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Old 11-07-2011, 08:05 PM   #21
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I always had Atwoods before so I don't know what to expect on the anode. I guess you just have to inspect it a few times a year.
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Old 11-12-2011, 10:58 AM   #22
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I drained my Suburban wh today mainly to inspect the anode. I quickly did not like the water running down the side of the rig so I devised a shield using a few 3/4 electrical conduit fittings. I flushed it out and only got minimum sludge. It has been in operation on and off for 4 months. I plan to re-install the anode and replace it in another 5-6 months.
Ours came with a hose/fitting to finish draining
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Old 11-12-2011, 02:10 PM   #23
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I always had Atwoods before so I don't know what to expect on the anode. I guess you just have to inspect it a few times a year.
Unless your water is really bad you will probably be good just cleaning it up when you winterize. The rod in our last trailer was six years old and it was still good.
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Old 11-13-2011, 04:42 PM   #24
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Anode rod vs. plastic plug.
I recently had it explained to me this way:

Atwood = Aluminum >> Plastic Plug
Suburban = Steel >> Anode

Recently I watched a YouTube vid on cleaning water heaters. The fellow presenting showed an anode that also had an integrated valve. Seems like an OK idea but I'd think removing the rod for periodic inspection would be a better idea. When they get about 50% consumed it's best to replace.

Mine is the 6gal Atwood and I have a couple of spare plugs in my parts bin. The weight of my parts bin may soon exceed that of the WD hardware.
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Old 11-14-2011, 08:00 AM   #25
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Ours came with a hose/fitting to finish draining
Thanks for the info. The bulb in my brain came on when I read your post. I have one also and thought it was for pulling anti-freeze into the system. Now I realize that it will just screw into the water heater drain/anode also.
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