Weboost plan foiled?

[madmaxmutt]

I am planning to use my Weboost Drive RV in the RV when stationary. I was planning to install a DC power supply in the truck, along with an internal and external antenna. In theory, I would move the booster to the connections in the truck, on long trips and through the mountains.

I had read about the issue with Ford aluminum body and the magnetic antennas. Watching the video from Wilson Electronics, I thought I could remove and re-install the external antenna, as needed. But, it seems they only provide one double sided sticky "tape" circle upon request.

I need to be able to remove and replace it because, the garage is literally 1/4" too low to enter with the magnet mount antenna installed. So, I asked Wilson if they had an antenna that I could simply unscrew to enter the garage. I got a verbal no, but they have not answered my written request. They gave me a very legaleaze answer when, I asked if there are third party antennas that would work.

Does anyone use a third party antenna with thier weboost? And, does that antenna separate from the mount itself (like any standard antenna)?

Thanks in advance for any ideas!

[madmaxmutt]

Because the magnet won't stick to the truck, and I have to be able to remove the antenna; my thought is to attach a fender washer to the roof of the truck, as Weboost wants me to attach the antenna. Then I could attach the magnet antenna, to the washer.

Do you think that would work? Would the Weboost double sided "tape" hold a washer?

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by madmaxmutt

Do you think that would work? Would the Weboost double sided "tape" hold a washer?

3M auto trim tape should.

[GABob]

I purchased a galvanized deck joining plate from Home Depot and plan to attach it to the top of the fridge vent cover. That way I can stick the magnetic antenna there and the run the cable down the side of the awning arm and then through the external fridge vent on the side of the RV. That will get the cable into the RV, now I just need to figure where I want to mount the box as I need to have access to power and want to have it close enough to plug it into the dash if my daughter needs it when traveling for school.

[madmaxmutt]

It seems my idea has Weboost's approval.

"We will be sending out the adhesive needed. We currently do not have a metal disc that can be used, but you are welcome to give it a try by possibly using an adhesive for the desk itself so that it is semi-permanently on your vehicle. I will send out two adhesives if you would like to give it a try. "

[madmaxmutt]

I started my dual installation, in the truck. Here is the wiring path.

I will use the Ford factory upfitter switch to power the Weboost 12VDC hardwire power supply in the truck.

Most every upfitter switch usage I found was for external devices, like light bars. I want the power from the switch to end up in the cab.

I chose switch 2:


Find the wire for switch 2, on the wires the label says relay 2. The wires are under the fuse box on the driver's side in the engine compartment. Just cut the original zip tie and they come loose. Gasser wires are probably on the passenger side, which would be easier...


Because, I want the power in the cab, and the pass-through wires to the cab are on the passenger side:

A closer look at the 5 pass-through wires:


Those 5 wires end up underneath the glove box in the cab. Remove the two push pins and the panel comes out. I used this bolt here to ground the hardwire power supply in the console:


More to follow:

[madmaxmutt]

I need to be able to remove the external antenna (as stated above), so I started making my "magnetic mount". Just a simple washer that I sprayed Ford Magnetic Gray to match the truck.




Once I get the adhesive disc from Wilson Electronics, I will semi-permanently attach the washer to truck.

Then this will attach to the washer when needed in the truck:


More to follow

[madmaxmutt]

Fused wire from the power supply cut off for under hood installation in wire loom.

Upfitter switch side is fused with the provided Weboost power supply fuse:


Loomed the wire over to the pass-through to get into the cab:




The pass through wires on both sides are extremely short. Ford probably saved $0.15 by supplying too short wires....

Power supply wired from pass-through (and ground) to the console side, where the Weboost booster will sit when in the truck.


More to follow

[madmaxmutt]

I ran the interior antenna cable along with the power supply wire to the console. It is the second wire in the last picture.

The antenna will velcro to the dash when needed. During the rest of the time, it will sit in the glove box. The wire is run under the plate below the glove box and through the console side to the Weboost booster location.


More to follow

[jbrnigan]

I'm not sure where you need to mount you magnetic antenna so....... I mounted a 5" x 1/8" diameter steel disc to my aluminum, tri fold tonneau cover, using nutserts. It serves as the mounting point for my CB antenna.

[madmaxmutt]

Originally Posted by jbrnigan

I'm not sure where you need to mount you magnetic antenna so....... I mounted a 5" x 1/8" diameter steel disc to my aluminum, tri fold tonneau cover, using nutserts. It serves as the mounting point for my CB antenna.

Pulling a fifth wheel, so it pretty much has to be on the truck roof.

[madmaxmutt]

Phone Signal inside the garage:


External antenna ferrous metal attachment point (AKA a washer) installed using Weboost provided (You have to ask for it, and they send it for free) adhesive:


Antenna attached to the washer:

It might look better, if it were centered on the roof. But, the provided antenna cable barely reaches the booster from the second rib indent.

Antenna cable pressed behind rubber trim and run behind hard plastic trim:


Weboost Installed with the Upffitter switch turned off:


More to follow

[madmaxmutt]

Upfitter switch turned on, and solid green light, yay!


Significant signal strength improvement (24dBm):


Success!

Trailer install to follow

[Pancho]

I used a small square of galvanized metal, cut to the shape of the antenna base, used 3m tape and wally, works fine.
P.S.: this was on the roof of a motor home, but the flat roof of a car/ruck should be the same.


Good Luck.

[Blackey]

Use it to stick a steel disc to mount the magnetic antenna to that way the disc is always hangs. But either way yoou are getting a no ground plane setup for your info and you might want to check if a ground plane is required for your antenna.

My Motorhome uses a no ground plane cb radio setup my t.ruck uses a gp setup and my Jeep I believe might be a Nagpur setUp but I’m not sure.

True each group of waves for each type of antenna is totally different like cell phone, grms, forms, ham etc so before mounting your antenna to a roof check if is steel or aluminum. Same with trunk and front hood the antenna might need steel and if you have aluminum if so do your research to find an antenna for situation and some it might not matter usually receivers only situation.

[madmaxmutt]

Originally Posted by Blackey

Use it to stick a steel disc to mount the magnetic antenna to that way the disc is always hangs. But either way yoou are getting a no ground plane setup for your info and you might want to check if a ground plane is required for your antenna.

My Motorhome uses a no ground plane cb radio setup my t.ruck uses a gp setup and my Jeep I believe might be a Nagpur setUp but I’m not sure.

True each group of waves for each type of antenna is totally different like cell phone, grms, forms, ham etc so before mounting your antenna to a roof check if is steel or aluminum. Same with trunk and front hood the antenna might need steel and if you have aluminum if so do your research to find an antenna for situation and some it might not matter usually receivers only situation.

Already done.

The two Weboost options for cars/trucks I looked at are both ground plane independent.

[Riverman]

You might consider the new WeBoost Drive Reach RV booster and trucker antenna for maximum range.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AgHkvdevMUI