Water pump died?????

sgilbert · 07-10-2016, 07:32 PM

2012 greyhawk, dry camped a couple of nights ago and everything worked fine. Last night we camped at a site with full hook up. Left this morning and noticed while on the road that we had no water pressure (did return the valves to normal position). Pump turns on and runs constantly. Looked at the filter in front of the pump and it looks good. Took the outlet hose off the pump and turned the pump on. Pump ran but no water. Also no air was felt when i place my finger over the pump output hole. Put that hose on and took the inlet hose off. Placed my finger over the inlet hole and felt no suction. Has to be a bad pump, right??????

Heady · 07-10-2016, 07:40 PM

Seems odd that the pump would go right after you used full hookups. Are you positive you set all of the valves back to the position to use the on board tanks? Check the outside water connection (where you attached the full hookup water hose) as there is a check valve in there that needs to close for proper functioning of the pump. Sometimes you need to gently poke the valve to get it to seat properly.

Robbbyr · 07-10-2016, 07:42 PM

I know you said you returned the valves to the proper position for tank/pump use, but can you verify that the valve stems actually moved and that the handle did not "slip" on the shaft of one valve? I had that happen once when the setscrew came loose and the handle would not properly indicate the true position of the valve.

Murff · 07-10-2016, 07:57 PM

Uh,,,

Does the fresh water tank have any water in it?

Murff

sgilbert · 07-10-2016, 08:33 PM

FW tank is completely full. Will check the set screws on the valve handles in the morning. Shouldn't I have felt suction on the pump when I put my finger over the intake or output?

edatlanta · 07-11-2016, 04:13 AM

My original pump failed suddenly last year. One day it worked, the next day it didn't. It had a small hole in the diaphragm. New pump solved the problem and being an upgraded one with slightly greater pressure and flow it was a better deal and easy to replace. Not that easy to get to, but easy to replace once it was exposed.

Seann45 · 07-11-2016, 06:50 AM

Did you try drawing water through the winterization hose? if that fails then you know you have a bad pump diaphragm.

silverark · 07-11-2016, 01:08 PM

I had the same thing happen to me. What I found was the internal check valve was stuck wide open. I removed the pump, removed the head and just touched the small button on the check valve and it popped back in place, reassembled the pump, reinstalled and worked fine. I did order a check valve repair kit just-in-case.

Flapper · 07-11-2016, 01:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sgilbert

FW tank is completely full. Will check the set screws on the valve handles in the morning. Shouldn't I have felt suction on the pump when I put my finger over the intake or output?

If the pump was totally dry, you may not feel any air. These are for liquids, and do a terrible job moving gases. Not until you can get enough liquid in the system to push on the air will you feel anything coming out.

See if you can "prime" it by loading up the intake side with water via filling the hose used for sucking antifreeze up. Fill the hose, and hold it up to keep the water in (and give the water a bit of gravity assist) with the open end in a container of water, while someone opens a faucet and turns on the pump. (set the valves correctly, for this, of course). Then fairly quickly if it sucks in the water, turn it off, and switch the valve over to pulling from the tank.

These pumps are supposedly "self-priming", but sometimes....of course, if it needs to be primed again, then it's time to look closer at the guts - check valves (if any), diaphragms, etc.

Jagiven · 07-11-2016, 01:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Seann45

Did you try drawing water through the winterization hose? if that fails then you know you have a bad pump diaphragm.

X2, make sure the winterizing valves are set correctly.

silverark · 07-11-2016, 02:06 PM

I noticed that if you connect the city water without using a pressure reducer and the pressure is too high, it will over extend the internal check valve spring causing it to stick. (my bad). Then if you use the fresh water tank and try pressurizing the system with the pump it will just run with out building pressure because the check valve is open and will not allow it to build pressure. The check valve replacement part # Shurflo Check Valve 4008 Pumps 94-800-03

sgilbert · 07-11-2016, 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flapper

If the pump was totally dry, you may not feel any air. These are for liquids, and do a terrible job moving gases. Not until you can get enough liquid in the system to push on the air will you feel anything coming out.

See if you can "prime" it by loading up the intake side with water via filling the hose used for sucking antifreeze up. Fill the hose, and hold it up to keep the water in (and give the water a bit of gravity assist) with the open end in a container of water, while someone opens a faucet and turns on the pump. (set the valves correctly, for this, of course). Then fairly quickly if it sucks in the water, turn it off, and switch the valve over to pulling from the tank.

These pumps are supposedly "self-priming", but sometimes....of course, if it needs to be primed again, then it's time to look closer at the guts - check valves (if any), diaphragms, etc.

Primed it and it's working so far. The grey hawk takes in antifreeze in the same location that you hook up city water. So, while connected to city water, I turned the valves to "winterize/sanitize" and turned the pump on til water came out of the faucet.

Thanks for the advice and everyone else's input!

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