Broken/beat-up coupler

bearcat77 · 12-15-2016, 09:40 PM

Just picked up a new 2017 Jayflight 27BHS yesterday. The coupler refuses to release the hitch ball. The coupler looks like it's been beat to heck with a hammer. I have never owned or towed any type of trailer before. I called a friend over who drives trucks for a living. We tried every position up and down on the tongue jack and tried moving the tow vehicle a hair forward and backward. Had to disconnect the hitch from the truck and leave it dangling from the coupler. Still can't free it. Is this a relatively common thing, or do we need to seriously consider if this is even a trailer we want to keep? From what I see online, sounds like some lubrication and a few blows from a hammer could free it, but should I really have to do this on a brand new trailer? Dealer is sending a service person out, so I'd like to know what kind of attitude I should have going into this conversation. I've already told them don't send somebody out here thinking they are going to smack it with a hammer and say "problem solved". Thanks for the advice.

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BigJohnD · 12-15-2016, 10:22 PM

Sounds like some pb blaster spray and a lot of working it is in order. Never seen a new one stuck that bad.

Tunce the traveler · 12-15-2016, 10:58 PM

Mine is 6 years old and doesn't look like that, it's faded but not beat up.

Gman1372 · 12-16-2016, 06:09 AM

My coupler gets stuck too. Sometimes lifting the TV up 3" before releasing.

rkresge · 12-16-2016, 07:30 AM

I've learned the hard way that the trailer must be lowered as far as it will go on the ball before you can release the coupler's latch. After releasing the latch - and you have to slide it back and up until it stays there - THEN you raise the trailer until it clears the ball.

And a new hitch/coupler usually needs tender loving care, e.g. lubrication, so some WD40 sprayed up into the coupler assembly probably wouldn't hurt at this stage of the game.

Which does not explain the condition of the coupler. That thing looks like it's had the crap beat out of it. Looks like it was attacked by someone who didn't know how it works. Is that really the way it came from the dealer???? Wow!

Roger

Marcm157 · 12-16-2016, 07:37 AM

It appears that this is not the first time this has happened based on the beat up look of the coupler. I'd say that whoever transported / moved that trailer prior to you buying it had the same issue. Did the coupler look like that during your PDI?

Jagiven · 12-16-2016, 07:41 AM

I have heard of issues with new couplers. Usually old dry couples won't release. I would start by spraying a light oil into the couple assembly. Once free, I would lube the ball with bearing grease, and work it into the coupler.

nisbitch · 12-16-2016, 07:42 AM

I also have a 2017 27BHS and it is horrible for getting the ball out of the coupler. Mine wasn't beat up, but I have to move the TV forward or back and almost raise the back tires off the ground to get it to release. Friend figured it might just take some time and wear to loosen it up. I lubricate the ball and it doesn't help. Hopefully someone has a fix for this.

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bearcat77 · 12-16-2016, 07:44 AM

Yes, it looked like this when we got it. We were overwhelmed by all the info we were bombarded with at the demo, so didn't ask about it. Just assumed that's what it was supposed to look like or dealer would have said something. It didn't inspire a lot of faith in us that someone who does this for a living (either Jayco deliverer or dealer service tech) had to beat the crap out of it to get it to work. Seems like they should know the right way to do it. So that means somebody like me, who knows nothing, is going to be screwed someday when this thing acts up again out who knows where.

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Marcm157 · 12-16-2016, 08:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bearcat77

Yes, it looked like this when we got it. We were overwhelmed by all the info we were bombarded with at the demo, so didn't ask about it. Just assumed that's what it was supposed to look like or dealer would have said something. It didn't inspire a lot of faith in us that someone who does this for a living (either Jayco deliverer or dealer service tech) had to beat the crap out of it to get it to work. Seems like they should know the right way to do it. So that means somebody like me, who knows nothing, is going to be screwed someday when this thing acts up again out who knows where.

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Sadly it looks like the dealer knew there was an issue and took advantage of the fact that you were new to towing.

rkresge · 12-16-2016, 08:09 AM

I'm going to repeat my advice, based on my own hard-won experience. These (to me) newer couplers REQUIRE that you lower the trailer onto the ball as far as it will go. THEN you can release the latch. You absolutely cannot release the coupler's latch if the trailer is pulling up on the ball at all.

I'd be tempted to think that your coupler was attacked by someone who had not learned that lesson yet. Older-style couplers did not require you to lower the trailer's weight onto the ball, or at least not as much.

