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Old 04-14-2011, 09:12 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by bertscampers View Post
I am really trying to follow these posts but am struggling. I am picking up my RV in a week. I am not sure what I need to get to protect my trailer. Surge guard or surge protector. If I get nothing what then? I am just trying to understand. Thanks for all the help.
I know what you mean. re: Too much details is more confusing then staying high-level.

For my TT setup (and if getting a new trailer next week as well), I would:

A - Purchase 30A RV voltage Monitor / Management system. Progressive has an affordable system at: http://www.dyersonline.com/progressi...nt-system.html

Note: I love "hard wire" devices because once installed, they are a "leave it and read it" usage device. And, lower risk of someone illegally removing it. Especially when installed inside the TT.

If wondering, this device monitors "too low" and "too high" of electrical current. If current is outside normal range, it then "switches off" the main power. And, keeps the switch off - until the AC unit has time to decompress itself. And, this device has "some" built in MOV surge protection as well. And, it has a nice display. Which, allows the person to easily read its numbers.

B - Where possible (re: on LCD TV outlet, rear fridge outlet, Coffee Pot outlet, your DVD/CD/Media Player outlet), I'd install a low cost "outlet" MOV surge protection device. If a power spike snuck past the Main Panel device, the "outlet" level device might lower the spike. For example: http://sales.buysmrt.com/Monster+Cab...rge+Suppressor

Note: Do shop around. I've seen this same device for as low as $15. Buy a few each year and in 3 years, all TT "electronic" sensitive outlets are protected.

If wondering, Main Panel and wall Outlet surge protection is called a 2 tier system. Double layers of protection. Some RV devices cannot have a 2nd tier (re: Ceiling mount AC unit, behind the walls Microwave, electric Hot Water tank, outside 110/120V outlet, bathroom GFCI outlet) but installing a 2nd tier surge protection "were possible" is a good idea.

If one's Progressive Monitor/ Management system is always "cutting off / switching off" the main power because the main power line is consistantly too low (re: under 103V), then install a Voltage Regulator. Many Voltage Regulator units boost (increase) main power. For example, increase from 102V to perhaps 109V (which stops the Progressive Management device from switching OFF - because its main power is now above 103V).

If wondering, I may have to install a future Voltage Regulator at my seasonal camp site. When all TT AC units "on the same electrical grid" are ON, my TT's volts drops down to 101-103 range. And, my Surge Guard device sometimes cuts off its main power. I may have to install a voltage regulator to "boost" power above its current lower 103 Volt limit. Only time will tell...

Hope this helps in your research....

.
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Old 04-14-2011, 09:23 PM   #32
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I am really trying to follow these posts but am struggling. I am picking up my RV in a week. I am not sure what I need to get to protect my trailer. Surge guard or surge protector. If I get nothing what then? I am just trying to understand.
Most of us do not use any device to test the AC coming into our RV. I didn't until recently. The deal is that under or over voltage on the AC supply can hurt your trailer. Bad wiring at the pedestal can hurt your trailer and maybe you. Surges - that is very short over voltages - can hurt your electronic devices in your trailer, like your converter, the refrigerator controls, etc.

For the bad wiring at the pedestal, you can buy a simple outlet tester at a home supply store. It checks for bad grounds, and backwards wired hot and neutral supply.

For surges, you can't do much cheaply.

For under and over voltage supply, you could buy an AC voltmeter and check the supply- of course, that only tells you it's condition then, and not in the afternoon at 90 degrees when everybody has their AC cranked up.

You could buy one of these or similar http://www.progressiveindustries.net/ssp_30.htm

You could do nothing special. That's what I did for 10 years, and nothing happened. I did use a polarity tester when I first hook up.
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Old 04-14-2011, 09:27 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by bertscampers View Post
If I get nothing what then? I am just trying to understand.

Thanks for all the help.
The honest answer is probably nothing. I am just guessing, but I would say 95% of trailers do not have protection. I have a Progressive Industries EMS, but didnt have one for a while. I just like the piece of mind it gives me. Before that, I checked the pedestal before I plugged in and make sure it was the correct voltage and wired properly - and I also had a volt meter in the camper so I could keep an eye if it dropped too low when everyone had AC turned on.

I personally think of it more as insurance - you just have to choose if you want to live without it or not but I dont think you should worry if you go out the door without it.
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Old 04-16-2011, 07:18 AM   #34
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Bottom line: Not listed are solutions for other anomalies such as power factor, frequency variation, harmonics, neutral failures, rapid power cycling, etc. For RV shore power, Surge Guard addresses a most common problem. A surge protector at the pedestal addresses a different and rare anomaly that is also so catastrophic. Two completely different solutions for two completely different problems.
I agree totally.
There is a small chance of a surge protector going up in smoke, or a small chance of it going to a short circuit. Thus, pedistal location is best place for a surge protector.
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Old 04-16-2011, 07:23 AM   #35
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The honest answer is probably nothing. I am just guessing, but I would say 95% of trailers do not have protection. I have a Progressive Industries EMS, but didnt have one for a while. I just like the piece of mind it gives me. Before that, I checked the pedestal before I plugged in and make sure it was the correct voltage and wired properly - and I also had a volt meter in the camper so I could keep an eye if it dropped too low when everyone had AC turned on.

I personally think of it more as insurance - you just have to choose if you want to live without it or not but I dont think you should worry if you go out the door without it.
Yes, the chances of having problems when you use nothing, is very low. You would probably win the lottery first.
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Old 04-16-2011, 09:21 AM   #36
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Thanks for all the advice. My train of thought was if it was a serious issue wouldn't the trailer companies have them installed? Thanks once again.

Cheers
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Old 04-16-2011, 09:22 AM   #37
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Generac makes an expensive ac volt meter (on line 20.00+-)it plugs in and has an outlet on the face so you don't loose the outlet. I saw it work when I pluged in my son's truck block heater and the voltage went from 120v to 115v due to voltage drop(200' distance form the elect panel to the truck and 16ga wire in the cord)besides the numerical scale it also has a color change ie green, yellow & red to alert you of low voltage.
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Old 04-16-2011, 09:23 AM   #38
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Sorry, I meant to say INexpensive
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Old 04-16-2011, 11:26 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by 19H F250 View Post
Generac makes an in-expensive ac volt meter (on line 20.00+-)it plugs in and has an outlet on the face so you don't loose the outlet. I saw it work when I pluged in my son's truck block heater and the voltage went from 120v to 115v due to voltage drop(200' distance form the elect panel to the truck and 16ga wire in the cord)besides the numerical scale it also has a color change ie green, yellow & red to alert you of low voltage.
Yes, and here is another low cost product to monitor for "brown-out" conditions, if you like to do that.

http://www.mfjenterprises.com/Produc...uctid=MFJ-850B
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Old 04-16-2011, 11:31 AM   #40
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Yes, and here is another low cost product to monitor for "brown-out" conditions, if you like to do that.

http://www.mfjenterprises.com/Produc...uctid=MFJ-850B
Now that one I have!
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