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Old 05-20-2013, 09:48 AM   #1
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Toilet Bleeding down (Won't Hold Water)

Hi Gang,

Our 2012 308 RETS which sits on a permanent site is having toilet issues. The bowl won't hold water! I'll fill it up and in about 30 minutes to an hour she's empty. I cleaned the Ball Valve thinking maybe a piece of paper is the culprit and she still won't hold water.

It's still under warranty, but I have no desire pulling the TT off the site if it's a simple fix. Plus, I'd push for the dealer to come to me. Any thoughts or suggestions? As always, thanks for everyones input.
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Old 05-20-2013, 11:32 AM   #2
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Bad flush valve. I would think the dealer should come to you for the repair expecially if they were aware it was going on a perm site. If not, call Jayco and have them send a certified mobile RV repair company since your local dealer cant/wont come out.
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Old 05-21-2013, 09:39 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exjay1 View Post
Bad flush valve. I would think the dealer should come to you for the repair expecially if they were aware it was going on a perm site. If not, call Jayco and have them send a certified mobile RV repair company since your local dealer cant/wont come out.
I had a feeling that the Ball Valve may be the issue. I'll give my dealer a call to see what kind of a response I get.

Thanks..
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:14 PM   #4
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Jayco should reimburse the dealer for the parts and time but you may have to pay for travel time for the repairman.
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Old 05-23-2013, 07:32 AM   #5
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^ true.
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Old 05-24-2013, 02:29 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by exjay1 View Post
Bad flush valve. I would think the dealer should come to you for the repair expecially if they were aware it was going on a perm site. If not, call Jayco and have them send a certified mobile RV repair company since your local dealer cant/wont come out.
Okay Gang. Spoke with my dealer and yes it sounds like a Ball Valve which is covered under warranty. However, I would have to pay for the service call in order for them to come to my Seasonal Site. I can either pull the toiler, take it to them and they'll fix it or they'll give me the parts to fix it myself.

The Big Question - How hard is it to change the Ball Valve? I'm thinking the Toiler needs pulled from the floor and then replace the Ball Valve! I'm fairly competent and should be able to do the repair myself, just not sure if any worries before I jump into this project.
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Old 05-24-2013, 02:42 PM   #7
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Not sure what the ball valve is that you reference but here" instructions on RV toilet repair.

How To Repair An RV Toilet

To repair your RV toilet, follow these steps:


The first step is to turn off the water pressure — either by turning off the “City Water” valve or turning off the on switch for the on-board water pump.

◾Flush the toilet to bleed off any remaining water pressure and to empty all water out of the toilet bowl.

The toilet will have to be removed in order to work on it, as repairs are made from the rear or bottom side.


Remove the 2 bolts (one on each side) that secure the toilet to the floor. You’ll then be able to lift the toilet away from the wall and access the water connection at the back side of the toilet. With the water line disconnected, you can then remove the toilet to a nearby work bench or table.


You might want to lay a cloth rag across the hole to help keep odors at bay, and to prevent anything from falling into the black water tank.


Unlike house toilets, RVs don’t use a wax ring to seal the toilet to the drain pipe. Instead, you will have a rubber ring that will act as the seal.


Depending on what portion of the toilet your repairs are concerned with, refer to the parts diagram that comes with the repair kit for disassembly instructions. Be sure when you order parts for the specific brand and model number of your RV toilet.


If you’re repairing the blade seals, before you reinstall the toilet in the RV, pour a quart of water into the toilet to make sure the new seals will hold water.


If you’re replacing the water valve on the back of the toilet, once you have reinstalled the water line, pressurize the water system to make sure the valve doesn’t leak. If it passes this test, then go ahead and bolt it back down to the floor.


It’s recommended that you install a new rubber seal between the toilet and the floor flange when you reinstall the toilet.

Good luck,

Ron

Quote:
Originally Posted by 308rets View Post
Okay Gang. Spoke with my dealer and yes it sounds like a Ball Valve which is covered under warranty. However, I would have to pay for the service call in order for them to come to my Seasonal Site. I can either pull the toiler, take it to them and they'll fix it or they'll give me the parts to fix it myself.

The Big Question - How hard is it to change the Ball Valve? I'm thinking the Toiler needs pulled from the floor and then replace the Ball Valve! I'm fairly competent and should be able to do the repair myself, just not sure if any worries before I jump into this project.
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Old 05-24-2013, 02:55 PM   #8
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Hi John & Janine,

should you do this yourself, make sure that the dealer also supplies any new seals, sealant etc. that you will need to replace in addition to the actual damaged part. You may have to return these to the dealer for proof of warranty, also let Jayco know about you doing the job yourself, because the dealer is compensated for the labour to do this repair.

Regards,

Ron

Quote:
Originally Posted by 308rets View Post
Okay Gang. Spoke with my dealer and yes it sounds like a Ball Valve which is covered under warranty. However, I would have to pay for the service call in order for them to come to my Seasonal Site. I can either pull the toiler, take it to them and they'll fix it or they'll give me the parts to fix it myself.

The Big Question - How hard is it to change the Ball Valve? I'm thinking the Toiler needs pulled from the floor and then replace the Ball Valve! I'm fairly competent and should be able to do the repair myself, just not sure if any worries before I jump into this project.
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