Surge Protection

[bertscampers]

I am trying to figure out what exactly is needed for surge protection.

I found this on sale locally and wonder if it is good enough.
http://www.rvstuffusa.com/surgeprotectorbytrc.html

Thanks for all of the help.

[Spike99]

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As a suggestion, do compare this "on sale" 44740 model to the many other Surge Protection models within: http://www.surgeguard.com/pdfs/Comp-Charts_12-07.pdf

If your looking at the 44740 (page 1 - most left device), you'll notice this item does very little. And, its Surge Supression is only 500 as well. To me, its a glorified Surge Bar with GFI button (that many connect to the back of their home TV sets). For Surge Supression (especially on main line), I remember someone stating "the higher the joules number, the better". And, under 1,000 isn't worth buying. Especially for a main line. With this in mind, I would focus on 10086 or the more feature 34730 model. For more details, see page 1 within: http://www.surgeguard.com/pdfs/Comp-Charts_12-07.pdf

One's price point? When "repairing or upgrading better then factory", I always take long term RV/TT ownership into account as well. If you plan to keep your HTT for 6 years, then take the item's purchase cost and divide by 6. Thus, a possible $300 (item device + taxes) Surge Protection device only costs 300/6 = $50 / year. Or, even less if you plan to keep your HTT 8 more years. For "minimum features" with 1,000+ joules protection, I'd get a minimum 10086 (or simular from a different company). If looking for true RV Surge protection with majority of features for typical RV situations, do investigate the portable 34730 model.

Hope this helps in your research....

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[bertscampers]

Thanks Spike that does help lots. I doubted that it was any good. If you buy cheap it usually is cheap.

Cheers

[wiscampsin]

Here's a link to one you should consider.
http://tweetys.com/electricalmanagem...able30amp.aspx

They make a hard wired version too.
http://tweetys.com/electrical-manage...rdwire-30.aspx

[David472]

As Spike99 says, the higher the joules rating the better. Joules is the term for watt-seconds. For example, 1,000 joules would be 1,000 watts for 1 second, or 2,000 watts for 0.5 seconds, or any multiply combination to give 1,000 etc. This is a measure of how much spike energy the protector can absorb before it fails. So, more is better, and 1,000 joules would be the very minimum you would want. A common source of spikes, is from electric motors switching on or off.

The over-voltage, under-voltage conditions are a separate thing to consider. The more likely condition would be under-voltage on a hot summer day, when everyone is running their air conditioning. At home here in the summer, I have seen as low as 110 volts when normal is about 122 volts (not very often though). Yes, I monitor that. Electric motors can be burned out, if they are operated at less than 100 volts, and is why the protectors kick in at 109 volts. Your air conditioner is in that vulnerable category.

Hope this helps you with your decision.

[Double Eagle]

I use these two devices and both seem to work well; the surge guard has surge protection, over and under voltage protection, and checks for miswired pedistals. the line volt meter allows me to visually monitor the voltage. I camped in a park this weekend and my voltage got down to 104 volts. if the voltage gets down to 102 volts the surge guard will trip and shut off power to protect appliances from low volt condition.

http://www.rvpartscountry.com/Portab...0A_p_5982.html

http://www.dyersonline.com/prime-pro...ty-tester.html

I am not suggesting buying these products at these sites just merely showing pictures and information on what I use; they can be found cheaper at other sites.

[bertscampers]

Thanks everyone. For those living in Canada, where is a good place to buy the surge protector. I think I will purchase the one that attaches at the pedestal since hard wiring into the trailer may be a warranty issue.

Once again thanks for the help.

[Spike99]

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To purchase an RV Surge Protector (portable model), within Ontario Canada:
- Visit a few local RV dealers. Many of them will "special order" it for you.
- www.ebay.ca
- http://toronto.kijiji.ca/ (change Toronto to your city location).

If buying from ebay or RV Dealer, remember to add additional 13% taxes.

If wondering, I recently bought a 12V troller motor for my Canoe via kijiji surfing. The seller only used it 4 times and due to illness, he couldn't boat anymore. Luckily, I was vacationing in his town (which is 8 hours from my location) and stopped into his house. Got the new unit for 1/2 retail selling cost. And, saved taxes as well. Thus, it does save to "surf around" kijiji - even if item is within a different city.

Do "search around" because some places charge 2 to 4 times more - compared to others. Especially the RV dealers. Know your prices before buying....

Also.... If visiting or camping in the north States, I hear Camping World sells the portable units for approx $240. Camping Word members get a discount as well. And being part of your HTT (not seen within your HTT's storage compartment), I'm sure there's no duty / no processing fee (when coming back into Canada).

I agree with your Portable device wants as well. If it acts up or you need of a different trailer, simply disconnect it. Then, re-connect or transfer to a different (future) trailer.... Much more portable compared to a `hard wire`model....

Hope these ideas help...

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[Seann45]

Buying it in Canada forget it.. we get so over charged for things and now that our dollar is worth more than the us greenback order it up from the states just have them mail it as UPS charges way too much for brokerage.