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12-26-2020, 02:47 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
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Wiring a 3rd water pump switch
I have 2 water pump switches on my 2019 Redhawk 25R. 1 at main panel and one in the outside shower. I would like to wire a 3rd in the bathroom, but I think the relay is all the way up front by the main switch/panel. The water pump is is located on the rear of my rig, right next to the bathroom under my bed, I can easily run wires from a new switch in the bathroom to the pump. If I did this I would have to make sure the new switch is always opposite the other 2. Would this cause an issue if I did it this way? I’m looking for a simple solution.
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12-26-2020, 02:58 PM
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#2
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There is no relay unkess something has changed. Each switch just goes to the positive side of the pump.
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12-26-2020, 03:02 PM
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#3
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Location: Minnesota
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It really depends on how the relay system works (if you have one). I would expect each switch is tied back to a master relay, located?? probably near the water pump. Do you have a schematic of how the switches and the pump are wired together? If there is no relay, it would be easy enough to add one.
This video might give you some insight.
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12-26-2020, 03:14 PM
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#4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagiven
, it would be easy enough to add one.
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You don't need one.... No rig I have owned since 77 that had multiple switches had a relay.
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12-26-2020, 05:21 PM
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#5
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Well if there’s no relay that means both switches I have are three-way switches, like in a house, that would mean changing the two old switches to a four-way and finding a 3rd
four-way switch, which again, I’m not sure about any of this. But I will look further into it and try and find a schematic. Any other further recommendations appreciated.
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12-26-2020, 05:34 PM
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#6
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I am a little confused. Is this not an on-demand water pump that turns on and off automatically when you open a tap? You shouldn't need to control it with a switch.
We just turn our switch on at the beginning of a trip and off at the end. Unless you have a leak or bad pump, it should not be constantly having to build pressure back up. It may give a pulse every once in a long while.
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Jim
Retired electronic technician (45 years in the field)
2017 Greyhawk 29W (solar & many other mods)
wife (maybe I should have given her top billing)
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12-26-2020, 05:34 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnynorthland
Well if there’s no relay that means both switches I have are three-way switches, like in a house,.
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Pull the switch and look at it, I really doubt it is a 3 way. If it is a lighted switch it will only have 3 wires, positive in/out and ground. If you turn the main panel switch on does the shower switch turn it off? That is how to check.
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12-26-2020, 05:41 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumpy
Pull the switch and look at it, I really doubt it is a 3 way. If it is a lighted switch it will only have 3 wires, positive in/out and ground. If you turn the main panel switch on does the shower switch turn it off? That is how to check.
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Thanks Grumpy, yes, the shower switch goes off if the interior switch is activated and Vice versa, they work like 3 ways. I haven’t pulled the switch out yet.
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12-26-2020, 05:42 PM
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#9
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And switches aren’t lighted, but they both have indicator lights above them.
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12-26-2020, 05:48 PM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnynorthland
Thanks Grumpy, yes, the shower switch goes off if the interior switch is activated and Vice versa, they work like 3 ways. I haven’t pulled the switch out yet.
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Then they have made changes on how they are wired. Our 2001, 2008 and 2015 didn't function that way. If I left the outside pump switch on and then went to the one in the main panel it did nothing and vice versa. If one was on the other did not turn the pump off.
Why do they complicate things?????
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12-26-2020, 05:53 PM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimD
I am a little confused. Is this not an on-demand water pump that turns on and off automatically when you open a tap? You shouldn't need to control it with a switch.
We just turn our switch on at the beginning of a trip and off at the end. Unless you have a leak or bad pump, it should not be constantly having to build pressure back up. It may give a pulse every once in a long while.
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Thanks Jim. Yes, it’s on demand, however, it’s switched. I’m making my trek back to south florida from NE PA end of January. I will be disconnected at night and when temps drop below freezing. I don’t want my pump on constantly over night pressurizing my lines. I’ve had a freeze over in the past, but I’m now well prepared. I insulated/wrapped and heater coiled all my exposed water lines, heated my wet bay compartment and drains but don’t want to Chance anything. When I, or DW get up in the middle of the night, (usually 2-3 times, TMI?), I want a switch on the pump from the Lou!
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12-26-2020, 05:56 PM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumpy
Then they have made changes on how they are wired. Our 2001, 2008 and 2015 didn't function that way. If I left the outside pump switch on and then went to the one in the main panel it did nothing and vice versa. If one was on the other did not turn the pump off.
Why do they complicate things?????
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I will tell you I find the outside switch very convenient when breaking down, packing up and hooking up, switching the pump switch off/on and not having to go inside or yell to my wife.
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12-26-2020, 06:02 PM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnynorthland
I will tell you I find the outside switch very convenient when breaking down, packing up and hooking up, switching the pump switch off/on and not having to go inside or yell to my wife.
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I could do that, but the inside switches would not turn the pump off if I had the outside switch on.
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12-26-2020, 07:32 PM
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#14
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Adding a 3rd switch would probably require fishing new wiring through the rig. Sounds like a pain. Here is a quick alternative.
If there is a source of constant 12 volts in the vicinity of the pump, you could install a RF relay so the link to the bathroom would be wireless. The receiver's 12 volt output could be piggy backed with the positive water pump wire. If you want to isolate each feed you could install a blocking diode on each positive wire feeding the pump. That would prevent one feed from interacting with the other.
I used the same setup on my rig to allow the chassis battery to be charged when my house battery was being charged but only when I wanted it to happen. I hooked the receiver's output to the under hood relay that connects the batteries together. Put a blocking diode in the feed from the ignition switch so as not to feed 12 volts back upstream when I activated my relay. It works like a champ!
The only drawback is you would have to remember to press the off button on the RF relay remote when done in the bathroom.
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Jim
Retired electronic technician (45 years in the field)
2017 Greyhawk 29W (solar & many other mods)
wife (maybe I should have given her top billing)
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12-29-2020, 05:06 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Gilmer, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnynorthland
Well if there’s no relay that means both switches I have are three-way switches, like in a house, that would mean changing the two old switches to a four-way and finding a 3rd
four-way switch, which again, I’m not sure about any of this. But I will look further into it and try and find a schematic. Any other further recommendations appreciated.
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You will only need one 4way switch if you actually have 3-way switchs now . You wire the 4-way in the " traveler " line between the existing 2switchs .
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12-29-2020, 09:14 AM
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#16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poohbear
You will only need one 4way switch if you actually have 3-way switchs now . You wire the 4-way in the " traveler " line between the existing 2switchs .
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Thanks Poobear, and everyone else. I will try and get to this in a few weeks and report back on what I found and what I did.
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