Air brake tie in - Seneca

[MD3]

Looking for guidance on where to tie into the air brake system on a Seneca to use a Roadmaster Brakemaster 9160 supplemental brake for towing my Jeep.

I have found a couple different manifolds above the rear axle with plugged ports.
I’m just not sure how to identify which one I need to tie into.

Wondering if anyone has done this and has pictures vs me just guessing on the different air ports available ?


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[Crossingover]

Suggest you have this done professionally by a qualified Freightliner facility. You don't want to potentially compromise the safety of the compressed air system.

[MD3]

I might have to take it in but Roadmaster was pretty convincing that this is a DIY kinda project.
The instructions are very clear but they lack vehicle specific air hook up.

I’d be really surprised is someone with a Sceneca isn’t already running an air brake setup. Hopefully someone can help out with a picture or two.


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[Crossingover]

Gotcha. It should be ok to tap into one of the unused manifold ports. What size tubing are you running to your air brake?

You’d be the first on this forum that I’m a aware of who would do this. Others have tapped into the air system for an air horn is all I’ve read about. Although I really don’t need one other than to stay legal, I use a Brake Buddy simply because I already had it with previous rig and it’s a simple no-mods approach. Not as convenient as yours for sure, but certainly not inconvenient either.

[MD3]

The air line that comes with the kit is 1/4”.
It looks like a nice little setup and I like the looks and ideas of the break away brake kit that comes with it.
Instructions look super simple just really want to make sure the RV air line tie in is correct.

Also found a great price on it.

I usually trailer but I’ve found we are looking at more places to go where a trailer just doesn’t fit.

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[JohnAZ]

This thread is kinda stale but it asked the question I had. On my 18.5 Seneca, which has ABS, it looks a little complicated but once you locate the right or left air relay valve there is an unused port so you only need the basic brass 1/2" pipe thread to 1/4" compression adapter fitting to make the connection. I chose the right relay valve because there was less interference getting to the spare port. Removing the plug requires a 3/8" allen wrench or 3/8 hex socket. I used gas rated teflon tape on the adapter male threads, and leak tested all connections on the RV and F150 toad.

I was a little skeptical about the tubing size but it is very responsive.