I say hard-won experience, because I spent an entire hour trying to unhook my brand new TT at our first campsite and still couldn't get it unhooked. Finally called my dealer, and they graciously walked me though the process. No problems since.

Roger

mike837go · 12-16-2016, 08:17 AM

I'm of the opinion that the coupler is defective. The evidence of repeated hammer blows shows that someone connected with the factory, shipper or dealer already had issues with the coupler.

Since this is a new unit, my advice would be to start a warrantee claim.

That coupler has to be cut off and new (properly operating one) welded on.

Grumpy · 12-16-2016, 08:42 AM

Could be an excessive amount of "powder coat" up inside. Had that with a tow dolly, used my Dremel tool and ground it out. Never a problem after that.

bzeller · 12-16-2016, 08:54 AM

Bearcat77, have you looked under the coupler to see if the underjaw is releasing when you move the latch? If it's not releasing, that is your problem and no one should be trying to pound it out. That mechanism will need to be fixed to function properly and remove the ball. If the underjaw is releasing then I'd venture a guess you have a very tight coupler housing or poor quality ball and some modifications will be in order.

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bearcat77 · 12-16-2016, 09:02 AM

Is the underjaw the black piece that wedges under the ball? If so, it is right against the hitch ball and does not move whatsoever no matter how hard you lift and tug on the latch. We tried every position from 2" higher than relaxed shocks on tow vehicle, all the way down to full tongue on weight on tow vehicle. No give in the coupler at all. If it needs a new coupler, do I trust them to cut and weld a new one on? Makes me nervous to create a new weak point in the frame? Do I just stand firm that I paid for a brand new perfectly functional travel trailer, and that's what they need to get me?

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bzeller · 12-16-2016, 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bearcat77

Is the underjaw the black piece that wedges under the ball? If so, it is right against the hitch ball and does not move whatsoever no matter how hard you lift and tug on the latch. We tried every position from 2" higher than relaxed shocks on tow vehicle, all the way down to full tongue on weight on tow vehicle. No give in the coupler at all. If it needs a new coupler, do I trust them to cut and weld a new one on? Makes me nervous to create a new weak point in the frame? Do I just stand firm that I paid for a brand new perfectly functional travel trailer, and that's what they need to get me?

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Yes that is the underjaw. If it is not releasing when you move the coupler latch on top, that is ur problem. With the coupler latch moved to the release position, have you tried taking a large screw driver, place it on the lip of the underjaw and giving it a good tap to get it to release? Might be worth a shot. I don't think they'll need to cut and weld. That mechanism should be replaceable.

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Marcm157 · 12-16-2016, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mike837go

I'm of the opinion that the coupler is defective. The evidence of repeated hammer blows shows that someone connected with the factory, shipper or dealer already had issues with the coupler.

Since this is a new unit, my advice would be to start a warrantee claim.

That coupler has to be cut off and new (properly operating one) welded on.

^^^^^This^^^^^

Start the warranty process and get it replaced.

bearcat77 · 12-16-2016, 11:26 AM

So the service guy came out and got it right off. (So he says. He did it before he came to the door to let me know he was there). I hooked it up and unhooked it a couple times, and seems to be working as intended. Their opinion is that the coupler is absolutely fine. I still don't like the fact that someone who supposedly knows what they were doing, had to beat it up so bad. I guess I keep it for now, keep playing with it, and if it happens again, then demand a new one?

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Gman1372 · 12-16-2016, 11:40 AM

If you went over the whole process with the guy and feel comfortable with its function, then leave it. Chips in the paint can be wire wheeled and repainted easily.

Camper_bob · 12-16-2016, 11:42 AM

From the pic, where the hammer blows are on the coupler release, that's a problem ENGAGING the coupler. That release should be pushed down in the front and then slid toward the rear to release. Don't know if that's clear or not, but it's not like other/older coupler releases that you just rock forward and it opens.

Did the tech demonstrate it's functionality to you in front of your eyes before he left? It seems that's how it went down from your description, but just want to clarify.

ETA: FWIW, I had to tap my coupler release a few times with a hammer (gently of course) to get it to release, but since I've used it often and I keep grease in there and on the ball, I haven't had trouble with that in years. And I agree, these couplers are finicky with weight; if you have any weight at all pulling down on the ball, you're not getting it undone.

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