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Old 04-03-2017, 06:21 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by JPBeck View Post
I lag bolted them to the joists then put a strip of Eternabond tape over the bracket and bolt. Works well on my roof.
With no sealant ?? What will prevent any water from getting in between the bracket and the roof from the backside? This is not the way to do it, and should have been done with only sealant. That tape is only used to patch damage, and it also has to have it's edges sealed.
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Old 04-03-2017, 07:07 PM   #22
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LOL-- The second you typed Patch -- you lost all credibility. Tell that to the thousands of people that use it. LOL you need to check your facts before you proclaim your righteousness, and I did seal the back side. It may not be the way you did yours-- which may or may not have happened... but it does work.
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Old 04-03-2017, 09:21 PM   #23
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No offence JP, but your methods wouldn't last a winter in areas with freezing temps
Water would get in there and freeze. Lift a little..more water..freeze. Lifted a little.
I don't see what's stopping water from getting in the backside.
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Old 04-03-2017, 11:52 PM   #24
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My trailer is 10 years old-- looks new-- no leaks--NOT ONE! NOT one once of water damage! I can just about guarantee it's got more mileage on it then 95% of the members here. It's been across the country and back 10 times. So I must be doing something right...

These people come on here are blast away at proven methods-- and no one says anything because they are afraid of being trolled or something. Well I'm not-- Proof is in the pudding.

I've been a member here since the beginning, I've posted most my all my trips on here, hundreds of pictures, but I'll gladly walk away from this argument. Good Luck!
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Old 04-05-2017, 01:54 PM   #25
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Eternabond is awesome stuff. On my camper Jayco used it to seal my slideout along the top edge where they bolted in the 'front' of the slide (the part of the slide you see from outside when it is retracted) to the box of the slide-out. I would use it in a heart beat in a situation like that, there is no need to seal the edges of the tape *IF* they are flush with the surface the tape is being bonded to.

The problem with that picture is the back of that bracket has *zero* coverage from water intrusion. The Eternabond isn't touching it.. you have bare metal against your roof right there. It's just a matter of gravity and physics. Water *is* going to get in there. If you sell off your camper in 2 years, it will be someone elses problem, but still not mine do what you think is best.

A lot of us have decades of experience in these things which is offered in the 'take it or leave it' spirit. You get what you paid for with all of our advise

IF it was my camper, I would not have the back of that bracket unsealed like it is. A bead of dicor along that back edge where the metal bracket has no coverage at all - and the job is done properly along that edge. Again, not our problem, just an observation. Other than that detail, the tape looks fine, I wouldn't worry at all about the other edges that are obviously well dealt with already. Some might put dicor on those other edges too, but I'd consider that totally optional. Anyway, we're all friends here so do what you will with what has been offered up as friendly suggestions. If it was my friends camper, I'd probably fix it on his behalf and not even tell him about it... we tend to all get a little stubborn at times.
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Old 04-05-2017, 03:50 PM   #26
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With no sealant ?? What will prevent any water from getting in between the bracket and the roof from the backside? This is not the way to do it, and should have been done with only sealant. That tape is only used to patch damage, and it also has to have it's edges sealed.
On our camper had similar brackets, just put a blob of dicoor lap sealant on my finger and packet it under the backside of the bracket.Pretty low tech bad thing in the summer that sealant is like chewing gum!Gets on everything.Happy Trails
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Old 04-06-2017, 06:38 AM   #27
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Wow

And all I really wanted to know is how long should the screws be into the roof to hold solar panels?
As stated earlier, I would contact Jayco with your VIN. They can get you the plans for your roof which will not only help with screw length but also where the structure is so that you can install your fasteners into something more substantial than just plywood.
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Old 04-06-2017, 03:05 PM   #28
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OK!!!!

Now that the sealant issue has been resolved..... I hope........

JP, I do not want to be the bad guy in this post, I think you may want to re think the perforated metal strips as a permanent mounting solution. If you look at the standard "Z" bracket below you will notice there is a lot of stability built into its design. They have a much larger footprint than the perforated metal strips (at both ends) and will not flex as the metal strips may do at 60mph, or even a major cross wind. The narrow metal strips will eventually shift or flex and that could cause the end of the metal strip to puncture the roof membrane. I would recommend either the standard "z" brackets or head to Amazon and pick up the adjustable height SOLAR panel brackets.

Just my thoughts

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Old 04-06-2017, 03:13 PM   #29
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Solar Wholesale - The REAL Cost Of Solar has a 265 watt kit for $271 plus shipping. It includes a PWM charge controller, cables, and connectors.

They are up the street from me.
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Old 04-06-2017, 04:04 PM   #30
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Solar Wholesale - The REAL Cost Of Solar has a 265 watt kit for $271 plus shipping. It includes a PWM charge controller, cables, and connectors.
My Jinko 265w panels are in their list on sale for $180. That's a pretty good deal.
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Old 04-06-2017, 08:25 PM   #31
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Lets keep the discussion civil please. From the forum rules


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Old 04-07-2017, 02:45 PM   #32
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OK!!!!

Now that the sealant issue has been resolved..... I hope........

JP, I do not want to be the bad guy in this post, I think you may want to re think the perforated metal strips as a permanent mounting solution. If you look at the standard "Z" bracket below you will notice there is a lot of stability built into its design. They have a much larger footprint than the perforated metal strips (at both ends) and will not flex as the metal strips may do at 60mph, or even a major cross wind. The narrow metal strips will eventually shift or flex and that could cause the end of the metal strip to puncture the roof membrane. I would recommend either the standard "z" brackets or head to Amazon and pick up the adjustable height SOLAR panel brackets.



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Hey Mustang-- I am not as arrogant as what's his name would have you believe-- I took your advice--- just as I took bansai and sealed the back.







Thanks Mustang!
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