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Old 09-02-2015, 08:03 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike837go View Post
Putting some 'worst case scenario' thoughts together....


Is the cover designed to fail? Rip loose? Open when excessive force is applied? Or does the cord fail? And where?
The cover is designed to easily fail.. even if it wasn't thousands of pounds of RV pulling on the cord would rip it out of the socket..
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Old 09-02-2015, 09:15 AM   #22
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In my younger, dumber days, I failed to apply a lock on the hitch after hooking up. Hit a deep rut in the road, and the trailer came off the ball. I did have the safety chains crossed, so the trailer dropped down on the chains. Slowly slowed down to a stop. Worst that happened was a need to change clothing at once! Thirty years later, and I have never forgot to lock hitch in place, when hooking up.
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Old 09-02-2015, 12:14 PM   #23
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A couple years ago coming home from a trip, on the interstate, the traffic was going slow, at one point. I passed a TT on the shoulder. Couple of guys were looking at the hitch. The tongue was sitting on the chains.

Last spring, I was hooking up. Everything hooked up right, but something seamed a bit off, after having the equalizer bars on. I fully unhooked, and when I did I found the ball was not properly seated in the socket. Glad I took the time to figure out why, verse jumping in and going.
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Old 09-02-2015, 05:20 PM   #24
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When moving a ball, use a new lock nut

We had a ball mounted on the bumper of a Ford Ranger for fourteen years. When it was replaced with a 2012 Tacoma, I moved the ball but never thought to use a new split lock washer. Bad oversight.

A year after we bought the Tacoma we put the Honda Shadow on a Kendon bike trailer and pulled it to Pennsylvania for a week of touring. The roads in Maryland and DC were so rough, the nut on the ball apparently vibrated loose and fell off on our return trip to N.C. When we hit a really bad bump, the ball popped completely out of the hitch.

The trailer tongue slammed into the pavement at 70 mph. We immediately got onto the shoulder. The safety cable kept the trailer behind us and it didn't flip. The only damage was some scraped paint and frayed wiring harness on the underside of the trailer tongue. After a side trip to the local Pep Boys for a new ball --- AND a new lock washer --- we resumed our trip.

So, if you ever move a ball to a different hitch, splurge and spend an extra quarter on a new lock washer. I certainly will.
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Old 09-02-2015, 05:49 PM   #25
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Someone on another RVing forum I frequent posted some very disconcerting photos. The hitch on their tow vehicle was all rusted out -- not just surface rust, but crumble-in-your-hand rust. Fortunately, they caught it before it failed, and replace it. They posted it as a PSA reminder for everyone to take the occasional look at theirs.
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Old 09-02-2015, 06:03 PM   #26
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wires

In the unlikely event of the trailer completely disconnecting from the tow vehicle, either the wires will strip out of the connector or strip out of the trailer. I saw a trailer where this happened a few years back, where it was in an accident and flipped over on its side and stripped all the wiring out of the trailer side clean. The tow vehicle ended up under the "Y" hitch of the trailer off the ground, but still connected. Trailer ball snapped off and hitch torn. This was back in the 1970's.
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Old 09-03-2015, 08:31 AM   #27
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The worst thing you can do is worry about "The worst that can happen". It is good to be overly cautious and do everything you can to make traveling safe for you and everyone around you. BUT, what ever you do, DO NOT Google your trucks hitch problems. I did this right before leaving for a 10 hour drive over 2 Colorado passes. I have a Chevy Silverado- a brand who has a history of bad hitches apparently. Chains won't save you in this particular situation when the welds of the hitch completely fail. I scared the snot out of myself and was petrified the entire 10 hour drive. Now, I check my hitch and components several times on every road trip to make sure it is secure, take a deep breath, say a prayer, and hope for the best. (I also replaced the bolts in the WDH to stronger ones after the manufacture recommended it- someone I know had them fail too).

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Old 09-03-2015, 09:13 AM   #28
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I have a buddy whose OEM bumper hitch pulled loose on a Chevy. Left him in a lurch until it could be replaced.

Inspect the welds and rust.
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Old 09-03-2015, 09:34 AM   #29
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I check all the time- luckily, mine was manufactured long after these happened, so I hope they figured it out. I still check it though- I figure everyone should.
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Old 09-03-2015, 10:24 AM   #30
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I saw these alarming photos right after buying my 2500HD Silverado and replaced the OEM hitch before ever pulling my trailer. Not worth the worry.

Anyone want to buy a brand new OEM hitch for a 2005-2007 Chevy 2500?
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Old 09-03-2015, 12:02 PM   #31
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Metal creep is also an issue. During recent hitching/unhitching, I noticed movement between my hitchhead and dropbar. I had tightened these with gusto a couple years ago during my last hitch adjustment, so I didn't expect them to come loose.

I spent a buck or so on new grade 8 split washers, got in my best weight-lifter stance and re-tightened those nuts. No movement now. I need to check the ball nut, but I don't have a socket big enough.

Make sure you all check hitch bolts (with a wrench) periodically.

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Old 09-03-2015, 02:04 PM   #32
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I was hit from behind in a rear end accident earlier this year, damaging a brand new after market hitch I had just installed. I made sure that both the insurance company and the body shop knew about it. The insurance company said it's up tot the body shop to inspect it to see if it needed replacing, but they would approve it if necessary. It did need replacing, and the body shop was just going to throw a stock GM 5,000 lb hitch on there. Nope, says I. Check the sticker. That's a brand new 6,000 lb hitch. I want nothing less than what I have. They had to call around until they found one. The idea of towing with a potentially damaged hitch is enough to give me the willies.
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