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Old 04-22-2016, 08:51 AM   #11
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ok I am still researching, from the given link above in Subaru's post I found this one

PowerMax PM4B-100 (100 Amp 4-Stage Converter/Charger)

it's a 100amps, and uses 14.6v in boost mode, best PD unit I could find is 14.4v. then I read this from another forum
"that looks like a low end model (not a bad price). I would assume a 100amp charger only provides about 1200watts of AC power. Hardly enough to run a single heater, or a single cooktop, maybe just house lighting and laptops. If you really want to boondock, I would spend some money on a good 2500-4k watt inverter system like Outback or Victron. It will cost you 2k (plus batteries) but you will not have to worry about replacing equipment in the middle of the desert and for the most part you will have support from the manufacturer.

I have a low end (500$) sterling 2500w model. It simply charges batteries, inverts and has pass through for when I'm hooked up to the pole or genny running. None of the super duper features but we don't run much more than lights and computers when we boondock and run the genny for cooking breakfast and charging and the gas grill cooks dinnner. Our battery bank is enemic right now (about 200 amp hours) and we are hoping to bump up to something a little better in the future.

Our inverter has a desulfation cycle as well. You just change the dial to desulfate and it runs. There are a bunch of details in the manual as to what it does and for how long but I haven't used it yet. Our inverter was the nicer inverter for the low end models and we needed something quick and easy and so far I've been happy with it."

so I'm wondering is the unit i linked an add on to my system or a replacement to one I have? the quote I posted confused me abit
This quote that you refer to is mostly talking about an inverter. An inverter and a converter are two different things.

Inverter takes DC current from your battery bank and outputs 110v AC current.

Converter takes 110v AC and outputs DC current to charge your battery.

An inverter/charger will do both.

And I agree with the above that a 100amp converter is probably overkill as your batteries won't ever accept 100amps unless you have a huge battery bank. Something in the 40-60amp range would be fine I would imagine.

I can't really recommend a converter as I have not researched them much.

If you need an inverter as well then a good inverter/charger would be a good way to go. Pricey though. Xantrex comes to mind.

Good luck. Lots of options out there.
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Old 04-22-2016, 09:33 AM   #12
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Here is one that will do 14.8 volts.
PD 9245C-14.8 45 Amp RV Converter/Charger

I just re-read your original post and realized you are using a single 12 volt battery. This is probably not a true deep cycle battery. You will need to check the model and manufacturer of the battery and see if you can find the charging specs for that specific battery. They aren't all 14.8. That is just what Trojan recommends and is often quoted as they are a common battery. Interstate lists a slightly higher voltage and the Rolls-Surrette batteries I use state 14.7 volts.

One of these with the optional temperature sensor would be fantastic

Truecharge Battery Charger | Truecharge2 20A, 40A, 60A | Xantrex

This is a good read too if you have the time...
https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/...ging-puzzle-2/

Have you thought about solar at all?

Just noticed you are in Coquitlam. I used to live in Burnaby and went to SFU.
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Old 04-22-2016, 09:59 AM   #13
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SmokerBill,

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snip......For instance, when leaving the RV converter attached to the batteries when the stand-alone charger is hooked up and turned on, the RV converter would sense higher voltage/amperage available to the batteries, not "knowing" it's sensing the charger output........
I assume your example is based on the generator powering both the converter and stand-along charger simultaneously.

I use a B&D 40/20/10 Smart Charger (VEC1093DBD) to charge my battery bank, but I don't have the generator connected to my TT's 30amp service when using the stand-alone charger. The B&D charger will replenish my batteries faster then my TT converter alone.

Just curious, is the converter capable of sensing higher voltage/amperage available to the batteries when the generator is supplying power "only" to the stand-alone charger (converter not under 110v power)??

Bob
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Old 04-22-2016, 04:10 PM   #14
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Subaru I used to live at the bottom of Royal Oak hill when I went to bcit. most of my info comes from that article actually, will have to read it again of course. I have been thinking of solar as part of my eventual set up, but I see canadian tire is selling their 40w panel for $95 right now. so I am thinking of going down and grabbing two and a connector to hook them both up.

the battery is from Edmonds a local supplier, I called their burnaby outlet just now and he told me my battery was 80 ah, he thought 14.8v would be fine.

my mechanic friend is going to ask his source about a battery for me, of course costco is always tempting because of the return policy. I think for now I will go with the solar panels I mentioned and the biggest battery I can fit(availability permitting). I will measure my space to see if a 27 would fit, I would think it will as it is not that much larger. I will put my current battery (fully charged) in a vented weatherproof box and take it with us, and when setting up I will hook up the panels and the extra battery. but that will probably be in the winter only, in the summer I'll take the battery with us as back up but won't hook it up. if we're not happy with it, I will think about further steps.

