bullet and installed solar panels. On them i went for 6 days with no loss of battery power. Mind you this was only powering the fridge, nothing else. This was an expensive alternative, but worth it to me for peace of mind.

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Old 07-19-2016, 04:21 AM   #14
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A lot depends on what fridge was used. The SAMSUNG we have in the PINNACLE only draws 3.9 amps since it has the new style low draw compressor.
At this point, I am not sure what make/model fridge will be in our 330RSTS TT. I looked at the 360 on the Jayco website as well as found one dealer that has a 330RSTS listed with pictures. They both show a stainless, side by side with an ice/water dispenser in the door. There is also a badge in the upper right corner of the fridge door.

Given that limited info, as well as the general appearance, it looks like it is a Frigidaire.
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Old 07-19-2016, 04:23 AM   #15
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We don't have a generator so running one to recharge the bateries or run the fridge isn't an option... Thanx
I do have a pair of Honda's. Not what I wanted to have to do but I may have to start carrying at least one of them with me at all times.
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Old 07-19-2016, 04:32 AM   #16
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for emergency situations, have you considered carrying a portable 12v fridge, or cooler?
One of the reasons she wanted the residential refrigerator was to get rid of our cooler that we used for drinks and a few other things during our longer stays. Really don't want to have to haul that beast around "just in case". but I agree it is an option as well.
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Old 07-19-2016, 04:38 AM   #17
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we had no issues keeping the fridge going while traveling all day. When we stop at a rest area for lunch inverter still shows battery voltage at 12.7 so truck is keeping things charged.

However FW did come with 2 batteries from dealer.
Whatever fridge we end up with, I better NOT have any issues with it running while connected to the TV or that will be a show stopper right there. That was one of the main selling points, and my biggest point of contention about getting the residential refrigerator over the 12 cu ft gas/electric, was would it at least stay running while going down the road and I was assured that it would. And in the event of an emergency, I could at the very least, keep the truck running instead of having to haul out one of my Honda's.
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Old 07-19-2016, 05:05 AM   #18
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Our 2016 North Point came with a residential refrigerator and 4 12v batteries. On batteries alone, power was down 2/3 after 18 hours. 6v batteries would be an improvement. I finally bit the bullet and installed solar panels. On them i went for 6 days with no loss of battery power. Mind you this was only powering the fridge, nothing else. This was an expensive alternative, but worth it to me for peace of mind.

Jim
I don't think our 2017 Eagle 330RSTS TT would be able to accommodate 4 batteries, at least without some modifications to the battery tray and whether that even could be done is questionable. Until I can actually see on in person to determine how much space there actually is, or at least get some specs from Jayco, it is impossible to say.

As for solar, that is on my wish list but I don't see that happening this year unless it becomes our only alternative to keep things running and that would do nothing to help us with overnighters at wal-mart or a truck stop. In those instances, I can envision spending a long cold night keeping the truck or the generator in the back of the truck running while she snoozes away!

So if I can get a 2 battery setup that will keep it running for say 6-8 hours, then I could work with that. I also prefer not to go 6v in a two battery setup in the event one failed.
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Old 07-19-2016, 10:04 AM   #19
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....... I also prefer not to go 6v in a two battery setup in the event one failed.
Is that really the case?

If a 12V battery failed, wouldn't it suck the second 12V battery dry trying to equalize the two, resulting in the same problem?
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Old 07-19-2016, 11:39 AM   #20
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Is that really the case?

If a 12V battery failed, wouldn't it suck the second 12V battery dry trying to equalize the two, resulting in the same problem?
I have considered that as well but whether that would be the case or not, I cannot say. Maybe someone else that knows more about this than I can speak to that.

But on the other hand, if one 12v failed, even if it drained the other initially, the remaining good one could still be recharged and I would have something until I could get a replacement. If I went with 2 - 6v batteries and one failed, I would have nothing until I was able to get a replacement.

I am not completely against going 6v, but if I can get an acceptable runtime from 2 - 12v batteries, that would be my preference.
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