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Old 10-21-2011, 09:32 AM   #1
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Winterization question...

True story ... in my last two pop ups, I could "winterize" by lung power. Just blow the water out of the lines. Worked every time

But with the Swift, there is a bit more plumbing.... If is set up nicely from Jayco for easy winterization. Bypassing the the water heater = easy, draining the water heater = easy, bypassing the water tank to the inlet valve for anti-freeze fluid (the stuff made for RVs) = easy.

My question, should one gallon be enough do you think? My lack of experience in true winterizing leaves me with no idea of how much fluid it should take with this small travel trailer.
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Old 10-21-2011, 09:38 AM   #2
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Not sure about the Swift but it takes me about 2 gallons. I add some to the p-traps and also the holding tanks which accounts for some of it. Its only about 4 bucks a gallon. I would get 2 gallons to be sure. It won`t spoil if you do not use it all anyway (I think)!
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Old 10-21-2011, 09:54 AM   #3
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I can do my JayFlight 22FB with one gal. Like Crabman said buy 2 to be safe. Or just blow the lines out with an air compressor.
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Old 10-21-2011, 10:01 AM   #4
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Here is the air method.

RV Winterizing….Blowing Out the Lines Method.

You will need an air compressor or some source of air with an air hose.
An air hose chuck.
Compressed air adapter. (blowout plug)
And less then a gal. of RV antifreeze.

1. Drain fresh water tank, close valve.
2. Drain hot water heater replace drain plug.
3. Dump and (flush if possible) both black and gray water holding tanks, leave gray water valve open.
4. Turn the pump on and open a faucet to run the pump dry. Turn pump off.
5. Screw compressed air adapter into the fresh water inlet. The adapter is available from Camping World or most RV dealers.
6. Apply compressed air, keeping the pressure at 30 PSI but less than 40 PSI. You may need someone to hold the air hose on the adapter.
7. Open then close each faucet, hot and cold, one valve at a time, allowing the compressed air to force the water out of the line. Don't forget the shower and toilet and outside shower. Remove and replace the ice maker hose on the outside if equipped. Open both low point drains and close.
8. Remove the drain plug from the hot water tank and allow the compressed air to blow out the remaining water. Reinstall drain plug.
9. Remove the compressed air source and adapter.
10. Close gray tank valve.
11. Pour a few cups of RV antifreeze down each drain and toilet.
12. You’re done.
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Old 10-21-2011, 04:51 PM   #5
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This might work in smaller units but to get all the water out of the lines is tough in larger rigs. I have a rats nest of pex in my basement. With all the loops and such some seem to backfill once the air is removed. I can see it in there with the pex. I run the air then do the pink through it all with exception that I run the heater bypass after blowing out as listed above. There's enough space in the bottom of the tank to allow for expansion if a little skim ice freezes so no need to treat. For the extra $8.00 it costs me NBD.

Don't forget to blow the black tank sprayers if you have them!!I made up a rig using a 2FT hose section that I fill with pink then blow it in the spray line to ensure it's treated.
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Old 10-22-2011, 12:47 PM   #6
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So here's the outcome for the 365BHS.
1. Blew out the lines.
2. Blew out the hot water heater.
3. Switched the valves to winterize/sanitize.
4. Pumped some pink into the hot water tank til it started to trickle out the drain plug.
5. Switched to bypass and filled the lines.
6. Turned on all faucets and toilets one by one untill pink just came out.
7. Blew out the lines again to fill the traps and clear the lines.
8. Blew out the black washes with air.
9. Filled the hoses with 3 oz of pink and pushed through with air.
10. Opened all low points once again.
11. Dumped what was left in the 5 gallon pail in each trap to be sure.

I know some don't put the pink through the lines but if you fill them then push it back out with air you virtually use the same amount as just filling traps with the confidence that you got all the water out. Also disconnect your shower hoses and just run the faucets.

Shower in and out, 3 sinks, 2 toilets, 2 black tank sprayers, 1 outside faucet and hot water tank bottom all for 3 gallons, not bad.

Bought a case of 6 for $2.99 ea so now I have 3 left over for next year.
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Old 10-23-2011, 08:24 PM   #7
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We use 2 gallons. At the price it's worth it not to skimp.
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Old 10-28-2011, 01:05 PM   #8
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Drain your propane lines too... light the stove top burner go outside and turn off the propane.. when the flame inside has died out shut off the burner.... this will prevent the additives in the propane from gumming up the lines and valves.
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Old 10-28-2011, 03:48 PM   #9
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That is an interesting point you bring up Seann - have not thought about that much.

Are there any type of rust or corrosion inhibitors in LP? I wonder if allowing not having gas inside the iron pipe will allow more rust to form and thus clogging things up potentially when you fire back up.

I dont know the answer, but would be curious to hear.
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Old 10-28-2011, 04:45 PM   #10
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We had a Prowler travel trailer for 13 years and would just shut the tanks off. Never had any propane problems. Our neighbor now has that trailer and all he does is shut off the tanks. He has had it for 6 years now so it is close to 20 years old.
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