I am also still thinking about the monitor, I will read through the install guide and see if I want to take it on.
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Old 05-01-2016, 01:16 PM   #15
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an update.

I have been busy with other stuff, but I have been picking away at this when I could. I don't think my house charging system works very well, even if it was working perfectly it would assist in the deterioration of the battery and not the maintenance of it. it uses 13.6v bulk charge and steps down when it reaches it's 100% voltage. I can't find what voltages PD uses for their state of charge. Trojan says 12.73v is 100% charged, when most charges use 12.6v as a 100%. And as Subaru pointed out before, Trojan wants 14.8v bulk charge until 90%. then step down to 14.7v and incrementally down to 14.1v at 100% before dropping into 13.5v float mode.

from my research so far is that there is no charger that does this other than manually adjustable ones. the PD9245c-14.8 that you linked Subaru may be the best hope, although I can find no spec on the 14.8 version of this charger. all info I have seen was at 14.4 bulk charge across the line. I have "asked Randy" about my situation as well, and await his thoughts.

the portable charger noco genius series has a cold/agm mode, which uses 14.8v. I have emailed them some questions to learn more about the steps in that mode.

the reason why Trojan has my attention is because the Trojan scs225 or t 1275 are the highest capacity batteries that will fit my space (130ah 150ah). interstate states a 14.4v bulk charge, I called the local office and he confirmed that their latest releases stated that. the highest capacity I can find in an interstate that will fit is 85ah. that is a considerable drop when only using 50%. 42.5ah vs 65-75ah. but I don't want to buy trojan unless I know I can find a charging system to maximize their value.

I have not yet found the adjustable charger models Bob seems to reference, but he is a solar set up. of course I am new to all this and have not had much time to dig. it does seem difficult to get data on chargers and batteries. I know I am probably over thinking it, but that's me and I have to live with me.

also, I did pick up two 40w panels that I have joined and seem to working nicely. they are portable style, but sitting on the roof.
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Old 05-02-2016, 02:35 PM   #16
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If you are adding solar I wouldn't worry so much about the converter. Get a decent solar charge controller that is adjustable. If you upgrade your converter to a better quality one than you have currently and use that to get you to 90% state of charge the solar will do the rest.

In this case I would get the SC2030 and the TM2030. The TM 2030 will keep track of Ah in and out and will keep your battery full rather than relying on voltage measurements to determine battery level.

A converter that you can manually override the charge mode may be useful too. "Charge Wizard" does this I think????

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Old 05-02-2016, 04:33 PM   #17
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also, I did pick up two 40w panels that I have joined and seem to working nicely. they are portable style, but sitting on the roof.
What are the electrical specifications on the 40 watt solar panels/Solar charge controller? Mfr name?

Don
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Old 05-02-2016, 11:47 PM   #18
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Subaru the solar are just the portable hook up to the battery when parked kind. I was thinking of the tm 2030 rv model monitor, with the 100a shunt? Longer term I will look at a permanent solar set up. I will follow handy bobs blogs on that,as you say those controllers do seem adjustable. for now I am waiting to hear back from a few places.

I have yet to find a charging system where it said it was adjustable, but I should call the companies direct to find out more. but your right the solar do top up the batteries well (given the lumens of course).

Mustang this is the panels and controllers
Click image for larger version

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Coleman 40W Folding Solar Panel | Canadian Tire

they were $95 on sale, but costco.ca has the 80w single panel set up for $199 regular price.

my house battery read 13.1v after solar controller stopped charging, that was after completely disconnecting the battery and testing it the next day. seems a little high, this is battery was new aug 2015. I will run a desulfation cycle on it soon. it charged the chassis battery to 12.8v.

I'm in no rush, and have alot to learn. the monitor would be a smart first step, so once I figure out the shunt choice I order one.
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